does anyone know if any of the local parts chains sell the unibody adapter for a floor jack? I'd like to change my wheels out without having to use a scissor jack and would like to get one locally
Thanks
Goose
Thanks
Goose
Unibody adapter for floor jacks
- Thread starter Blue_Goose
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Dunno about locally. Peep this page, maybe print it and take it to your local parts stores and see if they can get something like what you are seeking:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/produ...iProductID=2061
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/produ...iProductID=2061
JHZR2
Staff member
My saab has a swuare pad on the top of its scissor jack. The square pad inserts into a square receiver on the body of the car - I suppose it is reinforced there.
I got a HD 2-ton jack, not the chinese cheapo ones. Its got a BIG lifting area, so I cut a 2x4 to fit the square on the car, sat that on the jack surface, and pushed up the car to change out my winter tires yesterday. Worked like a champ.
However, my BMW doesnt have such a surface for pushing up. The OE jack effectively clips to the little welded point in the unibody, and then pushes up on one side. I assume that this is why the adapter linked above has the gap:
It seems to me that in the picture, the device isnt being used properly... It seems that the gap between the two sides should be where the welded metal that sticks down from the unibody goes, and then the adapter pushes up from the jack to the body, but not on the welded, thin strip.
I used a block of wood between the jack and frame points known to be good to use with a floor jack. Worked fine, however this seems to be a nicer way...
Am I wrong?
JMH
I got a HD 2-ton jack, not the chinese cheapo ones. Its got a BIG lifting area, so I cut a 2x4 to fit the square on the car, sat that on the jack surface, and pushed up the car to change out my winter tires yesterday. Worked like a champ.
However, my BMW doesnt have such a surface for pushing up. The OE jack effectively clips to the little welded point in the unibody, and then pushes up on one side. I assume that this is why the adapter linked above has the gap:
It seems to me that in the picture, the device isnt being used properly... It seems that the gap between the two sides should be where the welded metal that sticks down from the unibody goes, and then the adapter pushes up from the jack to the body, but not on the welded, thin strip.
I used a block of wood between the jack and frame points known to be good to use with a floor jack. Worked fine, however this seems to be a nicer way...
Am I wrong?
JMH
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There used to be a jack stand adaptor that looked like a slotted puck made from hard rubber. The slot would protect the pinch weld. I think I saw that adaptor the last time in a JC Whitney catalog maybe 5 years ago. Now I see mostly the rectangular, slotted metal "pinch weld jack adaptor" that does not even have a protective rubber coating. I'd coat the contact surface with Tool Dip, or I'd put at least a few layers of duct tape there.
I can put a regular jack stand under the thick pinch welds of my Audi without doing any damage to the welds. However, on many cars, a pinch weld will get bent or collapse unless you use a proper adaptor.
I can put a regular jack stand under the thick pinch welds of my Audi without doing any damage to the welds. However, on many cars, a pinch weld will get bent or collapse unless you use a proper adaptor.
Maybe just go to a sporting goods store and get a hockey puck. Cut a slot into the puck. One could set the depth of a table saw such that you wouldn't cut entirely through the puck.
I think a hockey puck, cut up, would be a decent substitute.
I think a hockey puck, cut up, would be a decent substitute.
Are there any repercussions of not using an adapter with a floor jack? I've always just used the lifting points for the scissor jacks and haven't done any damage yet.
I made one out of a peice of 2x4 with my circular saw. Cut a slot that was several passes wide but not all the way through. Worked fine. One day it cracked - didn't drop or anything but wasn't good.
Then I read in my Lancer service manual where they suggested using rubber over standard jack stands at the unibody jacking points. The referred to one piece of thick rubber, but I didn't have any thick rubber so I cut several 4" by 2" by 1/4" rubber chunks and zip-tied them together into a thick "pad". Zip-tied them to the top of the jack stands. Worked great.
later,
b
Then I read in my Lancer service manual where they suggested using rubber over standard jack stands at the unibody jacking points. The referred to one piece of thick rubber, but I didn't have any thick rubber so I cut several 4" by 2" by 1/4" rubber chunks and zip-tied them together into a thick "pad". Zip-tied them to the top of the jack stands. Worked great.
later,
b
JHZR2
Staff member
I cringe at the thought of metal on metal at only one corner, regardless of how tough the pinch welds are or how little amage is seen.
metal on metal is still just scary to me. Im sure wood on metal is just as bad, but at least you can distribute the weight a bit. The contact points on many jacks are so tiny that it just scares me...
JMH
metal on metal is still just scary to me. Im sure wood on metal is just as bad, but at least you can distribute the weight a bit. The contact points on many jacks are so tiny that it just scares me...
JMH
JHZR2
Staff member
look up protech products for a whole line of jack and jackstand pads to protect cars...
JMH
JMH
I just shoot for under the control arms or use wood.
So is there anything attaching the piece of wood to the jack or is it just wedged between the car and the jack?
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I cringe at the thought of metal on metal at only one corner, regardless of how tough the pinch welds are or how little amage is seen.
