Amsoil engine flush product

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Do any use Amsoil engine flush product regularly, I'd like to hear of practical use experiences of the product. Thanks.

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Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Quest
Nope, never believe in solvent engine flush to begin with, unless your engine has severe sludge to begin with.

Q.


You don't believe in a solvent flush cleaner! Yet you would use ONLY in a sludge engine? That don't make sense!
 
Thanks, I'm thinking more in terms of keeping ring grooves free of coke buildup rather than general sludge. As I have been looking at using M1 0W-40 and from some reading PAO based oils are said to build harder coke deposits which may tend to accumulate I'm wondering if there would be an upside to running a solvent flush to keep these to a minimum. Second choice would be to run Auto-RX ester based maintenance cleanout additive courses but that product isn't available in this area although I could order it in if I thought that would keep the groves free of build up.

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Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Originally Posted By: Quest
Nope, never believe in solvent engine flush to begin with, unless your engine has severe sludge to begin with.

Q.


You don't believe in a solvent flush cleaner! Yet you would use ONLY in a sludge engine? That don't make sense!


Of course it doesn't make sense to you if you aren't involved in engine overhaul/rebuilding to begin with ( I was an engine rebuilder before).

The way I see it: if the engine is severely sludged, I would rather tear things apart and then manually scrub down with solvent and/or hot-tank the thing instead of running solvent mixed with oil to risk damaging seals and ruining my bearings.

I absolutely refuse solvent to even come close to my functional engines and the only gentle cleaner I would vote for is AutoRx. All other solvents and keros are only meant for hand scrubbing in my case.

Still don't get it? Talk to an engine rebuilder near you.

Q.
 
Dale-

Unless you have a seriously flawed engine design to begin with, otherwise, the likeliness of an escalated oil ring grove coking in a stock engine shall be minimal (or very, very slow) at best.


In other words: you are a worry wart.

Q.

I got engines running past 300,000kms w/o any oil ring coking and such with just regular otc conventional oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Originally Posted By: Quest
Nope, never believe in solvent engine flush to begin with, unless your engine has severe sludge to begin with.

Q.


You don't believe in a solvent flush cleaner! Yet you would use ONLY in a sludge engine? That don't make sense!


Of course it doesn't make sense to you if you aren't involved in engine overhaul/rebuilding to begin with ( I was an engine rebuilder before).

The way I see it: if the engine is severely sludged, I would rather tear things apart and then manually scrub down with solvent and/or hot-tank the thing instead of running solvent mixed with oil to risk damaging seals and ruining my bearings.

I absolutely refuse solvent to even come close to my functional engines and the only gentle cleaner I would vote for is AutoRx. All other solvents and keros are only meant for hand scrubbing in my case.

Still don't get it? Talk to an engine rebuilder near you.

Q.


OP asked about Amsoil engine cleaner. I can't quite understand how rebuilding and tearing an engine apart got involved over a simple question about a solvent cleaner? I don't get it...
 
Thanks for helping keep the thread on track MB. My question is specificaly about the Amsoil engine flush and not about other flushes in general. I think that Amsoil trys to excel at providing good products so has the Amsoil engine flush been chemically engineered to a higher quality than some of the other 'engine flushes' on the market and if so what qualities make it better; ie: are there high concentrations of polar ester or other detergents in the product. Is the product safe to use in engines as stated on the Amsoil website or is it snake oil.

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from the MSDS


Section 2: Composition/Information on Ingredients
HYDROTREATED PETROLEUM DISTILLATE, CAS# 64742-54-7, 15-20%
2-BUTOXYETHANOL, GLYCOL ETHER EB, CAS# 111-76-2, 20-25%
ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATES, CAS# 64742-88-7, appx wt=60-65%


http://www.amsoil.com/msds/aef.pdf

btw - The Engine and Crankcase Cleaner has been on the market since 1980, 28 yrs.
 
Here's Gunk for comparison. Gumout has no real data on content

Chemical Name CAS No. % Range Trade Secret
Naphthalene 91-20-3 0.1 - 1.0
Naphthenic Petroleum Distillate 64742-52-5 7.0 - 13.0
Petroleum distillate, Aliphatic 68476-34-6 60.0 - 100.0
Surfactant 26264-05-1 0.1 - 1.0
Toluene 108-88-3 Not Available
Xylene (mixed isomers) 1330-20-7 0.1 - 1.0
 
I use it probably once a year and before I make the car change over to Amsoil from dino.

I've also used SeaFoam before in the same way.
 
This is only necessary on engines that have been abused on oil changes... like an oil change every 30k on conventional. Even then it might do more harm than good.

My philosophy is only to put OIL in the OIL hole. I would imagine you'd do less harm using Marvel Mystery Oil as a solvent than this.
 
The only reason to use any of the solvent engine flush products is to thin the oil so more drains out before you switch to a new type of oil. I do not know if this makes any significant difference.

The period of time the solvent is in the engine is inadequate to dissolve anything nasty, and ordinary warm oil dissolves everything else.
 
The thing with a solvent is that when you add it to the engine oil and drain the engine oil you are not getting all that solvent out. SO your new oil will start out with some solvent in it. Might as well pour 3 oz of gas in the crankcase with the new oil.
 
I've used the Amsoil Engine fFush since the original version came on the market back in 1980 - it does a very good job when used according to directions. For really sludges up engines I would change just the oil filter before running the flush and of run it at a fast idle (I use 2x normal idle speed), in neutral for a full 30 minutes. I take a small block, brick, or piece of cordwood and ease it up against the gas pedal until I get the rpms I want on the tach.
 
I'm in TeeDub's camp on this. 1200 RPM for 15 minutes with a new sludge catching napa silver filter is good for the older dino cars (you can actually here when the filter fills up with sludge/buildup and goes into bypass). For newer vehicles idling around 1,000 is ok with a decent filter of less than 3,000 miles. Anyone that buys a high quality synthetic oil is well served by using AEF before changing over. It isn't THAT VOLATILE to screw up seals. I've ran it in a few dozen cars and they were fine. Now some of the B12 type flushes are quite agressive and may jack up a marginal seal. The amsoil solvent when paired with a fresh mid-grade filter is the quickest way to rid an engine of accumulated nasties without using 2/3rds of the additive package of the new fill to deliver a lesser result.
 
If an engine has sludge, then a flush may loosen it and have the junk clog up your filter screen or get into the oil pump.

I would only use a product that removes the sludge over time.
 
There's a sensible meeting up with Amsoil products and an otherwise fairly well cared for engine. Now you may run into a sludge prone engine, but I really think that this level of tar like deposits aren't going anywhere with any agent in a short rinse. They can perhaps be reduced (to a leach-able state) where oil chemistry can do the longer term job. Now simple film build up
21.gif
Sure.
 
I have used very little engine flush since finding ARX, but never had a problem using it for a quick clean-up. I know a guy that used the Amsoil flush every oil change and he never had any leaks or engine problems and sold the car with over 200k miles in it. I would not use it like that personally. He was proud of the fact that he had only changed his oil like 10 times since new. It was some sort of small, 4 cyl Mitsubishi.
 
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