Lexus RX330 complete brake job

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Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: PT1
I got the ATD pads and the regular old style rotors because they don't have the ATD rotors for the front ones yet. Or if they do the parts guy could'nt find a part number for them.(I did ask) The front Canadian build ones from Raybestos are a special order item and it will take a week to get them.

I see. The Affina catalog already lists the sub-brand as "ADV," so maybe that is Advanced Technology style rotor already? Don't know.

So you're going with the larger vented rotors for the front, and the smaller solid rotors for the rear?

Do you think you can post a picture of that ATD pad? I'm curious if they use the detachable style shim for those pads. I noticed that on much of the ATD line-up, they switched from the riveted shim to a clip type.


Yeah the front rotors are vented and the rears are solid and smaller diameter. I'll try to post a pic when the parts come in. FWIW, the Lexus factory pads use clips.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
Yeah the front rotors are vented and the rears are solid and smaller diameter. I'll try to post a pic when the parts come in. FWIW, the Lexus factory pads use clips.

Yeah, but they aren't the same kind of clip-ons. The Lexus/Toyota, Honda/Acura, Nissan/Infiniti OE clip-on shims are user detachable. The aftermarket clip-on shims that Raybestos, Centric and Akebono use appear as though they are clip-on, and they are, but they are not meant to be detached by the user. Do not try to separate the shim from the backing plate, they are attached very tightly for a reason. On the other hand, the OE style clip-on shims are meant to be removed by the installer to apply grease.
 
PT1,
1st: The lubracant that I used on the back of the pads and on the sliders was Permatex Silicone Brake Lube. It's a white plastic jar that has a long brush attached to the lid and the lube is a dark green in color...2nd, the typical procedure for bleeding the hydrolic brake system according to the service manual is in this sequence:(I use a Mite-Vac Brake Pump), Pass Rear, Drive Rear, Pass Front, Drive Front. At the end I also bleed out the "ABS Actuator Assembly" which is located just beneath the resivior for your coolant and has it's own bleeder valve at the top. The service manual that I have mentions nothing about bleeding the "ABS Actuator Assembly". I like to do this anyway. Since the ABS Actuator Assembly is located where it is, one can bleed it in this sequence: Pass Rear, Drive Rear, Pass Front, ABS Actuator Assembly, Drive Front. I've done both ways and it doesn't seem to matter. I don't use any particular brake fluid as long as it meet the proper spec and I haven't seen one that doesn't. Any DOT 3/4 on sale. Be sure to use anti-seeze on the bolts for the caliper holddown bracket. Any other questions that you have, I'll be more than happy to help if I can.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
PT1,
1st: The lubracant that I used on the back of the pads and on the sliders was Permatex Silicone Brake Lube. It's a white plastic jar that has a long brush attached to the lid and the lube is a dark green in color...2nd, the typical procedure for bleeding the hydrolic brake system according to the service manual is in this sequence:(I use a Mite-Vac Brake Pump), Pass Rear, Drive Rear, Pass Front, Drive Front. At the end I also bleed out the "ABS Actuator Assembly" which is located just beneath the resivior for your coolant and has it's own bleeder valve at the top. The service manual that I have mentions nothing about bleeding the "ABS Actuator Assembly". I like to do this anyway. Since the ABS Actuator Assembly is located where it is, one can bleed it in this sequence: Pass Rear, Drive Rear, Pass Front, ABS Actuator Assembly, Drive Front. I've done both ways and it doesn't seem to matter. I don't use any particular brake fluid as long as it meet the proper spec and I haven't seen one that doesn't. Any DOT 3/4 on sale. Be sure to use anti-seeze on the bolts for the caliper holddown bracket. Any other questions that you have, I'll be more than happy to help if I can.


Is your mity vac a vacuum pump or power bleeder? I have a motive power extractor that I was going to use. Will that work ok? Did you use the old fasioned pump method afterwards?
 
