GCV160 carb adjustment

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Has anyone adjusted their RPM's on their Honda GCV160 engine? Were is the adjustment screw? The mower runs great but during cutting thicker grass the engine really bogs down.
 
Try amsoil 0W40 synthetic Formula 4 stroke oil! The mower takes less than 1 quart. I found this oil at Canadian Tire for about $10 per quart.

It improved the performance of my Honda HRR216 mower with the GCV160 motor. No puff of black smoke when going from low idle to full speed, more power for long grass, oil still looks clean at end of season - light brown rather than black.

I was using straight 30W dino oil and I also changed the air filter this spring.
 
I forgot to ask if your motor has always had trouble with long grass. If so my advice above applies.

If the power has dropped from new, I would remove the carb, disassemble and clean it with carb cleaner and compressed air. It is not that difficult and there are lots of very small passages that can plug.
 
The linkage is what gets adjusted to raise the RPM that the engine runs at.
Best done by a mechanic with a tach.
Aim for 3300-3400 RPM.
Synthetic oil may help, but likely won't be noticable.
So far, I just slow down for the taller grass.
Sharpen the blade.
 
Originally Posted By: mva
Try amsoil 0W40 synthetic Formula 4 stroke oil! The mower takes less than 1 quart. I found this oil at Canadian Tire for about $10 per quart.

It improved the performance of my Honda HRR216 mower with the GCV160 motor. No puff of black smoke when going from low idle to full speed, more power for long grass, oil still looks clean at end of season - light brown rather than black.

I was using straight 30W dino oil and I also changed the air filter this spring.

I use Amsoil 10W30/30W Small engine oil...Fires right up on the first pull.
 
Originally Posted By: mva
I forgot to ask if your motor has always had trouble with long grass. If so my advice above applies.

If the power has dropped from new, I would remove the carb, disassemble and clean it with carb cleaner and compressed air. It is not that difficult and there are lots of very small passages that can plug.

The mower is new...first season. Since day one Ive ran Shell or Chevron 87 with fuel Stabl. Next spring im changing the blade, oil and spark plug. Im giving the E3 spark plug a try so well see.
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
The linkage is what gets adjusted to raise the RPM that the engine runs at.
Best done by a mechanic with a tach.
Aim for 3300-3400 RPM.
Synthetic oil may help, but likely won't be noticable.
So far, I just slow down for the taller grass.
Sharpen the blade.

Cool thanks...i do slow down over the taller stuff.
 
There's no way to adjust max engine RPMs without doing something homemade to the governor, which will greatly reduce the lifespan of the engine. I know I've accidentally mashed brush and what not against the governor linkage during some brush-hogging sessions with my GCV160. They rev up pretty good.
 
Because the mower is essentially new - first season - you are probably up against the basic power limit of the engine. The trottle moves a linkage that comes up against a stop - it's not really adjustable - and then the governer takes over when you hit long grass.

The air filter is new, the spark plug is new the carb is not likely to be plugged up from old gas. If you think something is wrong you could take the mower back to where ever you bought it since it is probably still under warrantee.

One compromize you can do is raise the wheels and cut the grass a little higher and make sure the lawn is as dry as possible.
 
The engine itself is rated at higher RPM then our friends in the federal government will let them run.
Most mower engines are set for 3000 rpm; Honda rates the engine at 3400 and above.
Riding mower racers run those engines much higher (5000?).
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
There's no way to adjust max engine RPMs without doing something homemade to the governor, which will greatly reduce the lifespan of the engine. I know I've accidentally mashed brush and what not against the governor linkage during some brush-hogging sessions with my GCV160. They rev up pretty good.

Thanks JTK...the mower has been fantastic.
 
Originally Posted By: mva
Because the mower is essentially new - first season - you are probably up against the basic power limit of the engine. The trottle moves a linkage that comes up against a stop - it's not really adjustable - and then the governer takes over when you hit long grass.

The air filter is new, the spark plug is new the carb is not likely to be plugged up from old gas. If you think something is wrong you could take the mower back to where ever you bought it since it is probably still under warrantee.

One compromize you can do is raise the wheels and cut the grass a little higher and make sure the lawn is as dry as possible.

Thanks...I think its just normal operation.
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
The engine itself is rated at higher RPM then our friends in the federal government will let them run.
Most mower engines are set for 3000 rpm; Honda rates the engine at 3400 and above.
Riding mower racers run those engines much higher (5000?).

Would be cool to turn my rice rocket push mower into the baddest mower on the block...maybe VTEC, hehe.
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Most mower engines are set for 3000 rpm; Honda rates the engine at 3400 and above.
Riding mower racers run those engines much higher (5000?).


All very true, but the race engines are built up with aftermarket parts so they can take all those RPMs.

Joel
 
The 190 seems to be considerably more powerful than the 160. I have both. But they do seem to run a little low on the rpm side.
My 160 is close like 6-7 years old and still runs like day one.
Each engine sounds different (160 vs 190), with the 190 being deeper and louder. Running Castrol synblend 10W-30 in both. No smoke puffs when starting. In my opinion Honda engines are much better than the B&S equivalent.

No issues with bogging down though as I tend to keep my grass mowed frequently.
 
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