Look at doing a Bypass on my 6.0, Q's...

[Toy4x4runner]

Finally really looking hard a getting a bypass filter for my 6.0. I understand how bypass systems work and all the basic stuff. I just have some questions about the differences in the kits out there and brands.

I like how the Amsoil kit is all mounted up top and dumps the oil in the fill tube. I like how the FS2500 uses cartridges, not a full filter. But I don't like how it returns the oil back to the drain plug... off-roading that scares me. And I'm planing on continuing running 15-40 Motorcraft or Delvac dino oil. I just want to keep the oil as clean as possible.

What's the pro/cons to the oil plug return? any cons of dumping it back in the fill tube? I rather keep my OEM filter cap though to be honest.. yes it's plastic, but it's OEM!

I guess my ideal kit would steal oil from the pressure port near the filter housing, and return it to the fill tube. Is it finanically worth piecing together a kit of my own?

 

[deeter16317]

You can interchange the feed and return lines from any setup with any filter...I run a filler cap return (Amsoil) on my Gulf Coast.

I personally like returning to the filler cap (buy a Stant, they are solid) because you can see flow and measure the rate.

 

[Toy4x4runner]

buy a stant? a what now? Are you saying buy a stant aftermarket filler cap and drill/tap it?

I was looking around, I think the FS2500 kit has changed. they now dump back into the filler tube side. But mounting it on the frame rail behind skid plate is FAR. that's some long hoses... like to keep things simple stupid. closer the better, less chances for a hose to get rubbed, burned etc.

but I like the filler tube return b/c like you said, monitor flow. so you know when to change the element and save money. b/c if it's 100% clogged, the truck will live. you just lose your bypass filtering.

 

[deeter16317]

My GCF is mounted under the bed on my truck...use hydraulic hose with at least one braid (they will take a LOT of abuse). You also only need to run a 1/4" line...even at nearly 15 feet, mine still flows an easy quart/minute. If you can route the hoses out of harms way (like inside the frame rails), the length means nothing. Mine are well above the frame rails, and its been there for over a year now. I have not had any flow issues, even at temps approaching -15*F with conventional oils.

Make sure you buy weather-resistant hose as the unmarked stuff will deteriorate (even hydraulic lines). And you can run hydraulic line with standard barbed fittings...its not pressure you're using the hydraulic line for, its the toughness.

The Stant-brand filler caps are solid making them easy to install a swivel in...saves ruining your OE cap. I like this method because you can simply unscrew it, plop it in a container, catch your sample (either a flow rate measurement or a oil sample for analysis), and reinstall with no disassembly.

 

[Toy4x4runner]

Good to know. and the stant cap is a lot cheaper than a $80 Amsoil billet filler cap. So I probably can piece my own kit together... and save money. We have a Amazon Hose in Tampa, and I work in the water treatment construction business so I know pipes, fittings, and hoses very well.

Where do you get the swivel fittings though... hydraulic shop?

 

[deeter16317]

I got the swivel fitting from Amsoil, I replaced a Amsoil bypass with the GCF and simply reused the Amsoil swivel fitting. They are fairly inexpensive, and can be bought separately.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
Good to know. and the stant cap is a lot cheaper than a $80 Amsoil billet filler cap.


Yeah ..when I saw the $50 price for a Cummins cap (I guess it's gone up a bit to $66) I said "what are they thinking?". That's someone's cash cow, imho. That could be easily marketed somewhere else as a "dress up" accessory for $25 (my value on it) and then drilled for another $5+/-). The money in the total line is the recurring bypass filter sales.

 

[Toy4x4runner]

Well, if I can buy,drill & tap a Stant cap for $10, great. I just can't stand forking out money hand over fist for things that should be half the cost. $66-$80 is a lot of money when you have to earn it, and then get the "spread it out" tax taken out of it. Stant cap it is. and I'll tee a pressure port, which is way cheaper than a Billet filter cap. Just have to PICK a bypass filter now. That's the choice and big money.

