How good is Redline Water wetter?

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I second the RP Purple Ice. It dropped the temps in my vette 6 degrees and didn't make smilkous out of the reservoir. I have no experience with the Redline Water Wetter.
 
within a month of putting in this redline stuff i had to flush my coolant system to clean out all the junk it left. i have never tried purple ice. again, my truck uses toyota red coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: mikeinaustin
within a month of putting in this redline stuff i had to flush my coolant system to clean out all the junk it left. i have never tried purple ice. again, my truck uses toyota red coolant.


Well seems that with red coolant it make a mess, I tried it with yellow one and no problems
 
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
Watter wetter does nothing if its used with antifreeze. It is designed for race cars that must use straight water.


Not true becouse at least it lubrificate the pump, and by my experience seems to better the heat excenge with cooling system infact the indicator goes in the middle more quikly.
 
Ok, now you've got me worried.. I was hoping the stuff would lower my combustion temperature a bit to reduce the oil consumption of my car. Is this not so? I was reading it could reduce the combustion temperature up to 30 degrees C. But lacking the gauges to show this, I have no idea.

Shall I change the coolant again to get rid of the WW?

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Exact brown snot happened on my brand new Volvo 850 in 1996. It has happened to thousands of cars, and is caused by Water Wetter. Ask Redline.
 
For high oil consumption try a different oil. I have had success with Castrol Syntec 5W40. This oil meets BMW LL98, as required for my BMW's engine.

I recently purchased a used 2000 M Roadster with the 3.2l S52 engine. It was using scary amounts of oil (approx 1 liter in 1000 km). These motors are known to use lots of oil. I dumped the old oil and put in 7 quarts of Castrol Syntec 5W40 and BMW filter.

So far the oil level, on the dip stick, is down less than 1/16" after 800km of hard driving with lots of full throttle blasts up to the redline. I am careful to check the oil in the morning before starting the car. If you check immediately after stopping you can get a false low reading. The BMW manual recommends waiting 5 minutes before checking the oil.

The motor also sounds noticably smoother with no noise on cold starts.
 
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Originally Posted By: mva
For high oil consumption try a different oil. I have had success with Castrol Syntec 5W40. This oil meets BMW LL98, as required for my BMW's engine.

I recently purchased a used 2000 M Roadster with the 3.2l S52 engine. It was using scary amounts of oil (approx 1 liter in 1000 km). These motors are known to use lots of oil. I dumped the old oil and put in 7 quarts of Castrol Syntec 5W40 and BMW filter.

So far the oil level, on the dip stick, is down less than 1/16" after 800km of hard driving with lots of full throttle blasts up to the redline. I am careful to check the oil in the morning before starting the car. If you check immediately after stopping you can get a false low reading. The BMW manual recommends waiting 5 minutes before checking the oil.

The motor also sounds noticably smoother with no noise on cold starts.


I would have to agree with you there on that oil, but I'm thinking the discussion here was about Redline WW?
 
Sorry, I realized I was off topic but Dan in the post above mentioned that he added water wetter to reduce temperature and oil consumption.

The redline site recommends the use of water wetter with all brands of antifreeze and claim coolant temperature reductions under extreme conditions.

There is an interesting water wetter demo on the redline site:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp
 
Most definitely there is brown snot formed with a 50/50 mix.. I took one look at the overflow tank and had it flushed and refilled the same day. Don't know what else in the engine might have been coated with this goo as well. Doubt that the use of this product did much of anything to reduce oil burning.

It would be difficult to infer much from the coolant temperature gauge alone as well.. it's located at a particular spot, which may not be close to where combustion is occurring or the oil passages. It would be better to have some sort of sensor closer to the area of interest, only then is it a true test. I would like to be able to monitor the oil temperature somehow.

Industrial plants don't use anything but untreated river water for their cooling, they deal with any corrosion issues as they arise.
 
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