What exactly happens when people just start their car and take off like theres no tomorrow?? Millions of people do it everyday, not waiting until their oil/engine is at NOT... can things get damaged? does the excessive viscosity of the oil provide any protection?
driving hard/high RPMs on cold engine/oil??
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Man I wouldn't ever recommend it....but see it all the time.....I always wait just a few seconds.....I'm talking 10-15 secs here is all....let the engine oil pressure come up at idle....get the oil out of the pan and where it needs to be before I ever put it into gear.....
wow 10-15??
i feel really bad gassing up past 4k for like 10 minutes!!
i feel really bad gassing up past 4k for like 10 minutes!!
I ain't talking about at the tree...staging man
I'm talking about driving out of the grocery store parking lot...hahahahahaha
4K and dump the GTO and you'll be running 1.5 second 60's
I'm talking about driving out of the grocery store parking lot...hahahahahaha
4K and dump the GTO and you'll be running 1.5 second 60's
I don't remember ever reading anything that suggest it is a good idea. Modern engines tend to be close to idiot proof. Perhaps this is how Lubeowner finds so many filters with distorted and torn media. All the moving parts are going to be covered with cold, thick oil. For an existing, static oil film, surely, thicker has to be better. Add to that fairly fast flow ramp up from no thicker than 10W-30, factory fill maybe? I am no 20W-50 fan, but I credit those that are, to have the brains not to WOT when the starter has hardly stoped turning. So how do you spot the victims at the used car lot?
My routine is start the engine, fasten my seat belt, and gently drive away. With 5W-30 dino, I am sure I have good flow before I ask much of the engine.
My routine is start the engine, fasten my seat belt, and gently drive away. With 5W-30 dino, I am sure I have good flow before I ask much of the engine.
haha.. i gotcha! it kinda sucks, the exit from my work is rigth across a major freeway exit and all these punks take advantage of my sheepish cold engine driving
thinking i'm too chicken to give her a little go. sheesh i sound like i'm in highschool
maybe not so bad in the warmer climates, but what about -20*? I remember once being in such a hurry i started a car and driving away almost instantly (10sec? maybe) in -25* dead-of-winter night and the pistons made really unhappy knocking noises as soon as i applied gas. No idea what kind of oil was in there, prolly 10w-30 dino (good ol Mom) but i cringed and threw it in Neutral and warmed it u a bit more on the side of the road.. ic ant imagine 5500 or 7000 rpm in room temp oil
I watch my engines vital signs very closely....
Just let it idle and build up pressure for a few seconds.......If you have the proper viscosity in the pan...your good to go....todays oils coat much better than we had years ago.....
Just let it idle and build up pressure for a few seconds.......If you have the proper viscosity in the pan...your good to go....todays oils coat much better than we had years ago.....
I have about a mile of residential streets that I drive very slowly and carefully as a good neighbor before I get to a road that is up to 40 mph then another mile before I can hit 50 then another mile before I can hit 65. Usually my vehicles are fairly warmed up before I put a load on them. I can't pull out and take off like a bat out of **** without breaking the law.
I turn up the coals on one of the vehicles alittle sooner than the others But the average temp is warm and it is garage kept.
I turn up the coals on one of the vehicles alittle sooner than the others But the average temp is warm and it is garage kept.
JHZR2
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It amazes me how many idiots are in sucha rush in the morning that they drive their cars as hard as they can as soon as they start it up.
And people wonder why their cars dont last very long... why they need service at 60k, why they need a lot of money put into their cars when theyre a few years old... And I wonder why peoples' cars dont last more than 100k before having something major happen.
In fact, most of these idiots get rid of their cars every 3-5 years, and so never see an issue. Then someone else gets a used car that had poor treatment in its last life... They wonder why their used car, they bought to save a few dollars that they didnt have, is such a money pit.
IMO, these drivers are why Hyundai does so well. People who dont have many $$$ are afraid of what they get in used cars, because so many drive like this. So they get a better value car, which will be better for them long term.
JMH
And people wonder why their cars dont last very long... why they need service at 60k, why they need a lot of money put into their cars when theyre a few years old... And I wonder why peoples' cars dont last more than 100k before having something major happen.
In fact, most of these idiots get rid of their cars every 3-5 years, and so never see an issue. Then someone else gets a used car that had poor treatment in its last life... They wonder why their used car, they bought to save a few dollars that they didnt have, is such a money pit.
IMO, these drivers are why Hyundai does so well. People who dont have many $$$ are afraid of what they get in used cars, because so many drive like this. So they get a better value car, which will be better for them long term.
JMH
I'm not sure if theis applies to this or not, but I've twisted the oil pump drive shaft on big block Ford 390's and 428's drag racing them before the engine was fully up to temp. I was running 120 lbs plus in oil pressure cold, around 100 lbs hot.
Proplems stopped when I would get the engine up to temp before spiking it real good, also switched to 10w-30, was using a straight 50 weight before. Now it runs about 100 lbs cold and about 80 hot.
Proplems stopped when I would get the engine up to temp before spiking it real good, also switched to 10w-30, was using a straight 50 weight before. Now it runs about 100 lbs cold and about 80 hot.
I'm not a mechanic but you'd have to assume that running the guts out of a motor before the oil is flowing well to all moving parts is a bad thing. Maybe this is one reason 5w20 is posting such good UOA's, it flows better in the first few minutes of operation.
