steel vs. 2x4 for a wall

[JHZR2]

Hello,

THe common wall between two of my bedrooms consists of two closets. One of the closet's back wall was removed, the door taken off, and thus was a "walkway" from one room to another. The previous owners effectively used the one bedroom as a huge walk-in closet.

Well we want the bedroom back... so I need to first and foremost replace that back wall that made up the wall of the bedroom and the back of the one closet.

It was recommended by a drywall guy to use steel instead of 2x4. However, other folks Ive talked to have claimed that 2x4s are stronger. The advantage of steel seems to be that it can be installed like an erector set, and is simpler than cutting a lot of lumber.

However, the steel also seems slightly more expensive than the 2x4s at HD.

So, which is the way to go? Obviously the house is made of wood, not steel. It doesnt really matter to me.

Also, working with the steel, it was recommended to do a "butterfly" for the pieces against the walls, so that the steel had two screws going out at angles from either corner. This is odd... is that the general rule, or just for some situations, like if the new wall wasnt on top of a joist?

What is the best way to put a wall back up? Any suggestions???

Thanks,

JMH

 

[tom slick]

are you planning on doing the work?

 

[JHZR2]

yes

and I have left over 3/8 sheetrock from when I did my ceilings... so that part is accounted for.

Ive just never framed...

Thanks,

JMH

 

[tom slick]

I'd recommend wood because it is more intuitive and familiar. Steel framing is great stuff but for a DIY'r you aren't going to find as much info on it.

 

[duaneb9729]

i would vote go with the wood, 3/8" sheet rock is sort of thin for steel studs.

i never framed a wall either till i a couple of years ago and it wasnt hard at all

either way it will be a learning experiance you apply to other projects around the house

 

[Tempest]

Wood is much easier DIY. As someone stated, working with steel studs is less intuitive and requires more specialized tools. They are also much weaker than a 2x4 stud.

 

[XS650]

Skip the steel for residential. It's doesn't make as good a wall as wood.

It's lighter, more flexible and transmits sound more than a wood framed wall. If you know someone with a steel framed residential wall, pound on it with your hand and you can feel and hear the difference between that and a wood framed wall.

If you pick up a steel stud and a wood stud at the store, you can feel how much more flexible the steel stud is. They are made of really thin sheet metal.

 

[TooManyWheels]

If you can read a tape and a level, and swing a hammer, you can frame. Obviously you don't have to remove any load bearing walls, so what you are constructing is essentially decorative. Put up a top and bottom plate, run studs on 16" centers, drywall and you are done. The closet doors should not need structural headers. Leave the doors' rough openings about 3/4-1" larger than the frame (total, not each side)so you can shim them square.

Your major decision is whether to assemble the wall on the floor and tilt-up, or build it in place. If room allows it will be easier to build it on the floor. This is somewhat affected by the parallelism of the floor and ceiling. Even if they are non-parallel, you can build the wall slightly short and then shim the gap at the top.

Will this be on top of a concrete floor? If so, you should use treated lumber for the bottom plate, and you may have to look into how to fasten it to the concrete. A powder actuated tool is easiest, but may not be allowed by code. If it is allowed, be sure to use drive pins rated for the ACQ treated lumber (it will be marked on the package). If not, you will have to use either concrete anchors or screws.

 

[TooManyWheels]

You may want to hire a trim carpenter to install the base and door moldings, unless you are really good with a miter saw. Otherwise it should be a pretty simple project.

Edit - on the treated lumber - ignore that, as I believe that is only required for exterior walls. You (and especially your wife) don't want to be exposed to chemicals unneccesarily.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I hate metal studs. Some guys love them. Good for nice strait runs and shimming.

 

[dwendt44]

Steel is fine for new commercial or industrial construction.
For the average joe, wood is the way to go.

 

[crw]

I also vote wood, having used both. Steel is straighter, but wood is much easier to deal with. If you ever want to hang something on that wall, you'll be glad you used wood.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
It's lighter, more flexible and transmits sound more than a wood framed wall.


Yes. That's when you use a lighter form of fiberglass insulation for sound deadening. Works for offices and whatnot. Here it would just add to the cost.

 

[crinkles]

one cannot make the generalisation that a steel stud is weaker than a timber stud. a lot of things come in to play, eg steel grade, section profile, steel sheet thickness, etc.

that being said I'd prefer wood if termites weren't a problem where you are.

also with using steel frames fitting and joining up can be a PITA if you're out even just a little...

I dream of building a timber framed house with my own two hands one day. on the farm.

 

[Pete C.]

Steel is fine IF you use 5/8" sheetrock as speced by the manufacturer.

3/8" sheetrock is not to NFPA code for residential construction. It is approved for re-facing existing 1/2"+ thick installations.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: Pete C.
Steel is fine IF you use 5/8" sheetrock as speced by the manufacturer.

3/8" sheetrock is not to NFPA code for residential construction. It is approved for re-facing existing 1/2"+ thick installations.


I use 5/8 sheetrock on wood studs, so residential grade steel studs are still cheesier. 5/8 is a small cost addition and makes nicer, little bit quieter wall.

 

[Tempest]

Could always double up the the 3/8" drywall.

 

[mechtech2]

Just remember that steel studs use different screw than normal drywall screw. They are much finer.
The steel studs sure are easy to transport - smaller and lighter.
But unless you are familiar with them, I'd go with wood for this small job. No learning curve.

 

[JHZR2]

I have 3/8 in-house because i did over some plaster ceilings... I didnt want the extra heft or hassle of 1/2 or 5/8 rock.

I have a lot of extra, I think Ill do the "double-up" trick... It is a completely useless wall - simply existing as the back of a closet, but all the same Ill put in the extra thickness, as I have quite a few sheets of 3/8.

Anything else I need to think about if Im doubling up??? I should have some 2.5" screws if I need them, I know I still have a lot of 2" screws.

For the top and bottom plate for my wall, do I nail or screw it in? I have to go out and buy nails for my frmaing nailer, but I have screws. I could drive nails the old fashioned way too, of course...

Thanks!

JMH

 

[duaneb9729]

there is no reason you cant use screws jhzr