Cartridge versus spin on

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Hi,
My 2007 Mazda3 2.3l has the cartridge filter on the bottom of the engine. Many folks I know have done the spin on conversion. It has crossed my mind, but for various reasons, I have not yet done it.

Any thoughts on this?
 
I prefer cartridges. Less waste, and the can often be cleaner.

I especially prefer cartridges mounted on the top of the engines, which is quite smart, IMO.
 
My CX 7 has the same cartridge as the Mazda 3. The first time I changed it, I found it to be more of a hassle with the new O-rings and more manipulation required. After several changes, I now find it easer but, it still takes about 10 minutes longer to change than a spin-on. I do like the fact that it is considerably more environmentally friendly. I will not change over to a spin-on. I think we are not getting the full value as the cartridge costs about the same ( dealer cost or major brand). I pay about $5.25 for a Wix cartridge and $5.15 for a wix spin-on. The cartridge type alsos allows me to visually inspect the filter media for engine or filter problems, without the need to cut the canned filter apart.
 
Good points. I've been using the Motorcraft filter, at WM, for about $3.50. For my 5k changes, it works well, and seems to hold up nicely.
 
I have the 2.3L in my Fusion and find the cartridge changes easy. I've done about five on my car since I've had it.

A time saver for me is not removing the small o-ring every time. I don't use the small plug, so why do I have to change that ring out every time?

Honestly, I like the cartridge for most of the reasons above. Less waste, I can view the filter and I have an abundance of quality filters that I got for low sale prices (K&N, Pure Ones, etc).
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I don't really see a benefit to switching to a cartridge. it will also void your warranty on the engine.


I'm assuming you meant spin-on rather than cartridge. His Mazda/Ford 2.3 came with a cartridge filter.

I agree...stick with the cartridge.
 
I like everything about the well placed cartridge filter on my Cavalier Ecotec except the filter price. I paid the dealer $8 for the first one. I picked up a Purlator one at at AAP recently for $2.50. I can change oil without ramps now.
 
^ If that were the case on the Fusion/Mazda, it wouldn't be bad either. However, the cartridge filter is located underneath. You first have to get out your 10mm wrench to remove some bolts for the plastic shield. You then have to locate your special cap filter wrench to remove the plactic cap. Upon loosening, quickly grab your pan, because oil starts dripping/pouring all over -- and on the main bottom engine shield. Before you put everything back on, you now have dirty oil all over the filter cap -- which you must clean off. This also assumes you didn't actually remove the oil filter plug (another source of potential metal-->plastic thread failure). I had my Fusion for 1.5 years, and never removed the oil filter drain plug. Make sure to grab your torque wrench, and set it to 20 ft-lbs before tightening the plastic cap.

Overall, "cartridge" was just a pain compared to any other vehicles I've owned (many). Had I kept the Fusion longer, I would have swapped to spin-on. Yes -- cartridge is better for the environment, and it's nice to be able to see the filter media. It's typically not more expensive, but to me, it's a pain. There's much more to clean, and more potential for problems (in this application).
 
Originally Posted By: kkreit01
^ If that were the case on the Fusion/Mazda, it wouldn't be bad either. However, the cartridge filter is located underneath. You first have to get out your 10mm wrench to remove some bolts for the plastic shield.


My 2.3L Fusion doesn't have a shield to remove.

Originally Posted By: kkreit01
^ You then have to locate your special cap filter wrench to remove the plactic cap.


Yes, it's called getting the tools before you begin a job. I don't see how that's a difficult task. I suppose getting a funnel is difficult too?

Originally Posted By: kkreit01
Upon loosening, quickly grab your pan, because oil starts dripping/pouring all over -- and on the main bottom engine shield.


No shield.

Originally Posted By: kkreit01
Before you put everything back on, you now have dirty oil all over the filter cap -- which you must clean off. This also assumes you didn't actually remove the oil filter plug (another source of potential metal-->plastic thread failure). I had my Fusion for 1.5 years, and never removed the oil filter drain plug. Make sure to grab your torque wrench, and set it to 20 ft-lbs before tightening the plastic cap.


So, don't overtighten? Check...you still run the risk of overtightening a metal cannister. Then, if you can't get the spin on off because you tightened it too much, you have to "locate" an oil filter wrench. Too many needed steps.