Pressure it up, +100F or -40F (warm it good -40 too)
I get kick out of people's use of vehicles at parking lots as I am waiting. People load shopping goods, putt around, put seat belt on and last second turn key and drive off with no oil pressure cold after hours of sitting in cold.
I was at ski hill one day, I was warming my cummins diesel up in -30 C, I saw on guy walk up to his diesel that sat all day, he loaded all his kids skis, and seat belted kids all in. He then turned his key and put that thing in drive in 1/10th second and roared out. Sent shivers up my spine. This is why I dont buy second hand if I can afford not to.
Cyprs
I get kick out of people's use of vehicles at parking lots as I am waiting. People load shopping goods, putt around, put seat belt on and last second turn key and drive off with no oil pressure cold after hours of sitting in cold.
I was at ski hill one day, I was warming my cummins diesel up in -30 C, I saw on guy walk up to his diesel that sat all day, he loaded all his kids skis, and seat belted kids all in. He then turned his key and put that thing in drive in 1/10th second and roared out. Sent shivers up my spine. This is why I dont buy second hand if I can afford not to.
Cyprs
My dad used to do this for years on his 1989 Benz. Turn on, shift in gear and floor it. Whats worse is that on startup the car would automatically rev itself up to about 3k rpm.
But the car still runs strong.
But the car still runs strong.
I can't remember where I read this, but it said 30 seconds is all you need to warm it up. Unless it's freezing, then give it a little more time. But, the article said that 30 seconds is plenty of time to get the oil up and flowing, and anything more was just a waste of gas. That's what I do in the morning, start it up, put my son in his car seat, buckle him in, etc.. and by then I'm ready to go. Same with the wife, she starts the Explorer up, puts her briefcase in the back and what not, then she gets in and takes off. I had to get on her about that in the past
lol.
i have a question for u guys i have a 96 grand am with a 3.1 v6 3 times this winter when it about 0 degrees i remote started my pontiac and it wen,t to 3700rpm right away this happened 3 times first 2 times i did not realize it and it ran for 10 min this way i had 1030 mobil synthetic blend in it do u thing i caused any damage car still runs okay but the tempertature gauge registered real hot after 10 min and i think i overheated the converter i never use the remote start anymore
Extremely rapid warmup probably causes more mechanical shear stress on those leak-prone intake gaskets on the 3100
Seriously though, the engine shouldn't have any problem whatsoever running for days at 3700rpm if the cooling system can keep up appropriately. Since the car still runs, obviously the valves or other components weren't damaged, so I do not believe you have anything to worry about, standard 3100-coolant ingress issues aside.
When you think about it, try climbing something like Beartooth Pass in Montana/Wyoming on your way into Yellowstone National Park from the northeast entrance. If you climb the pass (which tops out at an elevation of 11,000 feet I believe) at any decent speed, the engine will run at 3700rpm under load for a heck of a lot more time than 10 minutes. And no, your engine won't be damaged there either unless the cooling system has been chronically neglected.
I had a roommate in college that got a new head on his Toyota Supra (and '86 I think) at 25K miles. He used to run it to the red line out of the parking lot. I used to watch the revs climb as the oil pressure needle was barely above 0.
At around the same time I had an oil light go out in my '78 VW Rabbit. The mechanic on the phone said wait a few minutes with the engine idling and oil would eventually get thrown out of the valve cover oil fill. It took about 2 minutes which he said was normal (so the oil light sensor had failed, not the oiling).
Even small engines have a few feet of narrow passages for oil to fill. Pressure is measured at the pump output, at the beginning of the oil's journey. Its common sense to give it a chance to circulate.
I generally wait at least 30 seconds before driving away gently on a cold engine.
At around the same time I had an oil light go out in my '78 VW Rabbit. The mechanic on the phone said wait a few minutes with the engine idling and oil would eventually get thrown out of the valve cover oil fill. It took about 2 minutes which he said was normal (so the oil light sensor had failed, not the oiling).
Even small engines have a few feet of narrow passages for oil to fill. Pressure is measured at the pump output, at the beginning of the oil's journey. Its common sense to give it a chance to circulate.
I generally wait at least 30 seconds before driving away gently on a cold engine.
I start the engine, wait 10-30 seconds before driving off, and then drive very gently until the coolant is up to temperature. I then continue to drive gently until the oil hits 180°, then I free myself to drive however I want.
When I didn't have an oil temp gauge, I would wait until 5 minutes after the coolant warmed up before letting myself gun it. Doing it that way, my oil would be around 150°-160°. Probably didn't hurt anything. Knowing what I know now, if I had no oil temp gauge, I'd wait about 8 minutes after the coolant warmed up before driving hard.
When I didn't have an oil temp gauge, I would wait until 5 minutes after the coolant warmed up before letting myself gun it. Doing it that way, my oil would be around 150°-160°. Probably didn't hurt anything. Knowing what I know now, if I had no oil temp gauge, I'd wait about 8 minutes after the coolant warmed up before driving hard.
On a related subject, do I understand correctly that the new Nissan 4.0 SUVs / pickups with manual trans have a clutch-interlock-defeat switch, so you can use the starter to get the vehicle moving against, say, a rock, instead of slipping the clutch? IE, the starter moves things along and the engine fires as the revs come up enough... Just the thought of what this means for oiling could probably induce chest pain in some BITOGers...
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