New reg's fro 4 stroke oil (FC-W)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: irv
What exactly has to be in it to classify it as FC-W? Thanks..........Irv


Irv,

FC-W certification adds a salt fog test. A conventional HDEO should still suffice for most mainstream marine apps.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: irv
What exactly has to be in it to classify it as FC-W? Thanks..........Irv


Irv,

FC-W certification adds a salt fog test. A conventional HDEO should still suffice for most mainstream marine apps.


Excuse my ignorance but what exactly does HDEO stand for? Also the salt fog test? Would that only be applicable if one was running in salt waters, not fresh waters? Thanks........Irv
 
Salt fog test is an accelerated corrosion test which can be applied to any material exposed to wet environment. This is why FC-W would have (more) corrosion inhibitor as I mentioned.
 
Originally Posted By: Brett Miller
If I had a 4 stroke outboard, the only oil I would consider would be Amsoil 4 stroke outboard.

I don't have good luck running amsoil in anything I own!
My truck consumed it like crazy(250kms=1 half litre)My atv, no matter how short of a run it seemed would also consume it.
My sled drank the injector oil like it was going out of style and to this day still does and it never did before I tried the injector oil?
I still use amsoil grease and gearlube but sometimes I ask myself why?
If I knew for a fact that I would not consume Amsoil in my outboard more than any other oil, then I would give it another try, but to be honest I don't want to take the chance! It is pricey and I don't trust it period!.........Irv
 
I'm used to conventional inboards and I/Os when dealing with marine powertrains. There, conventional HDEOs have been the norm for decades. The bugaboo of traditional marine enviroments is not thermal loads, but shearing and chemical ones that result in dilution and vis thinning.

But OBs can be another kettle of fish. If yours is an OB, you may need to be more specific about it to get a reliable opinion. Some later OBs are high strung machines and require a synthetic.

While I don't use it, Amsoil is very good oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
I'm used to conventional inboards and I/Os when dealing with marine powertrains. There, conventional HDEOs have been the norm for decades. The bugaboo of traditional marine enviroments is not thermal loads, but shearing and chemical ones that result in dilution and vis thinning.

But OBs can be another kettle of fish. If yours is an OB, you may need to be more specific about it to get a reliable opinion. Some later OBs are high strung machines and require a synthetic.

While I don't use it, Amsoil is very good oil.


My outboard is an 07 90hp Merc 4 stroke, the warranty will be up next year that is why I was looking at running a synthetic like Mobil-1.
I have heard the Merc oils are quality oils but imo they are way overpriced!! I wish there was some sort of comparison between Merc oils and others on the market,(more than one) just to see how it rated against some other types of marine oils?
I know Amsoil is good oil, some people swear by it and don't have any consumption issues, but personally I don't have good luck with it, and it gets expensive real fast when your constantly having to add it! I can't understand why I (and lots of others) consume it when I (and lots of others) don't consume a different type of synthetic like Mobil-1, Castrol, Rotella T etc. I just don't get it?.........Irv
 
If the manual is recommending the standard Quicksilver 25w-40 brew, then you will do fine with a straight 30 or 15w-40 HDEO. I don't know if I'd run a 40 up your way at the fringes of the season. Check your manual.

If the manual is recommending a synthetic (which is unusual for Mercury Marine), then stick with a synthetic. Otherwise, I don't find much advantage to running synthetic oils on the water except for competition events.

In any event, I would look to oils that can put up with significant fuel and/or moisture contamination. That tends to exclude some higher ester formulas. Conventional HDEOs are comparatively robust under these conditions, which is why they have had proven success over the years. Other good choices are conventional and semi-synthetic racing grades in the correct viscosity.

Generally speaking, I try to stick with low spread multivis or straight weights, as the shearing loads are fairly intense in a marine environment. Coupled with the unusual dilution and other contamination loads, viscosity endurance becomes very important. If your O/B is calling for a hot vis 30 or higher, you may want to avoid the 5 and 10w multigrades - they may not hold up as well. But again, check your manual for recommended vis.

While I'm very cutting edge with our cars, I'm still old school with marine oils. YMMV.
 
Originally Posted By: irv
Any idea who Mercury is refering too in this statement(lower bottom) They say a "popular competitor" 15W-50 oil?


Probably M1 15w-50, which was a good oil on the water.

Oil is cheap compared to marine engines. So if it makes you feel better to pay extra for the Mercury oils, go for it.
 
FC-w rating?

