lawnmower oil

[GMFan]

I have a 6hp B&S Commercial grade engine on my mower and it is just over 11 years old. I mow once a week for about 45 minutes about 25 times a summer. It has been neglected at periods, like not having it's oil changed for 2 or 3 seasons.

This past spring I gave it a tuneup and threw in some Pennzoil 10w40 and a little Mobil Clean 5000 (didn't have enough Pennzoil). I think the stuff was SL too which was left over from when my brother owned a Saturn that was an oil burner.

Mower still runs like a champ and it doesn't seem to be burning any of it at all. It was usually given straight 30w in the past. Oil still looks relatively clean too after 6 or so mowing's so far.

 

[FZ1]

It had about 7 hours on the dealer fill. I noticed the difference immediately after putting the synthetic in so I just kept using it. It's only about 12-13 oz. on the change.

 

[FZ1]

I change my oil in July and November. Running M1 EP 10-30. Runs smooth and stays clean.

 

[ARB1977]

Just ordered Amsoil's small engine oil for my Troy Bilt edger and Honda pusher. Its the only oil ive seen so far thats rated for both specs.

 

[nooil]

Have a john deere with 1 lung that is 24 years old. Went from straight 30 to 10w-30, was using oil so went to YB 15w-40 and now zero consumption mowing 2 acres each week. She keeps right on truckin!

 

[smithph]

Am I the only one that uses the left overs for small engines?

I maintain 5 vehicles including various family members. Many of them are 1/2 qt fills such as 4.5 qts or 6.5 qts etc. I pour the extra 1/2 qts into an old oil jug(s) and use it for small engines like lawn mowers and tractors. Usually a mix of syn and dyno ranging from 0w30 to 10w30 end up in the mower jug. Been doing this for 20 some years with no issues so far.

 

[Turk]

Originally Posted By: smithph
Am I the only one that uses the left overs for small engines?

I maintain 5 vehicles including various family members. Many of them are 1/2 qt fills such as 4.5 qts or 6.5 qts etc. I pour the extra 1/2 qts into an old oil jug(s) and use it for small engines like lawn mowers and tractors. Usually a mix of syn and dyno ranging from 0w30 to 10w30 end up in the mower jug. Been doing this for 20 some years with no issues so far.


Look at my "Cocktail" thread in this section Brother........

 

[TheTanSedan]

Bought the cheapest 21" mower with Tecumseh motor at H-D in 1998, $139.95 as I recall. Went immediately to ACE Hardware and bought [4] steel ball-bearing wheels to install on it. Have run either 10W or 5W-30 synthetic since new, with LUBE CONTROL LC-20 in oil, and FUEL POWER FP-60 in gasoline since new. Plugs changed annually, air filter once or twice annually, blade sharpened every other week (4-cuttings in season).

Mower has easily over 1,000-hours on it now. Still starts on first pull after priming. Controls wiped out in first month, zip-tied them to handle, throttle at 7/8ths at all times.

This is the fourth house. In each case I started with lot's of weeds and bare ground, no lack of leaves, twigs and the rest to chop. Mower has not led an easy life.

As this yard is so big, and because I have to cut it twice weekly, am having a friend re-engine a Snapper commercial mower for me with a B&S 6.5. Hope it lasts as long, but at least I won't have to push it. Am ready for a real mower, with a real deck and the ability to truly work as a vacuum cleaner.

Still miss my 21" 1973 Jacobsen that lasted until 2000; GREAT deck on that thing. But the 27-year old motor would barely start any more, unlike the 1962 K&S Edger that ran 41-years. Both of these received LC way back when (called MICROLUBE in those days).

I like REDLINE in the mower as well as the 1985 POWER TRIM edger I just got (and finished working the bugs out of); gonna try some Auto-Rx in it with some straight 30W to see if that helps the oil burning on the 2.5 B&S. (Found that a new design air filter fixed what may have been a rich-run problem.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Diesel 5W-40 synthetic seems to be the best oil for my push lawmowers here in Michigan.

 

[wander2039]

Originally Posted By: TheTanSedan

Mower has easily over 1,000-hours on it now. Still starts on first pull after priming. Controls wiped out in first month, zip-tied them to handle, throttle at 7/8ths at all times.