 

[deeter16317]

The Stant cap for my Cummins cost $11...the swivel cost $15 from Amsoil? I know guys have sourced the swivel from hydraulic shops before, but not sure they are as cheap as Amsoil.

I bought hydraulic hose from eBay for $35 (for 50 foot of 1/4").

The filter was also sourced from eBay for 1/3 of new.

 

[deeter16317]

Definitely watch eBay for filters...

 

[Toy4x4runner]

so what filter should I go with?

FS-2500
Oil Guard
PuraDyn
KleenOil
Gulfcoast
?

who has the smallest micron rating?

 

[deeter16317]

IIRC, anything under 5 micron will not "wear"...

This is one of those things that you got to decide on...each one has its pros and cons...size, cost, replacement filter/element cost, ease-of-use, ease-of-obtaining replacement filters, etc...

I chose a GCF because the filter change interval was 10k miles, it uses easy-to-obtain and cheap elements, the filter itself was affordable (purchased used), and size wasn't an issue. It worked for me...but wouldn't work for others.

 

[Toy4x4runner]

I kind of like the KleenOil and FS-2500. Aren't the GC's real big? I'm trying to mount it under the hood in a dead space somewhere...

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I just can't stand forking out money hand over fist for things that should be half the cost. $66-$80 is a lot of money


I tend to agree. I don't really agree with the fluff here. I'm sure there's someone somewhere to argue with me over that at corporate ..but

We're in the oil and filter business .the rest should not be a source of some required ROI, imo.

Hydraulic hose is usually cheap enough ..and, although not rated for the potential temp, is WAY OVERBOARD on the pressure rating. Kinda rigid. An alternative, if you're into it, is trans cooler line. I think it's still like $30/25ft on ebay. It's not the higher rated hose, but still exceeding the need of bypass filtration.

 

[deeter16317]

I disagree about the temp rating of hydraulic hose...the stuff I have on my bypass is rated at 300*F...and how many hydraulic units don't push 200*F continuous under load?? In addition, not only is hydraulic hose over-rated on pressure, that same braided wire that gives it that strength makes it very strong (puncture, cut, abrasion, and tear resistant), more so than typical nylon-braided rubber hose would be. I don't feel you need the pressure rating of hydraulic hose, but the sheer strength of it in other aspects is invaluable.

As far as the Gulf Coast, yes they (the 0-1 model) are very big...imagine a roll of paper towels and add an inch in diameter and six inches in length. I have attached a photo comparing the size of a GCF to an Amsoil EaBP110...they require a lot of room and a substantial mount at almost 30#s in wieght.

 

[Steve S]

You probably won't wear out the engine without a bypass so why install one.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I disagree about the temp rating of hydraulic hose...the stuff I have on my bypass is rated at 300*F


Go through them all. Go to Northerntool ...TSC ..Gates. There's only one below that's rated over 212F. What they do have is (typically) is 2000 psi operating ratings and 5000 psi burst ratings.

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Sea...CFQOuFQodJWoyMA

SAE 100R2 AT
Two-Wire Braids

Recommended For: High Pressure hydraulic lines. Meets or exceeds requirements of SAE 100R2AT.
Tube: Black, oil resistant, Nittrile (BTR).
Reinforcement: Two braids of high tensile steel wire
Cover: Black, oil and abrasion resistant Neoprene (CR).
Temperature Range: -40 F to +212 F

SAE 100R16

Recommended For: High Pressure hydraulic lines. Meets or exceeds requirements of SAE 100R16.
Tube: Black, oil resistant, Nittrile (BTR).
Reinforcement: Two braids of high tensile steel wire
Cover: Black, oil and abrasion resistant Neoprene (CR)
Temperature Range: -40 F to +212 F

SAE 100R17
Recommended For: High Pressure hydraulic lines. Meets or exceeds requirements of SAE 100R2AT.
Tube: Black, oil resistant, Nittrile (BTR).
Reinforcement: One or two braids of high tensile steel wire
Cover: Black, oil and abrasion resistant Neoprene (CR)
Temperature Range: -40 F to +212 F

Technical Specifications:

* Meets or exceeds all requirements of SAE 100R1AT
* Temperature range: -40° to +212° Fahrenheit.