My 4str was built before any FC-w rating was ever thought of. My owner's manual suggest 10w-30, 10w-40 API SJ.

So make a long story short, that is what I use.

Top end synthetic?
In a naturally aspirated 4str OB, why?
Change the oil and filter at the recommended interval using the recommended rated oil, and you will be fine. Conventional, name brand, generic, closeout, it will all do the job.

Now if you got more money than you know what to do with. You can spend upwards of $8 a quart for Amsoil, or $6-7 for Mobil 1. Presently I have Wally World Super Tech Full Synthetic 10w-30, purchased for $15 for 5 quarts. Manufactor's oil- come on. How many of you go to the auto dealership and by the auto make brand of oil? What makes Mercury or Yamaha or Honda or Suzuki oil better than say Pennsoil, QS, Havoline, Castrol, or even Valvoline? They can't void your warranty for not using their oil.

Another very simple idea to ponder. Just how many oil related failures have any of you seen in naturally aspirated 4str OBs? Me I ain't never even heard of 1.

Maybe because I am not using FC-w in my 2003 model F-115 Yamaha is gonna retroactively blow up.
 
The other thing I wonder is: What factory does Mercury Marine get their oil from.

Numerous OE fluids for cars come in a bottle that looks exactly like Exxon Superflo. Ford puts their name on ConocoPhillips products. Certain GM products are relabeled Petro Canada products.

I'm sure Mercury Marine is buying a common product from a major manufacturer, and then putting it in containers with "Mercury Marine" written on them, and then sold as a special product.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I'm sure Mercury Marine is buying a common product from a major manufacturer, and then putting it in containers with "Mercury Marine" written on them, and then sold as a special product.


Mercury changed blenders a few years ago. I used to know who it is, but I don't use the stuff and forget. I'm sure someone else will chime in with the ID.

Quicksilver is decent oil. A lot of boaters run it because it's "safe". But it's not as good as Rotella or Delo for what Mercury asks for it. A major label HDEO 15w-40 or straight 30 does most engines just fine. Most of the go-fasts I know do not run Quicksilver; Valvoline racing and the aforementioned M1 15w-50 are popular.
 
Gold Eagle used to make some/many of Mercury oils.
The new blender is a mystery even to many Merc employees.
I've tried to find out who makes their oil filters, but so far,
no one is talking.
Bummer!
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: irv
Any idea who Mercury is refering too in this statement(lower bottom) They say a "popular competitor" 15W-50 oil?


Probably M1 15w-50, which was a good oil on the water.

Oil is cheap compared to marine engines. So if it makes you feel better to pay extra for the Mercury oils, go for it.


That's just it, I don't want to spend what Merc wants! I want an oil that will do the job just as well or better and not have to pay approx a 300% mark-up!
I wrote the NMMA and asked if I wasn't running in salt water then would Mobil-1 of the right weights/viscositys not be good enough?
A main tech asked "why I would want to run anything other than an FC-W oil that Merc recommended"? He completely dodges my questions and that was all he stated. I questioned why Mobil-1 didn't make the grade yet Amsoil, with the consumption issues did?. I think I will dig into running Rotella T, I just wish their website was working so I could find out what would be the best?
Also, do you not find it ironic that this new FC-W classification is for engine oil and nothing new has changed as far as gear oil and that is the piece of equipment that would more than likely have any sort of water infiltration??......Irv
 
Originally Posted By: twentynine
FC-w rating?

My 4str was built before any FC-w rating was ever thought of. My owner's manual suggest 10w-30, 10w-40 API SJ.


Que? Do you have a four stroke 1950s outboard?
If you have a four stroke outboard there WAS certainly a FC-W rating present AND your manual will likely have a statement about it or a req to use only the manufacturer's brand oil.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
Oil for small 2010 Yamaha 4-stroke 4HP outboard?
Replies
10
Views
2K
Warlord
Oilblivion
  • Locked
Oil Types, High Mileage Motor Oils, and Ideal Oil Change Intervals
Replies
12
Views
5K
M56959
cammyfive79
2013 Acura TL SH-AWD w/ 31k miles overkill new owner maintenance - Amsoil Signature 5W20 and Amsoil filter?
2 3
Replies
46
Views
4K
cammyfive79
S
Thinking of using this oil in a passenger car... Amalie XLO Ultimate Synthetic Blend 15W-40
Replies
5
Views
3K
SureshR
D
6th Gen Camaro LT1 Oil - Lots of Confusion
2
Replies
21
Views
9K
LDM
Back
Top