PT 1
More like a fluid extractor. One man operation. Connects to the caliper bleeder valve. Pump up the vacuum and then open the bleeder valve on the caliper. Captures the fluid in it's own little attached jar. Does not connect the the break master cylinder like a power bleeder. A bit low tech and low cost but, works great and have been using it for many years older non ABS equiped as well as the newer vehicles with ABS, VSC, Traction Control etc.(vehicles that use the brakes to gain traction in foul weather).
 
The only reason to replace the rotors is if they are warped for the most part. Most Toyota's in my family go 17 year's ormore ont he same rotors just replace the pads every 100,000-150,000 miles. Their should be two pins going left to right. Then you should have a saftey retainer that is made out of wire. It does kind of what a cotter key does. It goes into a small pin hole in each one of those retaining pins. Once you have those two thin pins out the pads will come right out. It really is the easisiet system on the planet to work on you will never need more then standard tools to work on it now torx bits, nothing to lube etc......

No know I always bleed my Toyota's right at the caliper or drums starting with the one farthiest from the master cylinder!
 
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Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
nothing to lube etc......


crazy2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
PT 1
More like a fluid extractor. One man operation. Connects to the caliper bleeder valve. Pump up the vacuum and then open the bleeder valve on the caliper. Captures the fluid in it's own little attached jar. Does not connect the the break master cylinder like a power bleeder. A bit low tech and low cost but, works great and have been using it for many years older non ABS equiped as well as the newer vehicles with ABS, VSC, Traction Control etc.(vehicles that use the brakes to gain traction in foul weather).


Good because that is exactly what I have. The motive one even came with a hose for the brake bleeder so I am definitely in business!
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
The only reason to replace the rotors is if they are warped for the most part. Most Toyota's in my family go 17 year's ormore ont he same rotors just replace the pads every 100,000-150,000 miles. Their should be two pins going left to right. Then you should have a saftey retainer that is made out of wire. It does kind of what a cotter key does. It goes into a small pin hole in each one of those retaining pins. Once you have those two thin pins out the pads will come right out. It really is the easisiet system on the planet to work on you will never need more then standard tools to work on it now torx bits, nothing to lube etc......

No know I always bleed my Toyota's right at the caliper or drums starting with the one farthiest from the master cylinder!


Here in Ohio where they dump hundreds of metric tons of salt on the roads 4 months a year you never wear out rotors as they corrode away long before they wear out. The fronts get hot enough to self clean but the rears rarely make it past 2 sets of pads before the edges begin to disappear. Then this crud gets in between the pad & rotor and gives you a spongy pedal because you are pushing through grit every time you step on the brakes. I have had my kids Honda at the dealer having them look for a fluid leak only to realize the pads needed cleaning. The fronts on the Lexus are corroded to the point where the vent webs are beginning to disappear...time to replace them even though they still have enough surface to turn them once more.
frown.gif
 
JohnBrowning,
I wish I could go umteen years without replacing rotors. Due to the road salt and stop & go driving here where I live, I can't drive my vehicles more that about 6 years before replacing rotors(some vehicles only about 3-4 years). Toyota/Lexus or any other vehicle for that matter. At some point they all warp to the level where the vibration becomes violent.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
JohnBrowning,
I wish I could go umteen years without replacing rotors. Due to the road salt and stop & go driving here where I live, I can't drive my vehicles more that about 6 years before replacing rotors(some vehicles only about 3-4 years). Toyota/Lexus or any other vehicle for that matter. At some point they all warp to the level where the vibration becomes violent.


