BG Engine Purge vs. Auto-RX

[VK56VD]

From the BG website:
"BG Engine Purge is not an ordinary engine flush. It is an effective blend of solvents and dispersants which will quickly and safely remove accumulated sludge and other deposits from the engine. It can actually restore compression by removing soot and deposits from around the rings; hence, the compression rings seal in compression gases. BG Engine Purge does not contain harmful chlorinated solvents. It may be used in gasoline, diesel and rotary engines."

I wonder how it compares to Auto-RX? I know BG is a reputable company that makes excellent additives.

 

[MGregoir]

I would imagine it is closer to Amsoil flush.

 

[Audi Junkie]

lol at "effective blend of solvents". BG is motorhead crack.

 

[TurboJim]

While ARX will take longer to do it's magic (sludge disappearing act) over say a solvent it is the safer alternative to using harsh chemicals because these products don't make very good lubricants and something is always left behind even when you drain it out.

 

[VK56VD]

Originally Posted By: TurboJim
While ARX will take longer to do it's magic (sludge disappearing act) over say a solvent it is the safer alternative to using harsh chemicals because these products don't make very good lubricants and something is always left behind even when you drain it out.


"BG Engine Purge does not contain harmful chlorinated solvents"

 

[TooManyWheels]

What about other harmful solvents?

 

[Frank]

STRAIGHT FROM THEIR WEB SITE.YOU DECIDE.

BG 120
BG Engine Purge
BG Engine Purge is not an ordinary engine flush. It is an effective blend of SOLVENTS and dispersants which will quickly and safely remove accumulated sludge and other deposits from the engine. It can actually restore compression by removing soot and deposits from around the rings; hence, the compression rings seal in compression gases. BG Engine Purge does not contain harmful chlorinated solvents. It may be used in gasoline, diesel and rotary engines.

 

[MGregoir]

Chlorinated solvents corrode.

Honestly, volatile organics boil off at temperature and if you use cheap 15W-40 oil while running the flush, drain it, put in fresh oil in spec, I can't see the harm you can do. AutoRX does work but it's not the answer to everything. Harsher flushes like this, or Chemtool are good for engines that are severely sludged and need something to clean them out rather than a performance improver like AutoRX.

I think the Bilstein machine is where it is at, to be honest.

 

[Rick20]

The solvents used in the quick flushes aren't as readily evapoorative as you would think. Then again alot of the sludge monsters got that way from improperly working crankcase ventilation systems. In this case it is fairly hard for the solvent to evacuate the sump. Heck with some of the really poorly kept motors, UOA's normally show pretty high fuel dilution. If gas can't evacuate itself from the sump. these solvents won't either.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Not to mention sometimes an engine is so sludgedthat death is knocking at the door from oil starvation from the pick-up screen pluging up. In a sludge beast like that all bets are off and radical is what you need just to get the ball rolling. SO like in something like that I would actualy break a lot of my self imposed rules on flushing! I would put something like 5W20 or 0W20 in and I would add a cup of B12 each morning prior to starting the car on a cold engine. I would drive it to work then home then repeat for about 2 weeks. I would be changeing the the cheap oil filters about every 2 days. I would then at the end of two weeks I would drain that filthy mess out and add fresh cheap dino oil and a bottle of Auto-RX knowing now that at the very least the pick p screen would have enough flow to allow for a long slow cleaning wit auto-rx. I would follow the heavly sludged directions from Franks site to the letter wich means at least two clean and two rinse phases! I would use a thin dino for the cleaning phase and Diesel dino for the rinse phase's.

In the old days I would drop the pan and clean it out manualy but so many vechiles are now a royal pain to drop the pan that it is worth it on something that is close being DOA to try an extreme solvent flush first.

An even better idea though for sludged up vechiles that are close to death is to use LC20. You add 16 onces to the crank case and leave it in for the duration of the oil change. You keep adding 1 once per 1000 miles for the duration of the oil change. This is only again for sludgedup vechiles that are close to dieing an early death if something is not done. After that OCI do one ARX treatment buy the book and one rinse buy the book then go back to LC20 but at double the current treat rate printed onthe side of the bottle until the engine is perfectly clean.

When I was on a LC kick I did the above to a fellow workers car that they bought used. She never checked under the hood. Since the car was in like new shape inside and spotless outside and low miles she assumed all was good. She bought the products and I admistered them per above. It was a low milage Saab that was a lease turn in. She bought off the used lot. It was as is so she had little to lose. It cleaned her engine right up! Last i checked she was loveing that car and it is still doing fine she has the dealership change the oil and they use Saab synthetic.

