My Dad's Cub Cadet Tractor has 25 hours on it so he said can you change the oil and filter, I said no problem, so I drained the oil, no problem, go too take the oil filter off with the strap type oil filter wrench, problem, will not move and the oil filter is starting to crumble, I better get this thing off or else I could be disinhereted, I try again and oil is starting to come out and it is barely moving, so I said maybe I need to try the screwdriver trick, I found a small one and stuck it through and with both hands I turned it with everything I had and it slowly, I mean slowly started to turn and I got it off.This oil filter from the factory was only on there 25 hours, I am thinking that they either did not oil the gasket or Superman down at the Kohler assembly line put it on, I am going to get him a cap style oil filter wrench tommorow. Do you guys have any ideas why this happened or has anyone else had this happen. I was soaking wet with sweat after everything was said and done, if I ever by a piece of lawn equipment brand new that has a Kohler Engine and oil filter the 1st thing I am going to do is take it off and put on a Mobil 1 Oil filter, Wix, or an Amsoil EaO Oil Filter, I would not want anyone on this board to go through the experience I had today.
Warning About Kohler Oil Filters
- Thread starter c3po
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Most Toyota's and My Dodge when new hd their filters put on my Magilla Gorilla at the factory. I am a big strong guy. Seriously my Grandmother used to tell me I was big enough to go hunt grizzlys with a switch(meaning a small thing green stick). I actualy set some Nation and Regional records in H.S. for power lifting so again I am strong. It took me an hour to get my Dodge's filter off and I changed it at 500 miles! On my Toyota Camry I was actualy lifting the engine up 1/4 wich each attempt to break the filter lose. I had to use a screw driver on my Camry's first oil change at 58 miles. I crushed the filter with my grip trying to get it off by hand.It looked like I was wringing out a wash rag!!LOL
So I am pictureing some 500lbs 7foot tall guy hanging from a 3 foot breaker bar with a closed can type oil filter wrench!!!
So I am pictureing some 500lbs 7foot tall guy hanging from a 3 foot breaker bar with a closed can type oil filter wrench!!!
No, I am 2 inches under 6 ft. and I weigh about 155 pounds, I probably now weigh 150 pounds after sweating out 5 pounds to get that oil filter off, maybe I should have had my Dad do everything and when he would go to take off the oil filter and then call me with the problem I could have said 2 things , aren't you glad you bought this machine or you should have bought a John Deere. But seriously this type of situation is ridiculous.
dnewton3
Staff member
The tight oil filter issue is not new; it happens on many brands. My OEM Duramax filter was also put on by a gorilla, and I had to destroy the filter to get it off. Worse yet, I once almost came to tears from nearly breaking my fingers trying to wrestle a FL820S off of a 4.6L Grand Marquis, with only 500 miles on the odo. I decided to try the screwdriver technique, and I still couldn't get it off. I was hosed then, because the oil was drained, the filter pierced, and the car now unable to move, and blocking the driveway. I finally had to section the filter off by cutting it, and then used needle nose vise grips to grab the inlet holes in the base, and turn it loose! It is quite possible that I exhausted the entire known English language of all it's hatefilled curse words that day.
But, I would say it's an issue of installation, and not the filter. Your thread title is about Koehler Oil Filters, but the reality is that it's likely not a fault of the filter at all, but rather the ham-fisted goober that installed it.
Changing to another brand of filter isn't going to assure this doesn't happen again; proper installation will.
But, I would say it's an issue of installation, and not the filter. Your thread title is about Koehler Oil Filters, but the reality is that it's likely not a fault of the filter at all, but rather the ham-fisted goober that installed it.
Changing to another brand of filter isn't going to assure this doesn't happen again; proper installation will.
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I've had brand new cars and trucks where I literally had to shred the filter to remove it. It's common.
Joel
Joel
Had a Buick that not only was it tight, but the factory sprayed painted the filter along with the engine. The fact I had to work thru the passenger wheel well did not make it any easier.
Kabota tractor was a little tough esp with the 3 different filters (and 5 drain plugs) underneeth I had to change.
Kabota tractor was a little tough esp with the 3 different filters (and 5 drain plugs) underneeth I had to change.
