When Too Change ( Cap, Rotor, Wires, And Plugs)

[c3po]

I have a small block chevy on my 1983 Chevrolet El Camino with 364,000 miles.

1) Cap and Rotor have been on there for 45,000 miles.
2) Spark Plug wires have been on there 25,000 miles
3) Spark Plugs have been on there 15,000 miles.

The wires look good, I do not know how too test them. I guess with the plugs I can pull them out too look at the electrodes.

As far as a cap and rotor any ideas as to when they need to be changed. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[OVERKILL]

Wires are tested with an ohm meter.

 

[c3po]

This ohm meter, is this something I can pick up at CarQuest or NAPA.

 

[OVERKILL]

Yup, any decent multimeter does ohms.

 

[c3po]

Thanks Overkill, is this multimeter something that a mechanic wannabee like myself can use.

You don't have to be a rocket scientist, right.

 

[OVERKILL]

Yup, you'll have no problem with it

 

[duaneb9729]

go to radio shack for your multi meter, start off with a cheapie till you get the hand of using it, you will find it hand for working on the house hold wiring also

 

[TallPaul]

Would not another test be to see if the wires are leaking, typically watch for sparks when engine running in the dark?

 

[c3po]

Tallpaul, that might be a good idea, I will have too try that tomorow night.

 

[andyd]

Ohming out plug wires only tells you that the wire will conduct. If the isulation is shot, the juice heading for the plugs leaks out. Mist some water onto the wires, if the engine starts to miss, replace them. If the terminals on the cap and rotor are brass, they prolly will be ok for a while longer. If they are Aluminum, replace the cap and rotor with a better one. Brass terminals.

 

[mechtech2]

The rotors go out and leaks straight through. The car will not start, or will stop suddenly.
Always get a premium rotor - heavy duty - pay a few bucks more -name brand - get the best.
So I would get that part anyway.
You can clean the internal terminals on the cap - this part will probably be good. Check for cracks or carbon tracking.
You probably have plain steel spark plugs in there. File the electrode faces flat, and regap them, or get new ones [always check the gap].
Wires? It could go either way. Start shopping for a good deal. Visually inspect them for burn marks. You can run the car at night, and spray mist water to test for bad components. You will see arcing.
But there are absolute no rules for mileage for these parts.

 

[c3po]

mechtech2, thanks for your advice. I do have aquestion about spark plug heat range.

Since I run headers on the car I am using shorty plugs, are

1) Platinum plugs the best way too go
2) Is it important to stay with the stock heat range in a spark plug.

The reason I ask this is because I do not know much about heat range in a spark plug. My car is speced for a R45 type plug, so I would guess the 45 number is the heat range.

Since my car has 364,000 miles on it and the only emissions device is the PCV on it, there is no longer a computer on the car.

I have:

a) Davis Unified Ignition, using there Distributor
b) non emission Quadrajet
c) non emission intake manifold
d) Timing is set to stock specs

Any advantage or disadvantage too running a hot or cold plug, I am going too call Jegs and see what they have, because CarQuest had a Autolite Shorty Plug which was a Autolite R13 and I am not sure of the heat range.

 

[TallPaul]

Plugs are low enough cost that if you are bothering to pull them, might as well replace them.

 

[OVERKILL]

AC Delco makes shorter marine plugs as well which should be available in the same heat range.

 

[c3po]

Overkill, where can I get these AC Delco short marine plugs.

 

[OVERKILL]

Any jobber that stocks Delco plugs.