I can not say enough about both LC wich is now LC20 and Auto-Rx when used seperately in an application the resutls are far better then either product could hope to achieve! in MY OPINION.

Just so people know the only reason for the solvent type products and LC20 is because of the speed with which they work. LC20 is not harmful at all like a solvent and does not thin out the oil and actualy increases the anti-oxident and solvency of the oil. It is also more cost effective for long term use then Auto-Rx wich is why I like to use both products. LC 20 to quickly get the process started;Auto-Rx for it's deep gentle slow cleaning; followed by more LC20 at lower treat rate to finish up what ARX left behind wich is usaly just a little bit mostly varnish and such. A lot of people do not consider varnish a durability issue but I do. Any visable varnish that can be seen with the naked eye on a pick-up screen is reduceing oil flow by 30% that is not even considering what visable sludge must do. To me anything that can reduce oil flow by 30% and is systemic in an engine should be dealt with. LC20 handles Varnish better then ARX.

 

[severach]

Originally Posted By: BG Website
BG Engine Purge is not an ordinary engine flush.

It works in 30 minutes so it is an ordinary engine flush. What they put in doesn't change much.

Quote:
It is an effective blend of solvents and dispersants which will quickly and safely remove accumulated sludge and other deposits from the engine.

Much like an earthquake safely removes stressed snow from a mountain.

Originally Posted By: Spartuss
I wonder how it compares to Auto-RX? I know BG is a reputable company that makes excellent additives.


There were many excellent flushes until Auto-RX came along and handed them all platters. Now we can clean engines with much less risk of destroying them. The BGEP fast flush isn't similar to the ARX slow clean so there's nothing to compare. Compare BGEP with the other fast flushes.

 

[dlafoy]

I guess my question is how many members of this board has ever ruined their engine from having sludge removed too fast by using a solvent type flush?

 

[Rabbler]

Can't say I ever lost one.

 

[Quest]

Originally Posted By: dlafoy
I guess my question is how many members of this board has ever ruined their engine from having sludge removed too fast by using a solvent type flush?


The answer is yes, at least 1.

Not mine but my client's car thx to 10-min flush from 10-min lube.

Q.

 

[panthermike]

I just started using ARX and am already surprised at how it's working.

In my girlfriends corolla, it's only 200 miles into the clean phase and some of the deposits in the oil fill hole are starting to disappear and I don't think it gets nearly as hot their as it does deep in the motor. It is also running smoother I've noticed.

I've never used a flush only tranny fluid once, but that was on a beater 88 tercel hatchback that actually turned out to be a great car. Wishing I hadn't got rid of it at these gas prices.

I have put about 100 miles(clean phase) on my 92 accord but haven't checked anything but I noticed when I changed the oil, there is plenty of varnish. Car is running very well though.

 

[severach]

I've 1.5. The 0.5 is my engine which back when I was young and _____. I flushed on several oil changes attempting to flush the evil denizens just in case there were some. The engine didn't fail immediately but was eventually rebuilt and they said that the bearing wipe was excessive for the age. I learned early on to stay away from fast flushes. Later I learn that sludge is as harmless as it is ugly until you try to move it.

The 1.0 engines was a relative's car from a lube joint quick sell. Within 50 miles the engine seized. When we took the engine apart we found that sludge clogged a galley in the oil filter mount after the oil pressure sensor keeping the warning lamp silent.

A fast flush that doesn't destroy the oil might be ok for an almost clean engine but I'd avoid them in a dirty one that might saturate the filter.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Their ar only the products that I thnk re killer unique poducts for engine cleanliness. Auto-RX, LC20 and N131 ayhng else is just solvent.

 

[BrianWC]

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Their ar only the products that I thnk re killer unique poducts for engine cleanliness. Auto-RX, LC20 and N131 ayhng else is just solvent.


I tried 131 and LC20 when they were more heavily hyped on here and I was quite unimpressed. They certainly are both the best-smelling products I've ever used, though!

AT LEAST FROM MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE (anyone else's may vary), auto-rx was the only product that I was ever able to visually document as removing anything from my SAAB's engine.

I safely flushed many an engine (well, none ever failed) before my 9-5. Flush the 9-5, though, and there's a horrible squeal whenever you first crank it after flushing and refilling.

I'd venture to guess BG's product is a tad harsher than 131 and LC20. But I doubt it's as strong as a B-12-type product.