I'm a pipefitter/welder by trade.I tig weld a 1/4" TOL (thread- o- let)inside the pan and use a 1/4" plug for the drain.
Adding drain plug to trans pan?
- Thread starter wagsg
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If you decide to use one of these B&M type kits, replace the nylon washers with copper oil drain plug washers. They will seal tightly without welding and won't break down over time like the nylon washers do. If you get one of the kits with the bolt plug, you can get another copper washer for that size to supplement the o-ring seal as well.
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Not sure with the clearance on your pans but this is what I used on my old Caprice. Worked perfect.
B&M Drain Pan Kit
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Not sure with the clearance on your pans but this is what I used on my old Caprice. Worked perfect.
B&M Drain Pan Kit
Originally Posted by Kestas
I don't like the kits. For the one I bought they use pipe thread and o-ring for sealing. The o-ring gets horribly mushed.
Lucky for me I have a box full of drain plugs with the rubber seal integrated into it. (They were test parts tossed after evaluation.) I also have a bunch of matching nuts. After drilling the hole in the pan I braze a nut on the hole for my drain setup.
If the DIYer has access to brazing, all they have to do is buy one of these drain plugs and braze the proper nut onto the hole for a robust drain plug - better than the kit.
Easy enough to buy a brass 3/8 female pipe coupler, drill hole thru pan side and braze it into the steel pan or even solder it on. Either make hole big enough to pass through the entire diameter of the female pipe fitting or just surface braze it. Then use NPT pipe plug with teflon tape to seal it.
The brass coupling could be face brazed on the outside of the side of the pan, so nothing would interfere with anything on the inside of the trans.
I would NOT stick this thing on the bottom of the pan.
I don't like the kits. For the one I bought they use pipe thread and o-ring for sealing. The o-ring gets horribly mushed.
Lucky for me I have a box full of drain plugs with the rubber seal integrated into it. (They were test parts tossed after evaluation.) I also have a bunch of matching nuts. After drilling the hole in the pan I braze a nut on the hole for my drain setup.
If the DIYer has access to brazing, all they have to do is buy one of these drain plugs and braze the proper nut onto the hole for a robust drain plug - better than the kit.
Easy enough to buy a brass 3/8 female pipe coupler, drill hole thru pan side and braze it into the steel pan or even solder it on. Either make hole big enough to pass through the entire diameter of the female pipe fitting or just surface braze it. Then use NPT pipe plug with teflon tape to seal it.
The brass coupling could be face brazed on the outside of the side of the pan, so nothing would interfere with anything on the inside of the trans.
I would NOT stick this thing on the bottom of the pan.
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Even though I hate Dorman parts, I would use one of their aftermarket pans that have a drain bolt (but install my own better bolt gasket, as per the reviews).
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Even though I hate Dorman parts, I would use one of their aftermarket pans that have a drain bolt (but install my own better bolt gasket, as per the reviews).
+1
Even though I hate Dorman parts, I would use one of their aftermarket pans that have a drain bolt (but install my own better bolt gasket, as per the reviews).
+1
I used a NAPA kit in an '11 Focus. Took paste and some crush washers to make it not leak. Don't recommend.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Used them for years - just put one on the Tahoe after looking around where there was a clear spot in a corner.
Based on where I put it - will be best to put my ramps on the rear wheels - easy enough and gives you more options.
I always toss the nylon seal and use copper washers - no leaks and you can get a bit tighter so that only the NPT drain plug spins when pulling.
Based on where I put it - will be best to put my ramps on the rear wheels - easy enough and gives you more options.
I always toss the nylon seal and use copper washers - no leaks and you can get a bit tighter so that only the NPT drain plug spins when pulling.
Originally Posted by 4WD
Used them for years - just put one on the Tahoe after looking around where there was a clear spot in a corner.
Based on where I put it - will be best to put my ramps on the rear wheels - easy enough and gives you more options.
I always toss the nylon seal and use copper washers - no leaks and you can get a bit tighter so that only the NPT drain plug spins when pulling.
Even if the Tahoe had a transmission pan drain bolt, cooler line exchanges are still the way to go. One tiny clip to remove the top pipe on the passenger side of the radiator. Attach a barb, a clear hose to a pan. Turn on the truck and pump out a few quarts via the transmissions oil pump through the return line. Refill. Repeat. You could fully exchange all the fluid in 30 mins rather than blending. And thats the best time to swap the filter. When the fluid is clean.
Used them for years - just put one on the Tahoe after looking around where there was a clear spot in a corner.
Based on where I put it - will be best to put my ramps on the rear wheels - easy enough and gives you more options.
I always toss the nylon seal and use copper washers - no leaks and you can get a bit tighter so that only the NPT drain plug spins when pulling.
Even if the Tahoe had a transmission pan drain bolt, cooler line exchanges are still the way to go. One tiny clip to remove the top pipe on the passenger side of the radiator. Attach a barb, a clear hose to a pan. Turn on the truck and pump out a few quarts via the transmissions oil pump through the return line. Refill. Repeat. You could fully exchange all the fluid in 30 mins rather than blending. And thats the best time to swap the filter. When the fluid is clean.
Just do like I did, weld a 1/4 thread o let to the pan and use a 1/4 plug. If you can't weld it, I'm sure there are plenty of shops out there that will weld it for you.
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