copper tubing ( red vs blue )

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I got the wrong one. I'm putting a faucet in my attached garage on the house wall. I picked up all the pieces including a 10' length of 1/2" copper pipe at Menards. I mounted the faucet but I haven't run the pipe yet. I noticed the pipe I bought has a red stripe and the existing copper pipe in the basement has a blue stripe so I goggle it and sure enough I should have gotten the blue, ( thicker ), copper pipe.

I think I would be OK with the red since it's only about a 5' run and it will only be used occasionally for washing cars etc. I don't think it would wear out in my lifetime...??? I have "city" lake Michigan water if that makes a difference.

So... should I just go ahead and use it or go and get a length of blue? Honestly, I didn't even see any blue at Menards but did see it tonight at Home Depot.
 
If there was some problem and it did burst, it could provide an out for the insurance company.

I'd fix it properly.
 
Originally Posted By: NJC
If there was some problem and it did burst, it could provide an out for the insurance company.

I'd fix it properly.


Why does everyone think that they're always going to deal with the Toyota Service manager on his next stop for a job
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I mean ..really now. This ultra-litigious preemptive paranoia is really getting out there in "You'll shoot your eye out kid!!".


Copper pipe is available in three basic types:

* Type M
is a thin walled pipe. It is the most common type of copper tube sold, used mainly behind walls inside homes to route water from the service line and water heater to the fixtures. Trunk lines are typically run in 3/4-in. type M copper with 1/2-in. type M branching away to serve individual fixtures.

* Type 'L' (hard or soft)
for thicker wall tube, considered standard piping for use for water services inside and out, especially outside or wherever the pipe will be exposed.

* Type 'K' (hard or soft)
the thickest, used mainly between water mains and the meter, for heavy-duty vacuum pump lines and underground lines.

Type K: domestic water below grade (green)
Type L: domestic water above grade (blue)
Type M: hydronic heat (red)
Type DWV: wastewater (yellow)
 
Originally Posted By: NJC
If there was some problem and it did burst, it could provide an out for the insurance company.

I'd fix it properly.


Good point, but in this case it's in an unfinished area of the basement and there is a floor drain near by. From what I read, the only reason it would wear thin is from water with a high mineral content. I don't think it would be a problem...??? That's why I'm hoping there's some plumbers hanging around BITOG.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
is it possible for this pipe to freeze?


No. It's in the basement next to the furnace. It connects to the faucet via a flexible hose and the faucet is the freeze-proof type.
 
I just replaced some 1/2" M copper pipe for my mother with PEX, the copper piping had sprung some leaks between the concrete slab and the flooring. With the well water and lying on concrete the pipe lasted 54 years. I think you can go with the thin walled pipe for 35+ years without any worry.
 
Originally Posted By: xlt4me
Originally Posted By: tom slick
is it possible for this pipe to freeze?


No. It's in the basement next to the furnace. It connects to the faucet via a flexible hose and the faucet is the freeze-proof type.


I'd use what you've got already.
 
Originally Posted By: lewdwig
I just replaced some 1/2" M copper pipe for my mother with PEX, the copper piping had sprung some leaks between the concrete slab and the flooring. With the well water and lying on concrete the pipe lasted 54 years. I think you can go with the thin walled pipe for 35+ years without any worry.


LOL, that should work. Since I'm 58, that would be a lifetime guarantee.
 
Originally Posted By: shanneba
the type M copper met the standard plumbing code for Indiana for years. Use the red


Thank's, I didn't realize that M met the code... or used to? Anyway, unless someone mentions a real compelling reason not to, I probably will.
 
type M will wear out near the sweated joints in about 20 yrs or so. At least that was my experience with a rental house I was re habbing. I have never had to deal with leaky copper pipes in my own house where type K was installed back in the 60s.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
type M will wear out near the sweated joints in about 20 yrs or so. At least that was my experience with a rental house I was re habbing. I have never had to deal with leaky copper pipes in my own house where type K was installed back in the 60s.


I liked the 35yr estimate better.
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What actually causes the wear?
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: NJC
it could provide an out for the insurance company.


This ultra-litigious preemptive paranoia....

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Originally Posted By: NJC
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: NJC
it could provide an out for the insurance company.


This ultra-litigious preemptive paranoia....

old.gif




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wink.gif



Looking back ..my response seemed somewhat harsh. Granted..it was a visceral response but not intended to be offending. I do think that we're conditioned to "be afraid ..be very afraid" a bit too much. My insurance adjuster would have no idea if this was an existing installation ..a new(er) installation ..or one that the original builder installed ..the same with the electric ..the roof ..anything that would contribute to the potential damage.

Now the "codes officer"?? ..that's who you have to ante up to/for.
 
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