wheel bearing/hub stuck in spindle

[carrera79]

I've got a '98 mitsu eclipse gsx and I cannot get the axles out of the hubs, which I need to change. A mechanic suggested Oxy/acetylene, which doesn't sound great to me. Any ideas on how to break these apart?

 

[xl1200dt]

slide hammer on wheel studs or an air hammer to the back of the hubs, unbolt the hub bolts but not all the way and hammer it.

 

[pickled]

I've used a gear puller and an impact in a similar situation.

 

[RH+G]

Is the axle stuck in the bearing?

 

[Eddie]

No hiden snap-rings or cir-clips?

 

[Kestas]

I wonder if any Loctite made its way into the shaft splines.

 

[ALJAMES]

If all else fails, remove brake caliper and rotor. Separate steering nuckle from tie rod end, lower ball joint, and strut. Pry axle shaft from transaxle and take entire assembly to a shop with a hydralic press to press out axle shaft from steering nuckle and bearing.

 

[alreadygone]

Best I'm understanding, you want to change hubs, save axles? Correct? If so, slide hammer's gonna be a bad idea,as is torch. I've had good experience with LOTS of PB Blaster (or equivalent) and a air impact hammer with a pointed punch bit applied to hole in center of axle. Hammer a bit then spray some more. A hand held hammer and punch are really gonna slow this process down. Another option, if you have one is a second axle nut screwed almost flush onto axle then whop the hades out of it, with full expectations of ruining spare nut!


Bob

 

[alanu]

I'm assuming your changing your CV Axles. CV Axles stuck in hubs is a common thing. As "alreadygone" mentioned use an air hammer with a punch bit.

The mechanic that suggested using oxy/acetylene is giving you frightening advice.

 

[MaximaGuy]

I would use a hammer to tap on the knuckle and see if it budges. Pl. spray a lot of PB blaster on it before trying to tap on it... I think dirt/grime has fused the axle onto the hub.

 

[artificialist]

The CV joint that is currently in the car may have messed up splines if the last person working on it didn't do the job right.

Are those the factory shafts, or some sort of reman shaft?

Also, if you can find it, BG penetrating oil works better than PB blaster.

 

[JohnBrowning]

I agree with your mechanic.In this case you would heat the inner portion of the hub not the axle it self. You would not need to use anything hotter though then propane torch.

 

[alanu]

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
I agree with your mechanic.In this case you would heat the inner portion of the hub not the axle it self. You would not need to use anything hotter though then propane torch.


The surface area of the hub is large. You would require alot of heat to make any difference for expansion to loosen up the shaft. This may compromise any rubber seals. If I ever had to train an apprentice and he attempted this procedure of heating I'd kick him out the door.

Spline cannot be messed up because in order to insert the Cv shaft it must go in relatively easy. Tapping the other end with a rubber hammer may possibly damage the CV BOOT. Yes I've encountered stubborn remans before but if the splines are damaged it will never be able to go in the hub without damaging force to the cv boot end.

If the shaft doesn't come out with a punch and hammer you'll need an airhammer with pointed punch. This is typical every day procedures for any mechanic. I've NEVER EVER had to heat a hub to take a cv joint out. Zap the end with an airhammer and it should come out like butter. On occasion some may be harder depending if you live in the rust belt.

 

[alreadygone]

OP doesn't seem concerned about gaining additional information.

Bob