2.7 Chrysler oil recommendation (sludge problems)

J

jeffsa12

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Jun 6, 2008
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Location
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I recently purchased a 2001 Chrysler Sabering with the 2.7 DOHC V6. I researched this engine after the purchase to find a lot of info regarding premature engine failures related to oil sludging.

This car has 117000 miles on it, and I am looking for a recommendation of oil. I have found a list of oils that include Mobile 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40, along with a long list of synthetics.

As I understand, this engine is VERY sensitive to FREQUENT oil changes regardless of syn or min based oil because of inadequate oil volume.

This engine has sludge buildup in the oil filler cap that tells me that the rest of it is probably sludged up also. The PCV was not functioning until I cleaned out the valve cover breather and PCV valve.

This car is in excellent condition and also runs, sounds, drives great.

Any input would be greatly appreciated...
 
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Let me be the first to roast you for "Mobile 1". If no one trumps me in the time alloted, that is.
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Mobil 1 is a synthetic.

Anyway, I think you've found the main issue with that engine, the PCV system.

The rest, I'll leave to the BITOG learning curve experience
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I think I would consider doing a clean up using Auto RX as a start. I would then use a quality oil such as Pennzoil (yellow bottle), GTX, Synpower or ?? in the viscosity recommended by the owners manual. I would also follow the owners manual as to the OCI mile oil changes depending on the type of driving you do.
 
I would consider an internal engine clean. Autorx is good. Or what I have done is add a pint of MMO ( marvel mystery oil)200 miles before I change it. Yes I own a 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7. I would not go beyond 3,000 mile oil changes on any oil.
I use Valvoline Maxlife 5W30. 2500 - 3000 mile changes.
There is an updated PCV valve you can get from the dealer.The PCV valve hose deteriorates as well and can collapse.
 
I would put a For Sale sign in it ASAP and buy something more reliable..The 2.7 engine is nothing but trouble..Everybody I knew who had the 2.7 refuses to buy another Chrysler product ever..I would sell it before it becomes a money pit which it will.
 
Father in law bought a used one in 2000 as well with about 20k miles on it. Ran 10k mile changes with M1 5w30 on it with out issues up to 120k miles and traded it in on an equinox.

Only problems he had was starter, and replaced the belts.
The thing did smoke when I was behind him after about 75k miles.

I would use autorex to clean it up and run m1 with 5k mile changes.

Definitly not the best engine chrysler has ever made, but they still run the 2.7 in the 300, magnum and sebring.
 
Knowing what I've learned about these engines, I'd just choose an SM grade synthetic, and change it every 5k miles. I realize that this would probably amount to substantial overkill, but when an engine has a rep like this one does, personally, I'd stay as far away from the boundaries as I could without being totally ridiculous.
 
Take it from someone who has owned one.

You do NOT use conventional in the 2002 and earlier 2.7 Chrysler sludge engines. Your engine must have already been using synthetic to have not sludged.

Any synthetic will be fine at 5k OCI's. I used Mobil1 5W-30 in ours, because I got a deal on it. GC 0W-30 would hold up well in these sludge engines.
 
Originally Posted By: jeffsa12
I recently purchased a 2001 Chrysler Sabering with the 2.7 DOHC V6. I researched this engine after the purchase to find a lot of info regarding premature engine failures related to oil sludging.

This car has 117000 miles on it, and I am looking for a recommendation of oil. I have found a list of oils that include Mobile 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40, along with a long list of synthetic

As I understand, this engine is VERY sensitive to FREQUENT oil changes regardless of syn or min based oil because of inadequate oil volume.

This engine has sludge buildup in the oil filler cap that tells me that the rest of it is probably sludged up also. The PCV was not functioning until I cleaned out the valve cover breather and PCV valve.

This car is in excellent condition and also runs, sounds, drives great.

Any input would be greatly appreciated...




jeffsa12,

I frequent issue of the sludge problem in Chrysler cars/trucks is due to allot of factors including not changing the oil on schedule. Another parts of it is that the driver doesn't let the hot get hot enough to burn off excess moisture underneath the oil filler cap. This is an easy fix as all one has to do is drive the car enough for the engine gets to operating temperature to burn off that moisture.

For myself I only drive my Dodge Durango every other day so on Sundays I take my truck for a nice easy ride on the freeway to get that moisture burned off. My delaership as a precaution gives my V-8 a engine flushing once per year. This is what I suggest for you.

For you I'd switch to using a synthetic oil like M1 or any other of you choice will suffice and once per year have you mechanic flush out the engine well. To some degree all engines get a little sludge no matter what. How much I can't say.

Durango
 
Vaux3 has over 200K on his, so I asked him for a recommendation when my kid picked up an Intrepid with a 2.7. So I am using Mobil 1 10W 30 High Milage on that recommendation.
 
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I have a 2001 2.7 liter Sebring. It has almost 90k miles. I removed the oil filer cap (never noticed anything before but just got curious) and it was extremely clean without any varnish either. I have used GTX 10W30 (although 5W30 was recommended) for about 70K at 5K OCI and then switched to Syntec 10W30 at 7.5K after I read about sludging issues. I changed the PCV valve for the first time at 85K miles. It has seen mostly highway miles so no not real severe service.
 
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I have an 06 Sebring with the 2.7L. I do 3 to 4K mile OCI's with GrpIII oil that I find on sale. Helps to keep the costs down. I also check the PCV at every oil change and closely monitor the coolant level. At near 60k miles no problems except an occasional lifter tap after the motor has been run for several hours. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will last beyond 120K. Wife puts about 35k miles a year on the car.
 
On an '01 2.7, I'd ARX it twice (perhaps even thrice), and then run nothing but a full synthetic in it at no longer than 5k OCIs.

Chrysler techs hate working on all 2.7s, but the earlier ones such as yours are just brutal. Casting problems leave the oil sitting in the top end to cook away.
 
My son bought a 2000 Chrysler Concord with a 2.7 engine. The car has 138,000 miles on it. The previous owner only had it for 6 months and never changed the oil. I changed the oil with synthetic and put some MMO in it. The oil was black, but no signs of moisture. I also changed coolant and the coolant looked old. From the looks of what I could see under the oil cap the engine looked new. Not even varnish. The car runs like a dream. I read about the 2.7 and I am worried. I thought about having the water pump and timing chain changed for planned maintenance, but it would cost more than he paid for the car. Could he just be lucky? Will we get warning signs before the timing chain breaks or the engine dies?
 
Owned a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with the infamous 2.7. I never worried about a car so much in my life. Life was hard, money was very tight, and I was required to drive to survive.
Timing chain, tensioners and the specter of sludging became constant concerns.
For the sludge struggle, a mechanic relative said to simply use seafoam in the oil a few days/couple hundred miles before a change. I did that for a while and then just switched to synth.
I've learned a lot since then.
 
Anyone concerned about sludging, in any make/model... do an oil change with name brand synthetic oil (mfg recommended viscosity) and see how quickly the new oil turns color. This will give a fair idea of how much gunk is in there. Several short changes should provide enough cleaning that near-normal intervals can be resumed.
 
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