Oil Question - 2005 Cummins 5.9 Turbo Diesel

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
2
Location
Bucks County, PA
This is my First post and I haven't found an answer to my searching

I have a 2005 Dodge Ram with the 5.9 CTD. It now has 20k on the Truck. I have been using the Mopar Factory Dino Oil up till now to allow for break-in. I have been changing the oil every 3K Miles considering its normal use.

I primarily use this truck to haul a ~3000Lbs Truck Camper and tow a Jeep on a Car Hauler. Total gross weight ~16000Lbs

I am planning a cross country trip this coming August with this configuration.

I would like to switch to a Synth Oil at the next change for better protection. I am not after Longer intervals rather best protection. I have noticed that several of the "Diesel" oils are now rated with CJ-4. I assume this is for the newer "Clean" engines. Is there a down-side using CJ-4 for my application?

I am looking for recommendations for my application and your thoughts

Thanks in advance
 
You can run CJ-4 oils without worry in your 05, they are backward compatible. The 6BT series of engines are very durable and are "easy" on the oil. For your application just about any good 5w40 like Schaeffers, RTS, Delo (if you can find it) Devlac will all be great oils and allow you to run 5k drains without making a dent in what that oil is capable of.

I'd recommend running a decent filter as well, stay away from the bargain basement filters. Wix (NAPA), Donaldson, Baldwin, LuberFiner are common HD filters and are all built well. Fleetgaurd is another good choice.

And welcome aboard
 
Delo 5W40 produces some nice results- I run my truck hard, and just pulled a sample for 7500 miles...14 ppm iron, aluminum 1, lead, 2 and silicon 5 ppm (afe PG7)
Funny thing though, I thought the synthetic Delo would have Moly and boron in large amounts and it has none of those. I guess they use other additives.
 
Go at least 5000 miles. If you're doing all freeway, go 7500 miles without worrying.
 
Synth oil will not give any better protection than the last few grades of HDEOs. There is no reason to run a syn oil and change it at your oil change intervals. The greatest thing you can do for your engine is to install a pyrometer so you can moniter your right foot and cool down before turning off the engine "if you do not have one installed"
 
Gentlemen

Many Thanks for your replies

1040 WreckerMan

I have been using Mobil 1 Filters but I will check availability of the ones you suggested. I will also look into your oil suggestions as well

D-Roc

I see in your signature that you are using a By-Pass filter as well. Do you think that "improves" the findings that you noted?

wcbcruzer

I took the path of least risk in terms of my OCI's I will get a Blackstone Analysis after the second run of synth as not to confuse the results. Thanks

Steve S

I will extend my OCI's to be more in line with others suggestions. I have Gauges on my to-do list for the purposes you suggest. I tend to run the Truck around 1700RPM as it seems to be the most efficient in that range. I do let the truck run for several minutes before turning it off.

Louie's gone fishing

Yes indeed, I plan on keeping this truck for a long,long time. I tend to baby it for that very reason. That is why I posted initially as I did.

Here is a view of the Set-up

Thanks Again
 
Originally Posted By: Deaver
Gentlemen

Many Thanks for your replies

1040 WreckerMan

I have been using Mobil 1 Filters but I will check availability of the ones you suggested. I will also look into your oil suggestions as well

D-Roc

I see in your signature that you are using a By-Pass filter as well. Do you think that "improves" the findings that you noted?

wcbcruzer

I took the path of least risk in terms of my OCI's I will get a Blackstone Analysis after the second run of synth as not to confuse the results. Thanks

Steve S

I will extend my OCI's to be more in line with others suggestions. I have Gauges on my to-do list for the purposes you suggest. I tend to run the Truck around 1700RPM as it seems to be the most efficient in that range. I do let the truck run for several minutes before turning it off.

Louie's gone fishing

Yes indeed, I plan on keeping this truck for a long,long time. I tend to baby it for that very reason. That is why I posted initially as I did.

