I use the one bill posted.
that is the cats [censored]!!!
I use both large and small version.
that is the cats [censored]!!!
I use both large and small version.
Cup-type oil filter wrench
- Thread starter Jimmy9190
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i used the one bill posted also. i got it at autozone. saved my life trying to switch out my dad avalon filter. it was unbelievably tight. took an filter wrench with some major muscle grease to take it out! punctured the filter pretty badly though.
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I got a new nylon/plastic cup wrench from Napa. Fits the ProSelect filter perfectly and has a metal 3/8" fitting for my ratchet. I am changing my oil tomorrow and it ought to spin the filter off and on easily and it should last a lot longer than the metal type. It is not the exact one Bill pictured but seems to be very good quality.
Originally Posted By: Tommyboy
I've found that they're easier to get off if you don't tighten them down so hard. Hand tight is fine, and that's a wussy hand tight.
+1. You shouldn't ever need to use an oil filter wrench. If you do, you're tightening the filter down way too much. Just screw it on till it seals up against the block, and go another half turn at most. I never have the slightest trouble getting my filters off by hand, and I never have any leaks.
I've found that they're easier to get off if you don't tighten them down so hard. Hand tight is fine, and that's a wussy hand tight.
+1. You shouldn't ever need to use an oil filter wrench. If you do, you're tightening the filter down way too much. Just screw it on till it seals up against the block, and go another half turn at most. I never have the slightest trouble getting my filters off by hand, and I never have any leaks.
My biggest problem with these cup wrenches is getting the filter out of the cup itself easily.
Any ideas on how to do this more easily?
Any ideas on how to do this more easily?
Originally Posted By:
Here is what works...
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/825/img0224hs0.jpg[/IMG]
This one fits on the end of 3/8 extension and is spring loaded to hold onto the filter. Never punched a hole in a filter and grabs it securely.
That one WORKS.
(also, you'll notice how new it looks. It is about 10 years old and clean because it works WITHOUT making holes
)
I just bought this one, but I'm hesitant to use it. My Mazda 6 has a cartridge filter and the housing cap is made of plastic. I'm afraid this new wrench will gouge or round off the plastic flutes. Plastic cup wrenches bulge under the the torque and slip off of the flutes.
What do you think? Will the spring loaded filter damage the plastic cap on may Mazda?
Here is what works...
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/825/img0224hs0.jpg[/IMG]
This one fits on the end of 3/8 extension and is spring loaded to hold onto the filter. Never punched a hole in a filter and grabs it securely.
That one WORKS.
(also, you'll notice how new it looks. It is about 10 years old and clean because it works WITHOUT making holes
I just bought this one, but I'm hesitant to use it. My Mazda 6 has a cartridge filter and the housing cap is made of plastic. I'm afraid this new wrench will gouge or round off the plastic flutes. Plastic cup wrenches bulge under the the torque and slip off of the flutes.
What do you think? Will the spring loaded filter damage the plastic cap on may Mazda?
Originally Posted By: tripleM
My biggest problem with these cup wrenches is getting the filter out of the cup itself easily.
Any ideas on how to do this more easily?
I just rock it slightly back and forth and it pops out.
Quote:
Will the spring loaded filter damage the plastic cap on may Mazda?
I would NOT use it on plastic. Period. It will damage it if there is ANY resistance to movement. Those jaws clamp and distort the metal of the filter, I can just imagine what plastic would do...
Take care, Bill
My biggest problem with these cup wrenches is getting the filter out of the cup itself easily.
Any ideas on how to do this more easily?
I just rock it slightly back and forth and it pops out.
Quote:
Will the spring loaded filter damage the plastic cap on may Mazda?
I would NOT use it on plastic. Period. It will damage it if there is ANY resistance to movement. Those jaws clamp and distort the metal of the filter, I can just imagine what plastic would do...
Take care, Bill
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
Twentynine, my Dakota has the 3.9 liter v6.
I have the same spring-loaded type wrench that Bill has pictured, mine is made by Lisle Tools and I got it off a USA Tool truck. I got it when I was working at the Chrysler dealership. It works but is somewhat of a pain to use due to the angle at which my filter is mounted to the block. The cup type have been the easiest for me to remove the old filters and also to reinstall the new filters on my own engine.