Mine rarely warp...just dissolve away. I get 4 years max out of a set.
smirk2.gif
 
PT1,
Me too! I've had rotors that didn't warp but, corroded so badly from the road salt that they wore down the pads to the metal in a type of grinding effect. My rotors, reguardless of warpage or corroding, are usually beyond turning and I just throw them away. Years ago (60's & 70's vehicles), I never replaced rotors and drove them for years. Rotors were very expensive to replace back then but were made out of great metal. Today they're quite affordable.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
PT1,
Me too! I've had rotors that didn't warp but, corroded so badly from the road salt that they wore down the pads to the metal in a type of grinding effect. My rotors, reguardless of warpage or corroding, are usually beyond turning and I just throw them away. Years ago (60's & 70's vehicles), I never replaced rotors and drove them for years. Rotors were very expensive to replace back then but were made out of great metal. Today they're quite affordable.


I know...my wife is from the LeRoy-Batavia area and you get the same salt corrosion we do. We plan to move South in 3-4 years when the kids exit high school. Then the never ending salt bath will cease.
 
What is so funny about nothing to lube??? GM and most other domestic still use cheap slider designs with pins that need to be lubed and replaced from time to time. The seals go bad on the them and they rust etc.....I have been lucky enough to own TOyota's for a long long time. In fact my 1986 Toyota 4Runner had what looked like Brembo's but where cast out of iron for the front with some seriously large rotors for the time. Seeing how my rotors made it 17 year's and were only turned once I would say I was doing something right.In fact when I replaced the rotors I became the first person in my extended family to ever need to replace rotors on any Toyota the family has owned since 1971!

My family in general own a mix of Toyota,GM and Chrysler products. In general the owns that own GM and Chrysler need to freq. replace rotors,drums and friction and the GM's are the worst for roting away.I have never seen a Toyota rot it rotors and drums away. I live in Michigan and Ihave a Tundra,Tacoma,2 Camry's and a Buick that I am responable for serviceing.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
What is so funny about nothing to lube??? GM and most other domestic still use cheap slider designs with pins that need to be lubed and replaced from time to time. The seals go bad on the them and they rust etc.....I have been lucky enough to own TOyota's for a long long time. In fact my 1986 Toyota 4Runner had what looked like Brembo's but where cast out of iron for the front with some seriously large rotors for the time. Seeing how my rotors made it 17 year's and were only turned once I would say I was doing something right.In fact when I replaced the rotors I became the first person in my extended family to ever need to replace rotors on any Toyota the family has owned since 1971!

My family in general own a mix of Toyota,GM and Chrysler products. In general the owns that own GM and Chrysler need to freq. replace rotors,drums and friction and the GM's are the worst for roting away.I have never seen a Toyota rot it rotors and drums away. I live in Michigan and Ihave a Tundra,Tacoma,2 Camry's and a Buick that I am responable for serviceing.

Toyota's factory service manual requires lubricating the INNER (not outer) brake pad shim and the slide pins. I also recommend lubricating the pad support plates (commonly referred to as caliper abutment clips) and the part of the pad that contacts the caliper.

This is essential for noise control.
 
Well I got my parts today and they are the Advanced Technology rotors and pads. The parts guy said they lifetime warrant the pads so when they are worn more than 75-80% bring them back for free replacements. Wish me luck!
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
Well I got my parts today and they are the Advanced Technology rotors and pads. The parts guy said they lifetime warrant the pads so when they are worn more than 75-80% bring them back for free replacements. Wish me luck!

Post up some pictures of the new parts when you get a chance, thanks.

grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: PT1
Well I got my parts today and they are the Advanced Technology rotors and pads. The parts guy said they lifetime warrant the pads so when they are worn more than 75-80% bring them back for free replacements. Wish me luck!

Post up some pictures of the new parts when you get a chance, thanks.

grin2.gif



How do you post pics on this site?
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: PT1
Well I got my parts today and they are the Advanced Technology rotors and pads. The parts guy said they lifetime warrant the pads so when they are worn more than 75-80% bring them back for free replacements. Wish me luck!

Post up some pictures of the new parts when you get a chance, thanks.

grin2.gif



How do you post pics on this site?

Upload to http://www.photobucket.com. They give you an option to select the image with the "IMG" tags. Copy, paste and post that entire link. The link you post should resemble something like
.
 
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