DHH Item# Inside
Diameter Outside
Diameter Max. Working
Pressure Min. Burst

This hose is suitable for hydraulic fluids on mineral oil and synthetic oil basis (HL, HLP, HLPD, HVLP), oil-water-emulsions (HFAE, HFAS, HFB), water-glycol liquids (HFC), vegetable and mineral oil based lubricants, cooling water, and compressed air. Also generally suitable for biologically degradable hydraulic liquids (HETG, HEPG, HEES) however limited by fluid additives.

Not suitable for hydraulic fluids on phosphate ester basis (HFD).


Very High Pressure Hydraulic Hose (4-wire)

Recommended for petroleum and water-bases hydraulic fluids in very high pressure applications. Meets or exceeds all requirements of SAE 100R12.

* Long-lasting cover is well-suited for mobile hydraulics.
* Black, oil resistant, synthetic rubber tube.
* Four spiral layers of high tensile steel wire reinforcement.
* Oil and abrasion resistant, gray synthetic rubber cover.
* Temperature range: -40° to +250° Fahrenheit.
* No skiving required.

SAE 100R12 HoseSpecifications



Medium Pressure Hydraulic Hose

"R3" is a fiber reinforced hydraulic hose for applications where steel wire is not desired. Recommended for medium pressure fuel and oil lines, as well as hydraulic return and suction lines. Meets or exceeds all requirements of SAE 100R3.

* Black, oil resistant Nittrile (BTR) tube.
* Two layers of braided fiber reinforcement.
* Oil and abrasion resistant, black Neoprene (CR) cover.
* Temperature range: -40° to +212° Fahrenheit.
* No skiving required.

SAE 100R3 Hose Specifications

This hose is suitable for hydraulic fluids on mineral oil and synthetic oil basis (HL, HLP, HLPD, HVLP), oil-water-emulsions (HFAE, HFAS, HFB), water-glycol liquids (HFC), vegetable and mineral oil based lubricants, cooling water, and compressed air. Also generally suitable for biologically degradable hydraulic liquids (HETG, HEPG, HEES) however limited by fluid additives.


Now if you got to SAE J1019 (transmission cooler line hose) ..you get a much higher temp rating at much lower pressure.

SAE J1019

1. Scope--This SAE Standard is intended to establish uniform methods for testing and evaluation of hose and hose assemblies for use in high temperature transmission oil systems and high temperature lubricating oil systems using petroleum base oils within a temperature range of −40° to 150°C (−40° to 302°F) and a maximum working pressure of 1.5 MPa (217 psi). Hose construction, dimensions, identification, and hose fitting configurations shall be agreed upon by the supplier and user.


http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=5122&location_id=5094

If your hose doesn't sport one of the numbers you see in the above link ..then you've probably got a 212F rating at EXTREME pressure (by automotive standards).

 

[deeter16317]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
You probably won't wear out the engine without a bypass so why install one.



Because I can??? Do you need a reason?

 

[deeter16317]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

If your hose doesn't sport one of the numbers you see in the above link ..then you've probably got a 212F rating at EXTREME pressure (by automotive standards).



I have gates hose...and the stuff listed in your link.

And I thought you, of all people, wouldn't be surprised at what one can obtain from ebay...

 

[Gary Allan]

You'll get used to that rhetoric from SteveS. I really do say this with a smile on my face ..a big one, but I'd hardly go on a turbo charger site just to tell all of the road racers that they're wasting their time and should drive slower.