Heavy Nitrous competition BBC

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MrBigBlock

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I don't even know where to start, i got many many questions.
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Here it goes, I have a 525 tall deck stock truck block BBC. it's set up for nitrous use
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specs are as follows:

main bearing clearance .0025 - .0028
rod bearing clearance .0030 - .0032

pump gas compression (93 all day)
4340 dragon slayer crank
eagle H beam rods
Diamond 2618 forged custom pistons
hellfire top ring total seal second ring
solid roller comp endure-x pressure fed roller lifters.
I am going to spray the world at it. 300-550+

we just got it off the engine dyno last week i ran 20-50 rottella T. CJ-4 rating...(recommended by my engine builder) we only made a motor passes on it as i did not have the spray hooked up in time and working.
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the oil temp got up to 215-250+- degrees after each pull. Oil pressure at a cold idle was at 70 psi. Hot idle came down to 38+- psi when we got the RPM's upstairs it leveled off around 78-83 psi. this is with a blocked bypass and i run a Pure Power reusable oil filter.

i am looking to run the car in a 10.0 cap bracket race. What oil can i run on when I'm on motor only racing. looking for an oil that will create less windage than the thicker 20-50 but don't know what viscosity i can use? And what should i run when i am going to use the nitrous?? the nitrous thing is new to me so i decided ot go big or go home.
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i put the bearing clearances in here so some of the analytical guys and gals can make the right recommendation
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i am also wondering about shear and oil breakdown at higher rpms... 6,500-7,500 is the viscosity changing.... (just going off of what Joe Gibbs says on his website.)

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/trainingcenter/082106.html

what is Centistokes?

I am not concerned with the price of oil. I see it as a cheep insurance and do not want to skimp.

Sorry for the long post and being new and all, but this seems like a super site
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For motor only racing, I would use Redline 10w40 for your app.

As for No2 I am not sure about to much. I would think Redline would give you the best protection when useing No2 aswell.

550+ Shot of Nitrous!! you should really go to a speed shop, or a performance mechanic and talk things over long and good.

Perhaps Royal purples XPR line would work?


My buddy has a 06 chevy cobalt 2.4L with aftermarket pistons, rods, completely new aftermarket valvetrain, bearings, stage two cams, cam gears, light weight pullies, full exhaust, intake, and a 75 shot of wet.
Nothing compared to you. but this is his daily driver, and his week end warrior. He goes through 10 lbs of Nitrous a week. He runs either royal purple or Penzzoil platnium 5w20 with great results.
 
I think I'd probably look into a Redline product. Amsoil also has a newer line of racing oils.

However, that much nitrous, a 500+ big block and you're looking at 10 second times. Must be a heavy car which also means a little more fuel dilution to get the load rolling. You're kinda caught in a trap between resisting fuel dilution and reducing windage drag.

30-40 or 50 wt oils, depending on the engine builders comfort zone. Your pressure will probably stay more consistent with the synthetic.

Either Amsoil or Redline have a lot of following in drag racing with Redline being a little more high profile in the sport.
 
Redline makes a 70wt racing oil specifically designed for the Nitrous user. Dont know if that is too thick, but might be something to look into.
 
straight 40 or 20w-50 then go from there . those are kinda the normal to loose eng of the drag racing clearances I used to like a bit tighter but it doesn't matter . That puppy will scream.
 
Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Redline makes a 70wt racing oil specifically designed for the Nitrous user. Dont know if that is too thick, but might be something to look into.
Nitrous or nitro?There is a difference.
 
generally that big of an engine the clearences you have are not too loose, you mentioned you have gapless rings wich help keep the oil clean, do you have a vacuum pump? do you have a crank scraper? what is your piston to wall clearence and your quench clearence? I dont like to use 20w50 in drag race engines due to the fact that most passes are done with cooler oil temps and 20w50 does not flow well when cold. there is plenty of lighter weight racing oils that will fit the bill much better than 20w50.
many super stock engines use very light weight oils for max HP and they have no lubrication issues. now if you could only get Warren Johnson to share his thought's LOL!
I have always used 10w40, now that I have 3 new styles to choose from I will be trying 10w30 racing blend.
I have seen many dyno pulls @ Mesa Balacing with BBC using str8 40 weight shell oil also, usually just for break in.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Redline makes a 70wt racing oil specifically designed for the Nitrous user. Dont know if that is too thick, but might be something to look into.
Nitrous or nitro?There is a difference.


Nitro ... My mistake. Regardless one of the redline straight wt race oils might be of benefit for your application.
 
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Shop over by my work builds NMCA BBC motors they use Valvoline Racing 20W50 in them.

Theirs also Roush Valvoline race oils, perhaps their 10W40 or SAE40 oil could work for you. Havn't seen a UOA from any roush oils yet.

a buddy of mine races an outlaw SS 406ci 18 degree motor, he runs mobil1 syn 10W30.
 
