Previa with 175k miles - which oil?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 5, 2004
Messages
264
Location
North
I will start by saying this site is GREAT! I have been asking lots of questions but I learn fast
wink.gif


I have a 1991 Toyota Previa with 175k miles and it is time for an oil change! For the past 13 year and 175k miles it had been feed whatever cheap 5W-30 dino the deal has poured in but I want to treat it better. The engine uses very little oil, less than 1qt between 4k changes.

What would be a good oil for me this winter? I don't want to blow tons of money for this van (no Motul 300V!) but I am willing to doetter than $0.99 per bottle
wink.gif


Will changing to synthetic at such high mileage cause problems?

Thanks for your advice.
 
Your engine has enjoyed dino every 4k so why change. It seems to work. Personally I would stick with dino with whatever floats your boat.
 
i have a 1992 previa with 180,000 miles. just recently had to get balljoints installed. what a great van.. changing plugs arent very fun. but in this car i used 5w30 mobil clean drive most of the time. sometimes in the summer i would go with 10w30. in this engine i used just about every store bought oil i could over the 12 years i've owned it. which reminds me, its about time for a oil change in that thing.. 8)
 
quote:

Originally posted by KJA426:
I would try either a 5w-30 or 10w-30 High Mileage formula from Castrol, Pennzoil, etc.

What is the advantage of these "high mileage" formula oils? My local store sells the Valvoline Maxlife but I always thought it was probably a marketing scam? Should I go with the synthetic versions of these oils or the cheaper ones?
 
Yep, I've got a '92 Previa with 45,000 miles on it. I'm not kidding, 45K. We used to have another car, so this van was only used for several long trips every year. I've always used 10W/30 in that engine, usually the major brands like Quaker State, Castrol, and Halvoline. Right now, I'm using a blend of 2 quarts Exxon Superflo and 4 quarts of Quaker State 10W/30. The vehicle burns about 1/3 of a quart every 7500 miles, which is my current OCI since we recently just started using the van for freeway commute. (15 miles each way)

Michael
 
Been using Chevron 5w30 in my '91 previa. It has a 2 quart oil reserve tank, so I can't accurately tell how much its burned.

I need new shocks, struts, ball joints probably, and perhaps a few bushings here and there, but thats to be expected on a '91 with 120k miles.
 
The old dino vs. synthetic comes into play here. I'd like the synthetic for the low pour point and clean engine issues but I am worried about oil leaks on such an old engine which is why I am tempted to try the HM oils. I'd be very upset if I changed to synthetic and the engine started to leak.

Maybe I should be looking for a dino 5W-30 that has a very low pour point, since the HMs seem to be a bit thicker.
 
Ringmaster,
Why don't you run two bottles of Auto RX and clean things up a bit and than you will be able to see if you have any leak issues.
 
quote:

Originally posted by wn1998:
Ringmaster,
Why don't you run two bottles of Auto RX and clean things up a bit and than you will be able to see if you have any leak issues.


Yikes, yet another angle to consider!

I suppose I could run some Auto RX with regular dino 5W-30 for a change or two.

Do I have anything to fear with the RX, other than $50 spent?

What 5W-30 would I use with the RX that will be good for -30C cold starts?
 
The High Mileage formulas seem to have a tad higher viscosity compared to the standard formulas. They claim to have an additive which helps seals swell and stop minor oil leaks. They also claim to resist burn-off better too.
 
I read a question from a guy on the car talk column by tom and ray.. some guy was asking a question if it was worth it to put money into his 91 previa with 400k miles on it.
gr_eek2.gif
 
Sold my '91 Previa a few months ago.

Those engines are rock solid and barring misfortune will last 1/2-million miles.

Before buying the used Previa I researched at the large import-only wrecking yard I used to work at. Accessed the database and also viewed the inventory of a couple hundred other firms whose inventories are accesible. Basically, those engines are a dime-a-dozen because they last forever. Previas that were in wrecks and were "totaled," then stripped down and the components saved, are the source of the parts. Prices for those engines are low due to more supply then demand!!!!

Thus, I believe oil-type is not important. Regular changes are; avoiding diluted oil, etc. so the engine's moving parts are protected.

You are most likely to have problems with the SADS shaft, the critter running from the engine to the front assembly of alternator, etc.

There are repair kits for those shafts but they can be a pain for the do-it-thineselfer or expensive to hire it done.

I wouldn't worry too much about the engine. That shaft, the air conditioning system and the brakes are the "weak links" that tend to cause problems.

Have you checked out the Yahoo groups for the Previa group??? Lots of valuable info there.....

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/previa/

Lots of content there to assist ye in keeping your "Bean" alive.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ringmaster:

quote:

Originally posted by wn1998:
Ringmaster,
Why don't you run two bottles of Auto RX and clean things up a bit and than you will be able to see if you have any leak issues.


Yikes, yet another angle to consider!

I suppose I could run some Auto RX with regular dino 5W-30 for a change or two.

Do I have anything to fear with the RX, other than $50 spent?

What 5W-30 would I use with the RX that will be good for -30C cold starts?


Or another thing to consider is leaving it the heck alone, its worked for this long, why see if you can make it leak?
 
2003TRD,
my sentiments also.

175k miles is evidence that the previous maintenance regime was somewhat effective.

Stick to it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top