Sounds like my old mower. I've used it without any controls for the last 4 years. Prime it 5 times and always starts up. Used to be first now it's the second.. might need a spark plug.

The B&S, I think 4 or 4.5hp, has had just about every oil you can imagine. I've had it 6 years and have used Mobil 1, Pennzoil regular and syntethic and Motorcraft and a few others I can't remember. I remember once I put to much Rislone in the crankcase and sent it smoking. Drained it and refilled with Mobil 1 and it kept going. I really ought to find out it's age. I know my grandpa bought it used and used it for 2-3 years commerically. If it keeps going my son will be using it in 11 years or so. BTW is has Platnuim 5w20 in it right now.

 

[lars11]

Have a 10yr mower w a B&S sprint 40. Changed oil from straight 30 API SH to a simple 10w30 dino that was lying around and it is consuming some oil and gives off a puff of smoke when jolted.
I know the synth 10w30 recommmendation, but why does the dino 10w30 smoke?
Shouldn't it be a 30 when hot, just like the stratght 30?
Or is it much thinner due to VIIs since a mower runs hotter than 100 deg C?
Please explain.

 

[Bror Jace]

lars11, I'd guess that your 10W-30 has sheared (and fuel-diluted) down to a 20 weight. I think that's the reason why B&S uses the simplistic, outdated requirement for a straight 30.

 

[Jaymus]

I never used straight 30 in my 17.5hp B&S engine, but I did start out using 10W-30 conventional oils. Castrol GTX, Valvoline, and Super Tech. Mainly whatever was lying around or someone brought and left after I changed their oil.

Then, I gave 0W-30 GC a try. I usually mow 2-3 times a week, and each time is 2-3 yards in a row. Point being, I have actually mowed 5 hours straight only taking a 10 minute break to load up, drive literally .3 miles down the road to the next yard, and start mowing again. I've done this trying to be as hard on the GC as I could, to see if the engine would ever make any weird noises. It didn't. And, I've said this before, but GC has given me the least oil consumption of all I've tried. I've never tried a true 40 weight. I've tried Super Tech Synthetic 10W-30 and it ate it up like candy.

 

[Brett Miller]

GC is an excellent oil for small engines. I used it in my equipment until Amsoil came out with the small engine ASE.

 

[lars11]

Jace, oil is just an hour old. Shouldnt shear in that short of a time. Will put in a synthetic next and see if it is smoking too...

 

[FrankP]

TORO 5HP B&S engine 15 years old when retired for electrical reasons. No oil consumption when retired. Oil used was anything I had laying around in the garage left over form oil changes that I gathered would put in a "pour jug".

Current John Deere lawn tractor (B&S twin engine) and Honda 6hp push mower.
Still use leftover oil from oil changes. No consumption after 4 years in either engine. I however do change my oil twice a season.

 

[Propflux01]

Originally Posted By: lars11
.... but why does the dino 10w30 smoke?
Shouldn't it be a 30 when hot, just like the straight 30?
Or is it much thinner due to VIIs since a mower runs hotter than 100 deg C?
Please explain.
10w-30 is a 10w oil designed to flow like a 30w oil at 100degrees C. a straight 30 wt flows like a 30w at ANY temp. You have to keep in mind that most lawn mower engines are aluminum bore-aluminum piston which have wide clearance when cold. that 10w-30 oil is just too thin to stay behind the piston as well as the straight 30 w does. Once that 10w gets to temp, it behaves more like the straight weight. Hope that makes sense.

 

[lars11]

Ok Tim, thanks. Will a 10w30 also thin out more than a SAE30 when running hotter than 100C? Is the viscosity curve more crooked in a mineral multiweight than a straight weight?
Asking because it is smoking more when hot too.

 

[Propflux01]

Even though it 'specs' the same, it seems to me from personal experience and in my own opinion only, that a straight 30 weight is slightly thicker than a 10w-30 @ 100C. I think Tecumseh noticed this too as they used to recommend straight and not multi-vis oils. In your case, I would use the straight weight.

 

[FZ1]

I agree that the more frequent changes are probably more important than the oil used. Change mine in July and Nov.