Beam Type vs "Click" type Torque Wrench

[Saturn_Fan]

What is a good all around range for both ft-lbs and inch-lbs? I have been looking at buying one of each, but unsure of what ranges i will use most commonly. I will use it for tightening down items on my car and ATV. I have been looking at K-D brand and the two I like are a 1/4" @ 0-60 inch-lbs and the other is a 1/2" @ 0-150 ft-lbs. I have never owned a torque wrench before, and just want to buy two that can meet most of my needs at home. My four wheeler's service manual lists everything in "Newton Meters".


Thanks in advance!

 

[Audi Junkie]

I just got a Harbour Freight 3/8" clicker for $20, they are on sale for $15 now. It'll work for my needs.

 

[doitmyself]

I find it almost impossible to meet all ones needs with only two wrenches. Three wrenches whose scales over lap is best/minimum.

First, remember that torque wrenches are only certified accurate at 20% to 100% of their scale. A 150 lb. wrench is accurate from 30ft. lbs. to 150 ft. lbs.. It is not recommended to use the wrench at its lower 20%.

One good combo, IMO:

50 to 240 in lb. (2.4 to 20 ft. lb.)

20 to 100 ft. lb

50 to 250 ft. lb.

Your 60 in. lb. wrench is only good up to 5 ft. lbs. ....maybe carburator bolts? What else can you justify this wrench for?

Spark plugs are generally 10 to 18 ft. lbs.?
Oil pans, tranny pans, etc., maybe 8 to 14 ft. lbs.?

In the KD (Danaher/Sears equivalent) beam wrenches here:

http://www.kd-tools.com/29552957.htm

you would be weak in the 5 to 10 ft. lb. area and anything over 150 ft. lbs. (I do ag. equipment).

 

[Saturn_Fan]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself


One good combo, IMO:

50 to 240 in lb. (2.4 to 20 ft. lb.)

20 to 100 ft. lb

50 to 250 ft. lb.



In the KD (Danaher/Sears equivalent) beam wrenches here:

http://www.kd-tools.com/29552957.htm

you would be weak in the 5 to 10 ft. lb. area and anything over 150 ft. lbs. (I do ag. equipment).


Thanks! This is exactly the suggestion I was looking for. I'll go with a three wrench investment. With three vehicles, two outboards, snowblower, ATV, etc., the time has come that I want to start using torque wrenches when i do repair work instead of guessing.

 

[doitmyself]

Audi,

someone gave me a new Great Neck (Taiwan generic) wrench and it still tests good against expensive wrenches after 3 years.

But, I cringe at the stories of snapped bolts on an expensive component when the wrench decides to give out. Use it with care and caution.

Google Harbor Freight torque wrench and you will find this a lot:

"I was using it to tighten up a bolt on the oil pump of my truck to correct “factory” setting. Bang! cracked the casing to the oil pump."


edit: Saturn Fan, the problem I have is that once I started using a torque wrench, it kind of became a crutch. I used to torque most common things with my "elbow" torque-ometer. Now I use my torque wrenches more than I should (not my oil drain plug yet!).

And, remember, the highly regarded Snap on torque wrenches are made by CDI and Precision Instrument...much cheaper if you can live with out the Snap On logo.

 

[2000ltdken]

Critic,

I just went through this myself. Had Craftsman click type for years and it finally was starting to not work right. Checked prices on new Craftsman and decided to buy CDI (owned by Snap On) off of ebay used. Ended up with nicer torque wrenches and lower cost.

Ken

 

[NYEngineer]

My 3/8 drive covers 10- 100 ft lbs.

The 1/2 goes from 45 to 250

I don't know the scale on the inch lb wrench offhand, but I know it covers 0-10 ft lbs and then some.

I can live without the Snap on name, but CDI doesn't have a truck coming to my shop every week. We bought a CDI digital torque wrench at my current job for torquing bus duct. Nice tool.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I usually just guesstimate anyway. As far as each wrench having a range, yes...that's how I settled on the wrench I have. Most jobs I care about are in the 15-45 range anyway. I think above that there is more room for error and below that....hand tight is good.

My HF 3/8" is 5-80 lbs +/-4% The only job I need it for is the valve lash on the Honda.

 

[1sttruck]

I've used a 600 in lb Sears 3/8in beam type for years, and a few years ago picked up a Sears 150 ft lb 1/2in beam type for lug nuts and such. I might pick up a 250 lb clicker if they're on sale, but would prefer a 'flat beam' type.

If I were concerned about accuracy I'd get a flat beam type.

 

[kd5byb]

Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
What is a good all around range for both ft-lbs and inch-lbs?


I'm not really sure what a good combo is, but I'll tell you a BAD combo. Sears has (had?) three ranges of clickers - two 3/8" drive and one 1/2" drive. Stupid me bought the low range 3/8" and the 1/2" units.

Much stuff uses that middle 3/8" range that I don't have. I either crank the little one all the way up (bad!) or crank the big one all the way down (bad!).

later,
b

 

[1sttruck]

http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/scrp_0803_calibrating_a_torque_wrench/accuracy_test_results.html

Results Of Sample Torque Wrenches Checked

Wrench Type TORQUE ERROR
1/2" Drive Beam Type 7.7%/4.9%
1/2" Driv Clicker Type 11.5%/8.2%
3/8" Drive Beam Type 4.8%