)How to remove stuck hub nut...?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
99
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Well, before I take my car in ('95 Ford Aspire) to fix the front wheel bearings I thought I'd give it one more try myself. I can't get the front hub nut loose! I'm using a 30mm socket on a 1/2" breaker bar w/ ~a 3 inch cheater pipe! It wont budge! Maybe it got so hot the thing welded iteslf... anyway, any other suggestions? I could try barrowing an impact wrench from someone. I'm not sure if using my angle grinder w/ cutoff wheel is the way to go. Any suggestions? thanks....
 
450+ foot lb impact will do the job. If you have torches you can heat the nut and try your breaker bar. Before you go at it again though be sure to soak the [censored] out of it with some penetrating oil. Good luck!! FYI- I used to do the jump on it routine before having quality tools. It always ended in me grapefruiting my ankles and/or getting hit in the nads a few times by either the bar bouncing off the pavement or my poor balance.
 
Last edited:
Same thing happened to me on my 74 Beetle. Breaker bar with a cheater bar and some jumping only yeilded 2 split sockets and no removed nut.

Drove it down to Pep Boys and a tech spent about 12 seconds with his air impact and off it came.
 
You just need more leverage. Assuming your breaker bar + cheater pipe combo gives you a combined length of 3 feet, and you weigh 200 pounds, you are looking close to 600 lb-ft of torque if you momentarily stood on the end of the pipe. Jouncing on the end will yield even more. Just make sure your socket is a high quality one, cheaper ones might just split.
 
Originally Posted By: pickled
450+ foot lb impact will do the job. If you have torches you can heat the nut and try your breaker bar. Before you go at it again though be sure to soak the [censored] out of it with some penetrating oil. Good luck!! FYI- I used to do the jump on it routine before having quality tools. It always ended in me grapefruiting my ankles and/or getting hit in the nads a few times by either the bar bouncing off the pavement or my poor balance.



Gotta love the impacts.
13.gif
 
How long is your piece of pipe on the breaker bar. If its 3-4 feet you should have great leverage.

But remember an impact wrench beats at it, not just one big impact. So its different than a long pipe on a breaker bar.
 
My son's '68 VW bug had a rear hub nut I couldn't get off with a 6' cheater pipe until I heated it red hot with a torch.
 
Thanks for the replies...
I've sprayed the heck out of it w/ PB blaster, tried a little of my propane torch, and barrowed my friends Craftsman electric, industrial impact wrench. Nothing! Is there a chance that it's reverse threaded? I would think my Chiltons manual would say if it was.
The shotgun idea is starting to make sense to me!
 
Had the bearing changed on the Vue today...mechanic said he needed a torch to get the 2 pieces separated...I know you are talking the nut but might need some heat



Goose
34.gif
 
If it's 'frozen' heat it up a bit (not too much) if possible, soak with penetrating oil, use a hammer and punch (not too hard) around the face of the nut, more penetrating oil, and a wrench with moderate hammering if an impact wrench isn't available. Try the breaker bar again, do the rest again if it doesn't budge. Cut it off if needed, provided you can get another one, instead of heating the assembly red hot and jumping on a long breaker bar.
 
on my 11 second fairweather daily driven 65 beetle I use a 3/4 breaker bar with the hydraulic jack handle to crack it loose. Heating the nut may effect hardening of the axles. Keep the tire on with blocks for the tires then do the simple breaker bar method (3/4).

I've never had issues breaking loose axle nuts. Just pray you dont slip and round the edges of the nut. 1/2 impact should always work. Once in a blue moon big bertha (my snap on 3/4 gun)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top