What keeps you from putting a piece of rubber mat (plumbing supply), a piece of inner tube, or a thick piece of silicone (baking) sheet between the jack and the pinch weld/lift point? At almost 12 years old, the pinch welds and the undercoating on them are undamaged, although I use jack stands all the time.
I cringe at the thought of metal on metal at only one corner, regardless of how tough the pinch welds are or how little amage is seen.
What keeps you from putting a piece of rubber mat (plumbing supply), a piece of inner tube, or a thick piece of silicone (baking) sheet between the jack and the pinch weld/lift point? At almost 12 years old, the pinch welds and the undercoating on them are undamaged, although I use jack stands all the time.
JHZR2
Staff member
well, that is the general idea... Ive avoided jacks until now.
JMH
JMH
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
It seems that the gap between the two sides should be where the welded metal that sticks down from the unibody goes, and then the adapter pushes up from the jack to the body, but not on the welded, thin strip.
I have the adapter that Eastwood sells (overpriced) and that is how it works. The picture is deceiving.
Mr. Tool sells the exact same adapter for one third of the price (currently out of stock).
http://www.mrtool.com/browse.cfm/4,1359.html
It seems that the gap between the two sides should be where the welded metal that sticks down from the unibody goes, and then the adapter pushes up from the jack to the body, but not on the welded, thin strip.
I have the adapter that Eastwood sells (overpriced) and that is how it works. The picture is deceiving.
Mr. Tool sells the exact same adapter for one third of the price (currently out of stock).
http://www.mrtool.com/browse.cfm/4,1359.html
I just cut a square piece of 2x4 and put it on my full size floor jack. Then I use hardwood pieces. They are 3/4x 1 1/2 and I cut it about 3 inches long.
I don't know what wood it is, Oak or something. I got it for free in long strips. I use it and lay it on the square pice of 2x4 and it works awesome. I lay it right on the seam and it does not split like other softer woods.
I also cut pieces to fit on the jack stands to prevent scratches. It is the best way I have found.
I don't know what wood it is, Oak or something. I got it for free in long strips. I use it and lay it on the square pice of 2x4 and it works awesome. I lay it right on the seam and it does not split like other softer woods.
I also cut pieces to fit on the jack stands to prevent scratches. It is the best way I have found.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Im sure wood on metal is just as bad, but at least you can distribute the weight a bit.
That's exactly the point of the wood - you're making 9 squares inches of contact (assuming a 3" by 3" chunk) versus less than an inch square when the jack contacts the unibody seam...
Im sure wood on metal is just as bad, but at least you can distribute the weight a bit.
That's exactly the point of the wood - you're making 9 squares inches of contact (assuming a 3" by 3" chunk) versus less than an inch square when the jack contacts the unibody seam...
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
So is there anything attaching the piece of wood to the jack or is it just wedged between the car and the jack?
I just wedge it between the jack/jack stand and the car.
But then again, I usually use four jack stands in a situation where most people would use two. Two to take the weight, two to be there in case the first two fail which won't happen, ever. Overkill for sure! I also leave the jack in place but with only a tiny bit of weight on it.
So is there anything attaching the piece of wood to the jack or is it just wedged between the car and the jack?
I just wedge it between the jack/jack stand and the car.
But then again, I usually use four jack stands in a situation where most people would use two. Two to take the weight, two to be there in case the first two fail which won't happen, ever. Overkill for sure! I also leave the jack in place but with only a tiny bit of weight on it.
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
does anyone know if any of the local parts chains sell the unibody adapter for a floor jack? I'd like to change my wheels out without having to use a scissor jack and would like to get one locally
Thanks
Goose
Which vehicle? The HHR? Delta chassis have reinforced jack points by the lower shock mount/axle area and there is reinforced jack points just to the rear of each front wheel. I just did a rotation on the Cobalt last week. Do you think the shlubs at the local tire center will use such caution lifting any of your vehicles? NOT!!
Joel
does anyone know if any of the local parts chains sell the unibody adapter for a floor jack? I'd like to change my wheels out without having to use a scissor jack and would like to get one locally
Thanks
Goose
Which vehicle? The HHR? Delta chassis have reinforced jack points by the lower shock mount/axle area and there is reinforced jack points just to the rear of each front wheel. I just did a rotation on the Cobalt last week. Do you think the shlubs at the local tire center will use such caution lifting any of your vehicles? NOT!!
Joel
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As Audi Junkie mentioned, why not jack under the suspension and avoid the whole problem. If you jack the body the suspension has to fall to full droop before you can then jack even farther to get a wheel off the ground.
Jacking the suspension the wheels are off the ground with very little movement.
Jacking the suspension the wheels are off the ground with very little movement.
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If it's anything like all the unibody cars in my driveway, there's a nice little pad about a foot inboard of the front wheels on both sides, and likewise in front of the rear wheels, where you could put your floor jack to do its duty.
Using this sturdy spot means you don't use the fender/rocker panel pinch weld and you can jack you vehicle up like it's a real car...
Using this sturdy spot means you don't use the fender/rocker panel pinch weld and you can jack you vehicle up like it's a real car...
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