I'm looking for fenders to go onto my 05 Jamis Aurora touring bike. I have not the first clue what to look for with fenders, so any help would be appreciated.
Fender Recommendations
- Thread starter sciphi
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I use and very much like easily removable SKS fenders during the rainy season. I don't care much for a brown mud trail...
How do these things attach? Got a wet butt crack.
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A wetback mountain joke is lurking somewhere...
Front fender:
A small attachment is anchored in the bottom end of the steering tube. The fender is simply slid into place and can be removed with the push of a tab.
Rear fender:
The rear fender is mounted via a quick-release clamp to the seat post. This fender can also be removed and mounted within seconds. The angle of the fender may be adjustable, depending on the model.
Topeak makes the same kind of fender system for most bikes. REI has usually SKS and Topeak in stock.
Front fender:
A small attachment is anchored in the bottom end of the steering tube. The fender is simply slid into place and can be removed with the push of a tab.
Rear fender:
The rear fender is mounted via a quick-release clamp to the seat post. This fender can also be removed and mounted within seconds. The angle of the fender may be adjustable, depending on the model.
Topeak makes the same kind of fender system for most bikes. REI has usually SKS and Topeak in stock.
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
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Originally Posted By: wantin150
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
You ride a unicycle?
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
You ride a unicycle?
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I got the SKS Shock Blade front fender and the SKS X-Blade rear fender.
LOOKS like a lethal combo. I also like the: Downtube fender to protect the engine from spray....
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All the fenders in the world won't help if some jerk drives through a big puddle right next to you. Don't ask me how I know.
Does your motorized suicide machine actually run when it's raining?
Does your motorized suicide machine actually run when it's raining?
Like a raped ape. But the ice pellets sting my mug. The elecrics are simlple, sparse and well insulated and isolated.
On Saturday I broke my shift lever set up - I have my "normally on the right thumb lever" switched over to the left side, but facing the rider - so down is low, up is high. Anyways it's just a short leetle 5mm X .80 screw that holds the mechanism to the L bracket attached to the former brake (now clutch) lever holder. Well the screw just tore the threads out and the shift lever on the cable goes - pa-TING - arching into the front spokes and PAAA-tung back at me (I caught it!!). Talk about a near death experience! I rode back home in first.
On Saturday I broke my shift lever set up - I have my "normally on the right thumb lever" switched over to the left side, but facing the rider - so down is low, up is high. Anyways it's just a short leetle 5mm X .80 screw that holds the mechanism to the L bracket attached to the former brake (now clutch) lever holder. Well the screw just tore the threads out and the shift lever on the cable goes - pa-TING - arching into the front spokes and PAAA-tung back at me (I caught it!!). Talk about a near death experience! I rode back home in first.
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It sounds like every ride is an adventure!
heheheh - I used the other bracket (I can't remember which side it started on at this point!) - and a longer M5-.80 hex bolt and washers. Tightened with a nut driver. Got about 3-4 threads protruding and just touched the handle bar. So unless the threads pull out or something else breaks...... Total = 0.50$. Should hold until twister shifter time later this week.
It's a design as I ride project at this point. All the "project" drawings are complete, but some of the stuff - like the shifter aren't previously explored by other motorized bike nuts. Some folks with stock China left drive remove the front derailleur (and associated shifter stuff) and rarely shift the rear. The jackshaft is working great, but now the ratio is just a hair too low (last week it was two too high and we over compensated). So I need to get a gear with one more tooth, machine it to width.........
It's a design as I ride project at this point. All the "project" drawings are complete, but some of the stuff - like the shifter aren't previously explored by other motorized bike nuts. Some folks with stock China left drive remove the front derailleur (and associated shifter stuff) and rarely shift the rear. The jackshaft is working great, but now the ratio is just a hair too low (last week it was two too high and we over compensated). So I need to get a gear with one more tooth, machine it to width.........
If you have eyelets on the drop outs, you can get fenders that do a much better job then clip on's.
To me, preventing 90% of the road spray from getting on me isn't sufficient!
To me, preventing 90% of the road spray from getting on me isn't sufficient!
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Originally Posted By: Bill Kapaun
If you have eyelets on the drop outs, you can get fenders that do a much better job then clip on's.
To me, preventing 90% of the road spray from getting on me isn't sufficient!
I got a full suspension bikes and regular fenders won't fit. I also want to be able to put on the fenders in a snap when I need them (On maybe 10 days between November and March). I chose the fenders so they would eliminate all road spray, not just part of it, which would make no sense at all.
If you have eyelets on the drop outs, you can get fenders that do a much better job then clip on's.
To me, preventing 90% of the road spray from getting on me isn't sufficient!
I got a full suspension bikes and regular fenders won't fit. I also want to be able to put on the fenders in a snap when I need them (On maybe 10 days between November and March). I chose the fenders so they would eliminate all road spray, not just part of it, which would make no sense at all.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: wantin150
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
You ride a unicycle?
Ok, TWO 2 liter bottles cut to fit!
Originally Posted By: wantin150
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
You ride a unicycle?
Ok, TWO 2 liter bottles cut to fit!
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Originally Posted By: wantin150
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: wantin150
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
You ride a unicycle?
Ok, TWO 2 liter bottles cut to fit!
Well, it's really the rear tire that gets you point blank. The front tire's sprays mostly misses, but still causes more or less splatter depending on speed.
What I want to know is why the downtube has become such a popular mounting spot for bottles. It's on of the filthiest spots. I have my water bottle mounted on the handlebar stem right next to the steering tube. I keep my toolkit in a bottle shaped container in the bottle cage mounted on the downtube. It get's quite dirty, but I figure when I have to do repairs in the field I'll get dirty anyway.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: wantin150
2 liter bottle cut to fit!
You ride a unicycle?
Ok, TWO 2 liter bottles cut to fit!
Well, it's really the rear tire that gets you point blank. The front tire's sprays mostly misses, but still causes more or less splatter depending on speed.
What I want to know is why the downtube has become such a popular mounting spot for bottles. It's on of the filthiest spots. I have my water bottle mounted on the handlebar stem right next to the steering tube. I keep my toolkit in a bottle shaped container in the bottle cage mounted on the downtube. It get's quite dirty, but I figure when I have to do repairs in the field I'll get dirty anyway.
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How's that help me? The bottle cage is mounted on the underside of the downtube.
I wasn't trying to help you, per se. I think that one just looks cool. I very well may order one when I get my whole set.
Underside of the downtube? That's just whacked. Or wacked. For a water bottle. I guess it doesn't matter for your tool jug. Which is yet another fine mori idea. I may need to carry a lathe and a mill with me.
Underside of the downtube? That's just whacked. Or wacked. For a water bottle. I guess it doesn't matter for your tool jug. Which is yet another fine mori idea. I may need to carry a lathe and a mill with me.
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