Honestly, it's not as hard as people make it out...plus the cartridge is on the bottom, in this case, and none of my engine components get dirtied up from the oil. Remove cap/cartridge, replace cartridge/o-ring, remove drain plug. Put cap on, replace drain plug and fill. Does it take a few extra minutes? Maybe...but I've done about five of them and I have it down pretty good. In the end, the benefits outweigh the costs...at least to me.
 
I thought cartridges would be a nice idea, until I changed the one on my wife's Avalon. I'd love to meet the genius who decided to stick it on the bottom of the engine. Two caps, two sets of O-rings, and you still have to be on your back anyway. I'd much, much rather have a spin-on for this car, or have it mounted up top like some other designs.

Labman: great to see you back, don't be such a stranger!
cheers3.gif
 
so if the spin ons had an anti drain-back valve do these cartridge setups have a similar internal setup that never wears out? I have an 09 Corolla with a cartridge, just wondering how it all works.
 
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
so if the spin ons had an anti drain-back valve do these cartridge setups have a similar internal setup that never wears out? I have an 09 Corolla with a cartridge, just wondering how it all works.


I understand that GM engines all have anti-drainback built-in, even in the spin-on designs. I could be wrong, but I remember reading this somewhere.
 
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: kkreit01
^ If that were the case on the Fusion/Mazda, it wouldn't be bad either. However, the cartridge filter is located underneath. You first have to get out your 10mm wrench to remove some bolts for the plastic shield.


My 2.3L Fusion doesn't have a shield to remove.

Originally Posted By: kkreit01
^ You then have to locate your special cap filter wrench to remove the plactic cap.


Yes, it's called getting the tools before you begin a job. I don't see how that's a difficult task. I suppose getting a funnel is difficult too?

Originally Posted By: kkreit01
Upon loosening, quickly grab your pan, because oil starts dripping/pouring all over -- and on the main bottom engine shield.


No shield.

Originally Posted By: kkreit01
Before you put everything back on, you now have dirty oil all over the filter cap -- which you must clean off. This also assumes you didn't actually remove the oil filter plug (another source of potential metal-->plastic thread failure). I had my Fusion for 1.5 years, and never removed the oil filter drain plug. Make sure to grab your torque wrench, and set it to 20 ft-lbs before tightening the plastic cap.


So, don't overtighten? Check...you still run the risk of overtightening a metal cannister. Then, if you can't get the spin on off because you tightened it too much, you have to "locate" an oil filter wrench. Too many needed steps.

Honestly, it's not as hard as people make it out...plus the cartridge is on the bottom, in this case, and none of my engine components get dirtied up from the oil. Remove cap/cartridge, replace cartridge/o-ring, remove drain plug. Put cap on, replace drain plug and fill. Does it take a few extra minutes? Maybe...but I've done about five of them and I have it down pretty good. In the end, the benefits outweigh the costs...at least to me.



You're right -- it's not that hard. It was actually easier than I expected after reading all the horror stories. For me, it was just a pain compared to spin-on. Yes, a pain for selfesh reasons. I never had any issues, and I used all the correct tools. What year is your Fusion? Did you buy it new? I thought they all had a shield on the bottom? It would be much better without it, but I assuming it helps for airflow -- gas mileage.
 
I like the cartridge in my saturn ecotec, and the misses sunfire.

The filters were going up and up in price. I found a deal on amazon a few months ago, and bought a dozen filters for something like 1.75 each..

Six oil changes for each car, should last a while.
 
Originally Posted By: kkreit01
You're right -- it's not that hard. It was actually easier than I expected after reading all the horror stories. For me, it was just a pain compared to spin-on. Yes, a pain for selfesh reasons. I never had any issues, and I used all the correct tools. What year is your Fusion? Did you buy it new? I thought they all had a shield on the bottom? It would be much better without it, but I assuming it helps for airflow -- gas mileage.


I have an 06 manual. I just hear too many people getting worried about the cartridge change and it's not that difficult. I certainly wouldn't spend 45. for the kit to swap it over knowing that it's really not difficult.

Apparently not all of them have the shield. Perhaps it's a year thing? What year was yours?
 
Since oil runs down the filter with spin-ons, I just treat the cartridge / canister on my Mazda the same way and just remove it without messing with the drain bolt. It's one less o-ring to worry about.

The most important aspect about this job is to use the right tools and to not over-torque the canister. The parts guy at ElDorado Mazda told me of some horror stories where people are attempting to loosen / tighten the canister with pump pliers. You can imagine what happened.
 
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