I have a variety of oil filter pliers, metal band type oil filter wrenches and a number of cup type wrenches that don't fit my filter. I sometimes miss the days of seeing the Snap-On truck rolling up to the service bays. Talk about a kid in a candy store....
Yeah!!! 3.9L that's a 5.2L minus 2 cylinders. Had one in a 1998 1500 single cab pick up. No HP, no gas mileage, never broke down, but heck I was paying for an 8 cyl performance in MPG, with only 6 cyl. Swapped it in on my 2004 1500 quad cab, hemi, got a better tranny, lots more power, all for about the same or maybe even slightly better MPG.
Oil filter? You have the normal Dodge filter right? Fram number would be PH-16?
Jimmy I always used the cheap common metal strap wrench when needed. Nearest I can remember I never had a problem with filter removal. Filter installation- spin it on with my hand, go hand tight, then kinda gather up my grip strength and do a "Hulk" number on it, say like maybe another 1/4 turn. Never had one leak.
By the way let me explain "Hulk". I am a small guy 5'8", 165#. In the past ten years I have broken both arms (in seperate accidents), and my grip strength has been greatly compromised. Not nearly what the grip strength of a normal individual. So what is hand tight for me would not be nearly as tight for you.
Long story short, one of those el-cheapo metal strap wrenches would work pretty good for you. You won't be able to slap it on in any position. I think the truth of it is almost any wrench would work for you, it turns into what "feels" best in your hand.
Twentynine, my Dakota has the 3.9 liter v6.
I have the same spring-loaded type wrench that Bill has pictured, mine is made by Lisle Tools and I got it off a USA Tool truck. I got it when I was working at the Chrysler dealership. It works but is somewhat of a pain to use due to the angle at which my filter is mounted to the block. The cup type have been the easiest for me to remove the old filters and also to reinstall the new filters on my own engine.
I have a variety of oil filter pliers, metal band type oil filter wrenches and a number of cup type wrenches that don't fit my filter. I sometimes miss the days of seeing the Snap-On truck rolling up to the service bays. Talk about a kid in a candy store....
Yeah!!! 3.9L that's a 5.2L minus 2 cylinders. Had one in a 1998 1500 single cab pick up. No HP, no gas mileage, never broke down, but heck I was paying for an 8 cyl performance in MPG, with only 6 cyl. Swapped it in on my 2004 1500 quad cab, hemi, got a better tranny, lots more power, all for about the same or maybe even slightly better MPG.
Oil filter? You have the normal Dodge filter right? Fram number would be PH-16?
Jimmy I always used the cheap common metal strap wrench when needed. Nearest I can remember I never had a problem with filter removal. Filter installation- spin it on with my hand, go hand tight, then kinda gather up my grip strength and do a "Hulk" number on it, say like maybe another 1/4 turn. Never had one leak.
By the way let me explain "Hulk". I am a small guy 5'8", 165#. In the past ten years I have broken both arms (in seperate accidents), and my grip strength has been greatly compromised. Not nearly what the grip strength of a normal individual. So what is hand tight for me would not be nearly as tight for you.
Long story short, one of those el-cheapo metal strap wrenches would work pretty good for you. You won't be able to slap it on in any position. I think the truth of it is almost any wrench would work for you, it turns into what "feels" best in your hand.
Personally I like the little V6 in my Dakota. It runs very well and is an engine that I can still work on without having a computer and electrical engineering degree. It has a distributor, cap and rotor ignition which to me is simpler and more reliable than modern iginition systems. It has some electrical sensors but not an inordinate amount of computer and electronic regulation. It gets good gas mileage and is fast enough for me. The 5 speed manual makes it fun to drive and connects me to the experience of driving more than an auto would. The truck is very solid and heavy and has a very good ride quality for a pickup truck. I hope to keep it for a long time.
I don't use Fram filters. I have been using Purolator PP until now. Today I am trying out the Wix-made Napa ProSelect #21085. I change my oil on a very strict 3K interval so it should do just fine.
To get the filter out of the cup, I just leave the filter on the filter mount for the last few turns then just rock the ratchet back and forth and it snaps right off. Then just remove the filter by hand. The plastic wrench helps me to tighten the filter too, just a few turns of the ratchet after the gasket contacts the block. Then just move the ratchet at an angle away from the filter and the wrench comes right off.
