0w-30 safe in an engine spec'd for 5w-20?

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In a nutshell: am I doing any harm to my engine by running a 0w-30 motor oil rather than the 5w-20 Honda specs in the U.S.?

I like to buy locally when at all possible; but 0w-20 is pretty expensive here, and it's impossible to find in multi-quart jugs. On the other hand I can walk into Wal-Mart and spend less than $25 on a 5 qt. jug of 0w-30 whenever I want it. I haven't seen much of a difference in fuel economy or performance... maybe a more "effortless" feel with the thinner oil, or a quieter engine at high rpms with the thicker. Seeing as how Honda's R18A1 is spec'd for 5w-20 in the States, Xw-30 in the U.K., and Xw-40 in Australia, will I shorten my engine's life by running the thicker oil in 6,000-7,500 mile OCI's?

Thanks for any advice!
 
Is it safe? Absolutely.

Will you shorten your engine's life? Theoretically, yes; realistically, you may never notice (depends on how long you own the car).

Please keep in mind that brand almost always trumps viscosity. You didn't mention any brands so I wanted to make sure to stress that.

Also keep in mind that the viscosity recommendations take into account climates and prevalent driving styles and conditions. An xw-30 on the American market may not work the same as an xw-30 in the UK: AFAIK, they see more short trips, fewer yearly miles, and a little more cut-and-thrust than most American cars do.

Why not buy Honda oil from the dealer? It's good stuff, and you know it's right for the car.
 
"In a nutshell: am I doing any harm to my engine by running a 0w-30 motor oil rather than the 5w-20 Honda specs in the U.S.?"
In a nutshell:NO

"will I shorten my engine's life by running the thicker oil in 6,000-7,500 mile OCI's?"
In a nutshell:NO
 
It wont shorten the engines life, it will increase it IMO.
In other countries Honda specs 10w-30 depending on climate on that same engine, you live in New Mexico you could run 10w-30.

The only thing that may suffer is your mileage, depending on what 0w-30 you use, I would stay away from Castrol 0w-30 its too thick for some engines and will rob throttle response and mileage.
 
You will not shorten your engine life, I am convinced you will increase it.

My daughter bought a Chrysler that called for 5W-20. I had her change it to Mobil 1 15W-50. It now has 116,000 miles and there are no engines noises, runs great, doesn't use a drop of oil, no starting problems in Northern, VA, gets better, much better than EPA estimates. She came home to visit two weeks ago, a 900 mile trip. With 116,000 miles, she still got 31 MPG. Not bad for a 7 passenger Chrysler van.
 
As far as engine life? It won't alter it at all. That is, unless there's a big difference between Honda life from Canada to southern Texas. That alone would effect a broader span of visc than 20 grade vs. 30 grade.

All oils transition from above a 70 weight to their operational visc ..and that's whatever it is at shut down for the event in question.
 
So bearing clearances and oil feed orifices for lifters and chain tensioners will not be effected at all by moving up to a higher viscosity? Would a 5W-30 or 0W-30 shear down to that of a 5-20 over time anyway? However, reading about a Chrysler product running on a 15W-50 that calls for a 5W-20 does ease my mind on this subject.
 
I am also running 15W-50 in a Chevrolet car that calls for 5W-30, a Pontiac G6 that calls for 5W-30, a Chevrolet Aveo(Daewoo) that calls for 5W-30. I think my good friends Ford truck calls for a 5W-20 and he runs Mobil 1 15W-50.

I like to research up to a point. When the exact same engine calls for a 5W-20, 5W/10W-30, 0W-40 depending upon where it is sold, I get suspicious. I look for differences in oils from different countries. Turns out, the foreign oils are most often better oils.


I have an engine in my truck that goes back many years. It used to call for a 10W-40, then 10W-30, now 5W-30. I got suspicious. I checked shop manuals and looked at main bearing clearances, journal clearance, piston to wall clearance, orifice diameters. Guess what? The only change is the engine went from flat bottom lifters to roller bottom lifters. Ah, but the metals are better. Most likely, but not good enough to change the clearances.

But oils are much better now. Maybe. With less anti wear, less viscosity film strength, I am not convinced beyond a shadow of a doubt. Definitely better base oils to build upon but a lack of building.

The two vehicles sitting in my drive with a total of 500,000 miles on 15W-50 and my daughter's van with 116,000 miles on 15W-50, as well as our other vehicles with around 1,000,000 miles with 15W-50 are a very convincing argument.

Obviously I can't compare gas mileage to a 20 or 30 grade but I seriously doubt that it exists except in a laboratory test facility. In a car on the road, an incline, slow driver in front of you, altitude changes, stop and go, construction zone, air density, how you use the air conditioner, air pressure in tires, state of engine tune, upset with the guy beside you and nail it, etc...etc...etc, I doubt it exists.

My 2008 Chevrolet Silverado now has just 1856 miles on it. I just drove it from Southeast Ky, to Cherokee, NC, full camping load, across the Smokey Mts, and got 21 mpg. Before that I drove it from Southeast Ky, to Blacksburg, Va, just 900+ miles on engine at beginning of trip, and got 23 MPG. EPA highway estimate is 20 MPG with a 5W-30.