I wouldn't use a syn oil .Dino oil would promote oil changes due to the blowby it takes lot of gas to feed the engine whin Ntirous is sprayed.
 
Originally Posted By: lazaro
generally that big of an engine the clearences you have are not too loose, you mentioned you have gapless rings wich help keep the oil clean, do you have a vacuum pump? do you have a crank scraper? what is your piston to wall clearence and your quench clearence? I dont like to use 20w50 in drag race engines due to the fact that most passes are done with cooler oil temps and 20w50 does not flow well when cold. there is plenty of lighter weight racing oils that will fit the bill much better than 20w50.
many super stock engines use very light weight oils for max HP and they have no lubrication issues. now if you could only get Warren Johnson to share his thought's LOL!
I have always used 10w40, now that I have 3 new styles to choose from I will be trying 10w30 racing blend.
I have seen many dyno pulls @ Mesa Balacing with BBC using str8 40 weight shell oil also, usually just for break in.


Quench is .040 kinda tight.... for a big hit. Piston to cylinder i don't know? I am thinking of running a vacuum pump many have told me to run one but the engine guy said i wouldn't need to...... but i disagree. Yes i have a diamond crank scrapper.
i was thinking that the 20-50 was too thick especially if i pull it off the trailer and to the line with minimal time to warm the engine.



Originally Posted By: mpersell
I think I'd probably look into a Redline product. Amsoil also has a newer line of racing oils.

However, that much nitrous, a 500+ big block and you're looking at 10 second times. Must be a heavy car which also means a little more fuel dilution to get the load rolling. You're kinda caught in a trap between resisting fuel dilution and reducing windage drag.

30-40 or 50 wt oils, depending on the engine builders comfort zone. Your pressure will probably stay more consistent with the synthetic.

Either Amsoil or Redline have a lot of following in drag racing with Redline being a little more high profile in the sport.


10's on straight motor, i don't know what it will run on the spray.
 
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So for motor only operation the consensus seems to be:

Redline 10W-40
Royal Purple 5W-30
or a 10W-30 of some kind

Oil for nitrous use is still in question.

But at least i can toy around with it and tune it on motor before i get the nitrous plumed.
 
Why do you have the oil bypass valve blocked? Heavy oil + cold morning + blocked bypass = possible blown oil filter. If your engine builder is firm about the bypass being blocked, invest in some good racing oil filters.

Centistokes are a unit of measure for viscosity, as are centipoise.

In my opinion, your bearing clearances are beyond 30W territory for a race engine; especially with any amount of fuel dilution. Given the extreme cylinder pressures that will be created by your intended dose of nitrous, a good x-40w or x-50w would be better.

When you are considering oils for your application, look at the high temperature high shear viscosity numbers for comparison. Making an occasional pass is one thing, but if you get into an elimination making back to back passes your oil is going to be HOT.
 
Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
Why do you have the oil bypass valve blocked? Heavy oil + cold morning + blocked bypass = possible blown oil filter. If your engine builder is firm about the bypass being blocked, invest in some good racing oil filters.

Centistokes are a unit of measure for viscosity, as are centipoise.

In my opinion, your bearing clearances are beyond 30W territory for a race engine; especially with any amount of fuel dilution. Given the extreme cylinder pressures that will be created by your intended dose of nitrous, a good x-40w or x-50w would be better.

When you are considering oils for your application, look at the high temperature high shear viscosity numbers for comparison. Making an occasional pass is one thing, but if you get into an elimination making back to back passes your oil is going to be HOT.






I have a pure power oil filter.
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Pure Power!

Ok i looked into red line oil, on this chart where is the sheer number? Chart

I do like how redline uses a Polyolester for there synthetic base stock.

Thanks for explaining Centistokes. i am looking at red line and royal purple to compare sheer and centistrokes. How is sheer measured?
 
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
If no-one's mentioned it, what about Amsoil straight 60-weight racing oil?

as big and bad to the bone this guy's engine is, 60 weight is not the prefered choice for that engine, 60 weight is for track only nitro burning max effort applications.
Amsoil has 3 new racing specific oils wich are better suited for the application in question, 5w20/10w30/15w50 Dominator oils.
any of those oils I would feel safe using.
big block chevies are not known for any oiling system failures.
there are known for trashing oil in short order due to the fact they produce sick amounts of repeatable horsepower
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so it would be safe to say cheap mineral oil wont be a wise choice in this guy's engine. I have seen alot of spun bearings on BBC using valvoline racing oils, these are in boats with multiple engines.
funny thing is nobody has any definite answers when the engine goes south and needs fixing, boat engines are not cheap to rebuild, 540ci cost around $15,000 why skimp on oils? I will never know why the guys I know trust valvoline engine after engine? LOL LOL
 
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