Maybe it's just me but the cup type wrenches have always worked best for me. Speaking of which, I'm headed out now to change my oil. It's a nice sunny warm day here in Florida and life is good...
I don't use Fram filters. I have been using Purolator PP until now. Today I am trying out the Wix-made Napa ProSelect #21085. I change my oil on a very strict 3K interval so it should do just fine.
To get the filter out of the cup, I just leave the filter on the filter mount for the last few turns then just rock the ratchet back and forth and it snaps right off. Then just remove the filter by hand. The plastic wrench helps me to tighten the filter too, just a few turns of the ratchet after the gasket contacts the block. Then just move the ratchet at an angle away from the filter and the wrench comes right off.
Maybe it's just me but the cup type wrenches have always worked best for me. Speaking of which, I'm headed out now to change my oil. It's a nice sunny warm day here in Florida and life is good...
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I don't use Fram filters. I have been using Purolator PP until now. Today I am trying out the Wix-made Napa ProSelect #21085. I change my oil on a very strict 3K interval so it should do just fine.
Hold on Jimmy, not accussing you of using the orange can of death. I merely referenced fram to relate size and service comparison. Everybody knows PH-16 is a Dodge filter, just like what is it PH-5 is a chevy and PH-1 is ford.
I had an auto in my 1500 and admittedly it was the weak link in the truck. But a true Dodge truck fan I am, on my 3rd one. The 3.9L in my truck maybe because of the tranny, extra weight, or the sissy 3.55 gears, never had much power. Not talking speed, pulling power. Towing a boat, 3500# was a huge load and the truck bogged down terribly. I tried undrive pulleys, super duper air filters, super duper lubes, 180* thermostat, but it just couldn't do the job. Now that little ole 3.9L never broke not one time, didn't burn, leak or use no oil, like I said solid.
I don't use Fram filters. I have been using Purolator PP until now. Today I am trying out the Wix-made Napa ProSelect #21085. I change my oil on a very strict 3K interval so it should do just fine.
Hold on Jimmy, not accussing you of using the orange can of death. I merely referenced fram to relate size and service comparison. Everybody knows PH-16 is a Dodge filter, just like what is it PH-5 is a chevy and PH-1 is ford.
I had an auto in my 1500 and admittedly it was the weak link in the truck. But a true Dodge truck fan I am, on my 3rd one. The 3.9L in my truck maybe because of the tranny, extra weight, or the sissy 3.55 gears, never had much power. Not talking speed, pulling power. Towing a boat, 3500# was a huge load and the truck bogged down terribly. I tried undrive pulleys, super duper air filters, super duper lubes, 180* thermostat, but it just couldn't do the job. Now that little ole 3.9L never broke not one time, didn't burn, leak or use no oil, like I said solid.
Yes I know the feeling. My truck doesn't like to haul heavy loads either. I never towed anything with it but I carried a large round bale of hay for a friend once and the truck carried it OK but we didn't get going very fast. As a rule I don't do a lot of heavy hauling. This is my 3rd Dodge also, it's my 2nd Dakota and I had a 2003 Ram full size a few years ago. That truck had a ton of hauling power and capacity, and at the time my wife and I owned horses and I had a need for a full size truck. I traded it when I got out of the horse business.
My new cup wrench worked very well at installing my new filter, but it kept slipping when I tried to use it to remove the old PP filter. I think I tightened the PP a little too tight last time. I really had to mangle it with oil filter pliers to get it loose, and I wound up with a nasty oily mess. I tightened the new filter maybe half a turn after it contacted the block and there were no leaks. So I left well enough alone.
My new cup wrench worked very well at installing my new filter, but it kept slipping when I tried to use it to remove the old PP filter. I think I tightened the PP a little too tight last time. I really had to mangle it with oil filter pliers to get it loose, and I wound up with a nasty oily mess. I tightened the new filter maybe half a turn after it contacted the block and there were no leaks. So I left well enough alone.
Who sells an excellent thermo-plastic cup wrench for a 76mm 16 flute cartridge cover?
I got mine at Napa, but it's 15 flutes and 75mm I think. They probably have yours too. If not they can probably order it in.
