Dealer Valvoline 5W30 - '08 Infiniti G37, 3830mi

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Hi guys,

This is the data on some Dealer Bulk Valvoline Dino 5W-30 drained from my 2008 Infiniti G37 with the 3.7L VVEL V6 (VQ37VHR). Oil was in the car from 2670mi to 6501mi (for a total of 3830mi OCI). This included a 3kmi roadtrip. The car still has the stock paper air filters and was using a stock Nissan oil filter. Car is still driven in the midwest. The oil was drained when this sample was taken, and replaced with Penzoil Yellow Bottle Dino 5W-30.

Here are the results from Blackstone. According to them, it appears to be wearing in nicely. They did note the viscosity appeared low for a 5W-30, but they didn't find fuel dilution to cause it. They think I can prob go 5-6k on the next OCI.

Bold emphasis is theirs, & previous UOA numbers are in (parenthesis)
Here's a link to the first UOA: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1187298#Post1187298
--------------------------------------------------------------
MI/HR on oil - 3,830mi (2,670mi)
MI/HR on car - 6,501mi (2,670mi)
Sample date - 25 July 08 (21 June 08)
Oil added - 0 quarts (0 quarts)

aluminum - 7 (8)
chromium - 0 (0)
iron - 27 (71)
copper - 44 (140)
lead - 5 (12)
tin - 1 (1)
molybdenum - 136 (491)
nickel - 0 (1)
manganese - 4 (10)
silver - 0 (0)
titanium - 0 (0)
potassium - 3 (8)
boron - 6 (15)
silicon - 60 (229)
sodium - 7 (7)
calcium - 1805 (1981)
magnesium - 11 (11)
phosphorus - 672 (734)
zinc - 825 (916)
barium - 2 (9)

SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 53.6 (52.3)
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 8.36 (7.97)
Flashpoint in 'F - 380 (390)
Fuel % - Antifreeze % - 0.0 (0.0)
Water % - 0.0 (0.0)
Insolubles % - 0.3 (0.3)

Well there ya go, some data for someone to use somewhere. As always, I appreciate comments. I can call and find out more specifically what Valvoline this was if that would be value-added for anyone. Thanks.
 
They do. It's interesting how each engine make/model have different wear patterns. Just keep trending.
 
Yep, the engine is still breaking in. I wouldn't push it to 6k, 5k probably ok, but if it was mine I would keep it at 3k until the wear goes down.
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'll probably stick to the mfg. schedule of 3750mi for this OCI as well. I may stay dino one more OCI, but I got some PP on sale (like $2 or $3-something a quart) and I'm dying to use it :D
 
I don't know if its the break-in process, or just the engine design, but does that engine EVER shear down the oil! 2 fills, under 4k miles each, and your comfortably into the 20-weight range. Once its done break-in, I'd personally never use anything other than a 40-weight synthetic in it, something like RTS or TDT. That may be overkill, but on a car this pricy, I'd err on the side of caution....
 
Glad to see those numbers coming down even though I still can't get over how much material is showing up in your UOA, especially with an extended road trip. Looks like you've got to keep up your sampling and short OCIs until those numbers flatten out and then find what this engine is happy running on for the long term.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I don't know if its the break-in process, or just the engine design, but does that engine EVER shear down the oil! 2 fills, under 4k miles each, and your comfortably into the 20-weight range. Once its done break-in, I'd personally never use anything other than a 40-weight synthetic in it, something like RTS or TDT. That may be overkill, but on a car this pricy, I'd err on the side of caution....


Which oils are RTS and TDT? Is RTS a Rotella synth? I have no idea which one TDT is. I wonder if my service manager would give me any grief for warranty purposes about running a -40 weight since the manual calls for 30. I'll have to ask.
 
Okay, I don't see how to edit a post. Anyhow, I would assume RTS is the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic? I think my local Costco carries that....hrmmmm...that could be great!
 
Johnny,

If the manual for your car calls for 30-weight, run that - you don't want warranty grief over the wrong oil, if it comes to that! I just 'thought' Nissan's oil recs. were similar to the old 'temperature charts', and allowed different visc. for different climates.

If the manual says run 5W-30, then you can run 5W-30 or even 0W-30, and I 'personally' would run a stout synthetic, something like PP 5W-30, or GC 0W-30, to deal with how harsh this engine is on oil...
 
Speaking of Nissan oil recommendations, check this craziness out:

Quote:
Per Infiniti TSB ITB08-039 for 08-09 G37 and FX50
INFINITI recommends Genuine NISSAN Ester Engine Oil available at your INIFINITI dealer. The part number is 999MP-5W30EP.


They're recommending this new "Nissan Ester Engine Oil" with a general TSB (ITB08-039). But look at this:

Quote:
Per Infiniti TSB ITB08-029a
NOTE: You must (emphasis mine) always use Nissan Ester Oil P/N 999MP-5W30EP as listed in the Parts Information section of this bulletin. Do not use any other oil for this Service Procedure.


So, it's also REQUIRED for the VVEL tapping issue TSB (ITB08-029a) for my VQ engine. Weird. Does anyone have any idea why this would be the case?

See: http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/local_links.php?catid=86 (I tried to post the .pdf because you need to create a login at the site...but I don't see the option in the forum here to attach it...odd)

(fyi - I did slightly cross-post with a Maxima thread on the topic in the Pass Car Oil section)
 
It strikes me that some engine manufacturere are still trying
to get by with low quality oils in high performance applications that clearly should be using synlubes. So you see these TSB's coming out recommending better lubricants....

In this case I suspect the valvetrain is deposit prone and the addition of the oil shearing down results in a noisy engine. A 5w-30 or 10w-30, PAO/Ester synthetic should be almost completely shear stable/ thats what I'd use here. Something like Mobil 1, Amsoil or Redline should all work well in this application.
 
I would stay away from dealer oil changes. Buy your oil at walmart and they will change it for you. As you know by now the dealer, oil distributor and the blender focus on price not performance. I'm sorry I fill the oil in bottles is better quality than bulk lubricants.
 
Originally Posted By: jdean
I would stay away from dealer oil changes. Buy your oil at walmart and they will change it for you. As you know by now the dealer, oil distributor and the blender focus on price not performance. I'm sorry I fill the oil in bottles is better quality than bulk lubricants.


It's the same stuff.
 
Same stuff but, oil in large bulk container can result in additive separation if the container use is prolonged. GM recognized this years ago and low volume oil use dealers are supposed to use smaller bulk containers to minimize additive separation over time.
 
Hi, Im new to the forum. I have a new '09 Infiniti G37S 4dr; it came with Nissan Ester Oil; I had my 1st oil chg @ 3800mi & analysis by Wear Check in N.C. It looks a lot like yours; Hi Si & Cu. I think HI iron & copper is typical of the break-in period; I didn't take mine to the track, but I do drive with 'spirit'! Since your silicon dropped a lot from the 1st oil change, I think that Nissan puts in a break-in additive in the Ester Oil; the mechanic said he thought so; Im going to Nissan Hdqtrs soon so maybe I can find out. In my BMW X5 & Toyota Highlander, I have always used M1 synth & Castrol full synthetic & typically went 8-10,000mi & changed it when the TAN doubled from its baseline; its too expensive to test for TBN & TAN.
 
I'd consider a 10w30 synthetic in this motor for better shear stability. Redline, perhaps? It's ester based as well...
 
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