Guess I best just go and mow. Two yards need it badly.
 
I see the OP has an '08 Civic - Honda is pretty picky about using what they say....you MAY have warranty troubles if you use a 30-weight...just a head's up....
 
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
I am also running 15W-50 in a Chevrolet car that calls for 5W-30, a Pontiac G6 that calls for 5W-30, a Chevrolet Aveo(Daewoo) that calls for 5W-30. I think my good friends Ford truck calls for a 5W-20 and he runs Mobil 1 15W-50.


IMHO that's only you and a couple of others who opt for much, much thicker oil than spec'ed, and these are observations that cannot be generalised to relfect on general public and/or most other BITOG posters and based on their knowledge and experiences.

:2cents:

Q.
 
I am using Amsoil's SSO 30w and so far I see no major differences. Car still runs like it should and my gas mileage has not suffered. I am only at about 1500miles into useage. It did sound a bit quieter at cold startups. Doesn't gargle like it used to....as much. Could be all in my head though.
 
0w-30 in 20 weight Hondas is basicly my approach. It's not because I choose it, but I already have a bunch of Mobil 1 0w-30, which is a great oil anyway. That's my advice to the person who wants 30 weight in place of 20 weight, go 0w-30 if synth price is no object, but if you look at 30 weight dino, be sure it is a good product with at least SM spec. Old or unrated generic oil would be a mistake in a nice Honda. There's a pic of a siezed example on the forum somwhere.

More technically, it actually takes a *synthetic* 5w-20 to match the cold visc of 0w-30 at near sub-zero f. Dino 5w-20 won't do it.

I see the OP is in the Southwest. I would actually just go 10w-30 dino in that climate. I can't imagine the Honda dealership there would ride you to use 20 weight, mine does not care at all. Maybe I'm mistaken about your climate, I dunno.

Dino 20 or 30 weight is a great product in general. I'd rather use it twice as often as synthetic, approx 5000 miles on dino vs 10,000 miles on synth. I change when my OLM hits 40% indicated (50% actual).
 
I became a member a little over a year ago for 2 reasons: how to avoid sludge and wanting to find out what this brown colored water was that I was putting in my vehicle. FrankN4 gives long term examples with the use of thicker weights that yield good results. If the things I fear concerning oil flow were to materialize, it would occur quickly. Instant or sort term damage for that matter, did not occur with FrankN4 decision to go thicker. The same can be said for other posters as well. My blip on the viscosity screen is when I mixed 4 quarts 5W-30 and 1 quart 5W-20. The engine developed a tick. The tick did not go away with high revs or after warm up. It also did not tick every time the car was started, just on occasion. The problem may not have been caused by using a higher weight oil, but that is when it started. This "blip" explains my concern in what exactly happens when switching to thicker weights. Today is the first example I have read about long term results regarding a Chrysler product using heavier weight oil, and much heavier at that. Grant it that his engine and mine are not the same, which can effect out the outcome.
 
Here's a helpful comparison for you to consider. This is 3 side by side UOA's on my wife's acura 3.2TL which is spec'd for 5w-20.

M1 0w-20 vs. XD3 0w-30 HDEO (almost a 40wt) vs. PZ 5w-20. All samples taken at just over 5k miles. This oil starts out at 12.4 Cst and sheared to only 10.39 in a fuel diluting honda engine that sits on our driveway idling (automatic car starter) at -30c for long periods of time.

The 0w-30 and the PZ 5w-20 were both run through a really cold canadian winters. The M1 0w-20 had light duty through a canadian summer (much like pacific NW climate). I also had an air filter issue in the 0w-30 OCI as you can see from the silicon. In my view the 0w-30 performed best. And that's in canada. In a hot climate like yours, that's what I'd be running. I switched away from the XD3 because Terry thought it had too high phosphorus for my engine. This is an HDEO issue, not a 0w-30 issue mind you.

AcuraUOA3.jpg
 
Thanks Jim for sharing that information. I may give 0 or 5W-30 a try on my next OCI (end of next month). According to my wife, the tick has not returned for a couple of weeks now.
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Can not explain why it came or went. If I can remember, I will revive this post with the results I experience.
 
No not in theory or in practice! It is perfectly safe!Their is nothing that 0W20 or 5W20 do that your 0W30 does not also do! 5W20 and 0W20 do not protect any better then 0W30,0W40,5W30,5W40! Their is nothing magical about 0W20 or 5W20. They are about provideing adaqueate protection while also boosting C.A.F.E. standards for the corperate fleet! THe same is true though of 0W30 just because it has the potential to protect better under harsh conditions does not mean itis going to do anyting for you under normal conditions. If a 20Wt. is all that is required under normal daily operation then haveing a 30Wt. in the sump is not going to do anything for you until such time that a 20Wt. would have failed to float the metal parts to keep them from contacting.So nothing lost or gained. We have seen that in vechiles recomending a 0W20 or 5W20 that wear levels are fine with them and also just as fine when other viscosities are used!So again no gained and nothing lost! Anyone that thinks you are going to see a milage difference is smokeing some really good stuff because it is not going to happen in reality!
 
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