Thanks jimmy. Will check out NAPA
I take off the ratchet, poke a screwdriver through the hole, and tap with a hammer until the filter pops free.
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I don't use Fram filters. I have been using Purolator PP until now. Today I am trying out the Wix-made Napa ProSelect #21085. I change my oil on a very strict 3K interval so it should do just fine.
Hey jimmy,
look at your 21085. Is it painted all white??? or does the lip on the bottom of the filter non painted????
Painted all white is Gastonia, USA made. My wifes relatives makes the "non painted lip" Yes yes you guessed it made in China
I noticed the threads are better on the chinese made NAPA filters but I have no idea of the quality of the media inside.
I think majority of all silver line "pro select" Napa filters are made in china. Not sure about the gold line. I bought a case of gold filters for my XRS matrix. That box had the USA made filters.
Nothing wrong with fram. My shop that has existed since the 70's have used them with no issues. The reason why alot of shops use NAPA (me included) is because they are extremely cheap when you buy them by the case. The quality is good but I've had several thread issues with Napa filters compared to fram.
AS for your dakota. If you ever have issues with power, swap out your coil. I've encountered several chrysler products ram p/u, cherokee, dakota's that had lack of power or wierd bogging issues. Tested everything under the sun. Coil was within spec yet it ran horribly. Coil was the culprit on all 3 instances. Call me unlucky or call it a trend.......
I don't use Fram filters. I have been using Purolator PP until now. Today I am trying out the Wix-made Napa ProSelect #21085. I change my oil on a very strict 3K interval so it should do just fine.
Hey jimmy,
look at your 21085. Is it painted all white??? or does the lip on the bottom of the filter non painted????
Painted all white is Gastonia, USA made. My wifes relatives makes the "non painted lip" Yes yes you guessed it made in China
I noticed the threads are better on the chinese made NAPA filters but I have no idea of the quality of the media inside.
I think majority of all silver line "pro select" Napa filters are made in china. Not sure about the gold line. I bought a case of gold filters for my XRS matrix. That box had the USA made filters.
Nothing wrong with fram. My shop that has existed since the 70's have used them with no issues. The reason why alot of shops use NAPA (me included) is because they are extremely cheap when you buy them by the case. The quality is good but I've had several thread issues with Napa filters compared to fram.
AS for your dakota. If you ever have issues with power, swap out your coil. I've encountered several chrysler products ram p/u, cherokee, dakota's that had lack of power or wierd bogging issues. Tested everything under the sun. Coil was within spec yet it ran horribly. Coil was the culprit on all 3 instances. Call me unlucky or call it a trend.......
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Originally Posted By: alanu
I think majority of all silver line "pro select" Napa filters are made in china. Not sure about the gold line. I bought a case of gold filters for my XRS matrix. That box had the USA made filters.
NAPA Golds are Wixes. Not all are from NC, but always a good filter.
I think majority of all silver line "pro select" Napa filters are made in china. Not sure about the gold line. I bought a case of gold filters for my XRS matrix. That box had the USA made filters.
NAPA Golds are Wixes. Not all are from NC, but always a good filter.
If you look at all of the proselect Napa filters they use to all say Gastonia, USA.
Alot of my customers never request any filter make. According to my Napa rep the proselects are suppose to be all wix aswell. I dont use many napa golds but they are reasonably priced.
Alot of my customers never request any filter make. According to my Napa rep the proselects are suppose to be all wix aswell. I dont use many napa golds but they are reasonably priced.
Thanks for the info. The filter I put on yesterday is painted all white, had the Napa logo ProSelect decal and it said "Affinia" and "Gastonia, NC" on the box. It also had what appears to be a US build code printed on it, with a build date of May 15. I had posted in the Oil Filter section to try to find out where the ProSelect is manufactured. According to Pete C. they are made here in the states but no one would say exactly where. Apparently a number of different Wix factories make ProSelects and the other Wix filters too. I even emailed WIx and got a fairly cryptic response that just said they are "made at a number of different facilities."
Thanks Alan for the info about the coil. So far, knock on wood, my little 3.9 is running well but I'll surely keep that in mind if I have problems later.
Thanks Alan for the info about the coil. So far, knock on wood, my little 3.9 is running well but I'll surely keep that in mind if I have problems later.
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