Here is a view of the Set-up

Thanks Again


I know it cut my soot down...soot was an issue for me early on, I think it contributed to some of my higher wear numbers in certain oil changes (confirmed by UOA) Do I think it allows for less wear? Maybe over the long haul...I have long been an advocate of regular oil changes- I just can't bring myself to extend very far (a couple thousand maybe). But with my last readings, maybe I will go longer. We'll see. I think I would go longer for sure if I had an aftermarket fuel pump/filters. I kinda like doing everything at once- air, oil, fuel, greasing...that's why I stay close to the OEM interval for changes of the above named maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: Deaver
........Yes indeed, I plan on keeping this truck for a long,long time. I tend to baby it for that very reason. That is why I posted initially as I did.

Here is a view of the Set-up

Thanks Again


Looks good! How come campers on pickups are not as popular as they used to be?
 
I have been using ROTELLA 15W-40 with Amsoil EaO [?] filters, changing that and fuel filter at around 5-6000. My truck, solo, is at 7,300# and with trailer the whole rig is 15,000+.

Mine is an early '04 305/555 motor; I specifically sought out this combo for long life and economy (2wd, 6-speed, etc).

Truck had 120,000 when I bought it, now at 135,000. I need to have valve adjustment done, and will then run an ARX regimen. Have UOA sample I need to send off.

I used to run REDLINE in everything, but, with this motor and my decision to run short (under 10k) intervals, I'm sticking with dino and LC-20 and FP-3000.

These motors have a great reputation for being easy on oil. My only changes from stock are a RokkTech muffler and an Amsoil EaA air filter. I am getting 19 mpg in town, 15 mpg towing, and 22 mpg solo (68 mph).

I sure admire those Lance campers.
 
Originally Posted By: Deaver
This is my First post and I haven't found an answer to my searching

I have a 2005 Dodge Ram with the 5.9 CTD. It now has 20k on the Truck. I have been using the Mopar Factory Dino Oil up till now to allow for break-in. I have been changing the oil every 3K Miles considering its normal use.



My dad has a 1st gen 12V 5.9L Cummins. He has 371K on it and has been running Rotella 15W40 since the beginning. His truck still runs great. I have no doubt he'll get a million miles out of his engine. He really likes the Rotella oil even though it is not a synthetic. He changes the oil every 5,000 miles on his Cummins.
 
Use any popular diesel oil like suggested here and you'll be just fine. Since you're going to be doing mostly highway miles your oil will last a long time. Synthetic isn't needed either (more for start up and winter protection).
 
Last edited:
I can see some merit to using synthetic in the cold months where you are at. Warmer months I would use 15w40 rotella, delo, delvac or something similar to save a couple bucks. There is nothing wrong with mobil 1 filters. I think you could safely add mobil 1 filters to a list of good filters for the cummins diesel. There is others but napa, wix, fleetguard, and mobil 1 filters are the easiest to come by in my neck of the woods.
 
DEAVER,

According to Mr. Dennis Hurst, the Chief Engineer & head of the Cummins Engine Plant in Columbus, IN. (where our engines are built), your engine is designed to run most efficiently in the 1800-1900 rpm range.
"Babying" your engine is not the best thing you can do for it. You, occasionally need to "work" the engine. Otherwise, you may notice things like injector knock, which occurs when carbon builds up on the injector tips & difuses the spray pattern of the injector. That spray pattern is critical to how the combustion event takes place & how the engine works. I, along with others, have experienced the injector knock. Mine occurred between idle & 1400 rpms. One injector made a knocking sound.

I started running a fuel additive & not much happened. Then, I hitched up my trailer & towed it to Palmdale, CA. for a diesel drag race. The last leg of the trip required hard towing up & down hills at higher speeds. When I got to the race track, I noticed that the knock was gone. The harder driving burned off the carbon depostis & the engine ran great, again.

Every once in awhile, I would recommend running the heck out of the engine if you are not towing regularly. Your engine will thank you for it. You will not hurt the engine. There are many million+ mile engines out there. Most of them were driven hard, towing commercially.

Joe Fihn
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top