I had the same problem on a Kohler engine a few years ago. I don't think it's the gasket. My guess is that the filter was mounted on the engine with an air wrench and that oil isn't added to the engine until weeks or months later. The filter rusts onto the metal threads it mounts on. There is probably no lubrication and the treads just fuse with those of the filter.
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I just use a sheet of sandpaper and a strap wrench to get off a factory oil filter thats on too tight.
Good idea and technique. I was taught the screwdriver through the oil filter technique, over 36 years ago, by my stepfather. So obviously, some things never change. I think, we may have skipped a generation on this one.
I certainly have learned to put the new filter on lubed, half full of oil, and spun on hand tight only. This is for the poor soul, that may have to come in behind me, and change the old filter.
I have tried rags around strap wrenches, but I like the sandpaper idea, better.
I certainly have learned to put the new filter on lubed, half full of oil, and spun on hand tight only. This is for the poor soul, that may have to come in behind me, and change the old filter.
I have tried rags around strap wrenches, but I like the sandpaper idea, better.
Those insanely tight factory filters need http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999824000P or something similar.
I own one that is a perfect for most Japanese car filters, and the small filters on some American cars, plus a big one that is a perfect for the large filters found on most American cars.
I own one that is a perfect for most Japanese car filters, and the small filters on some American cars, plus a big one that is a perfect for the large filters found on most American cars.
I had the same problem with the Briggs engine on my John Deere Lawn Tractor.
My first oil change I literally destroyed the oil filter removing it. Someone at the factory really tightened it on.
After that no more problems with oil changes.
I could barely get the screwdriver in since there isn't much working space around it but that is what it took.
My first oil change I literally destroyed the oil filter removing it. Someone at the factory really tightened it on.
After that no more problems with oil changes.
I could barely get the screwdriver in since there isn't much working space around it but that is what it took.
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Add me to the list of 'first-time changed filter' destroyers. Can't imagine how/why they get 'em so tight. Any more, getting old/soft, I take my new vehicles back to the dealer for the first oil change. Let him fight with it!!
If you have room then these channel lock oil filter pliers work really well. they are $15 at home depot.
I purchased a new L130 Deere a few years ago and changed the factory filter out at 5 hours and the factory oil also. Just very anal I guess. No problems twisting it off. I put on a Deere filer last year with 10w-30 hdeo rottela t. Changed it Sunday evening and could not find the small JD filter so I went to Advance to see what they might have. They crossed checked and gave me a couple of choices. The filters were as large as my filter on my 351 windsor. I bought the M-1 filter. It was a little hard to get on but when it took of it went slowly because of the oversize nature of the filter. It did fit fine and I refilled with Shell Rotella T 15-40. Can't find 10-30 anymore. Walmart nor anyone else carries it. I change oil and filters about every 10 to 12 hours. Mr. Browning I may have to get you to come down with your cheater bar and both of us reef on the M-1 filter to get it off. Ha ha.
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I change oil and filters about every 10 to 12 hours.
Wow!! Yep, I'd say that oil ain't gettin' much chance to get broke in!!
BTW - Here's a link to a recent thread about replacement filters.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1122646&fpart=1
If you're into looking at some cross-references for replacement filters, that is. Found some $3.00 SuperTechs to replace the $12.00 Kohlers through that thread.
I change oil and filters about every 10 to 12 hours.
Wow!! Yep, I'd say that oil ain't gettin' much chance to get broke in!!
BTW - Here's a link to a recent thread about replacement filters.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1122646&fpart=1
If you're into looking at some cross-references for replacement filters, that is. Found some $3.00 SuperTechs to replace the $12.00 Kohlers through that thread.
How about that new-fangled drain valve set-up on the Kohler? If you can't figure out how it twist and pops out to drain the fluid, or do get it drained and not back up in the proper position......bye-bye oil....boom-boom engine.
On extreme filter situations....use the cap type wrench with an extention mounted to a hammer drill. The vibration brakes the seal easier.
On extreme filter situations....use the cap type wrench with an extention mounted to a hammer drill. The vibration brakes the seal easier.
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