I've had a 07 Accord V6 for almost a year now and am at 10,000 miles. I know that the 5-speed auto is/was prone to problems. The maintenance minder is supposed to alert when to change the trans fluid, via the Honda flush process of 4 repeated drain, drive, and fills. However, for severe service, it says to change the fluid at 60,000 miles and every 30,000 miles thereafter. I am wondering if just changing out the 3 quarts without doing the repeated drain/fills every 30,000 miles would be an adequate way to keep this thing running a long time. You know extra cheap insurance. The fluid is still red (I have heard some tunr brown fast) and if it stays red I think a 3 quart freshening every 30,000 miles is enough. Any thoughts, comments, experiences, etc???
2007 Accord V6 5AT ATF change intervals
- Thread starter JMHC
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No problems with newer Honda trans. Just did a drain and fill at 20K (just 1X) and the ATF was still bright red. Then, planning to do it every 25-30K. Just make sure you get a new crush washer for the drain plug.
Peace,
Paul
Peace,
Paul
The fluid will turn brown and that is perfectly normal. There is no reason to change it because of that.
The newer Honda 5-speed automatics (2004+) have been fairly reliable so far. There have been very few failures.
Usually the Maintenance Minder will alert you for a fluid change about every 10 oil changes, which works out to between 60-70k for most people. This is a much shorter than interval than previously recommended with the older Accords that did not have the Maintenance Minder.
The newer Honda 5-speed automatics (2004+) have been fairly reliable so far. There have been very few failures.
Usually the Maintenance Minder will alert you for a fluid change about every 10 oil changes, which works out to between 60-70k for most people. This is a much shorter than interval than previously recommended with the older Accords that did not have the Maintenance Minder.
Thanks for the input guys. Independent of the maintenance minder I will do a 3 quart change every 30,000 just to be safe.
I do 3 q every year. I would not wait 30k to do half the fluid.
Originally Posted By: JMHC
Thanks for the input guys. Independent of the maintenance minder I will do a 3 quart change every 30,000 just to be safe.
I would do a 3x3qt change every 30k. At 30K and over the course of a few hundred miles I changed with Amsoil 7 times (21 quarts) to get all of the Z1 out. Now I'm going to take it to 30K or more depending on how my UOA comes out.
Thanks for the input guys. Independent of the maintenance minder I will do a 3 quart change every 30,000 just to be safe.
I would do a 3x3qt change every 30k. At 30K and over the course of a few hundred miles I changed with Amsoil 7 times (21 quarts) to get all of the Z1 out. Now I'm going to take it to 30K or more depending on how my UOA comes out.
JMHC, don't forget to change the trans filter at some point. It's a drop-in style element on the Accord 5spd: http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse.asp?M...&ViewParts=true
Joel
Joel
No where does it say in the manual to change the transmission filter and it's not in the Honda flushing procedure either.
Isn't a multiple drain/fill every 30K excessive? Or a 1X drain fill annually? Honda doesn't even recommend it until 60K in severe conditions.
Isn't a multiple drain/fill every 30K excessive? Or a 1X drain fill annually? Honda doesn't even recommend it until 60K in severe conditions.
Originally Posted By: JMHC
No where does it say in the manual to change the transmission filter and it's not in the Honda flushing procedure either.
Isn't a multiple drain/fill every 30K excessive? Or a 1X drain fill annually? Honda doesn't even recommend it until 60K in severe conditions.
Honda removed the time/distance interval and replaced it with the Maintenance Minder. I think they still state that the fluid needs to be changed for the first time at 60k, then every 30k thereafter if you live in mountainous terrain or something along those lines.
No where does it say in the manual to change the transmission filter and it's not in the Honda flushing procedure either.
Isn't a multiple drain/fill every 30K excessive? Or a 1X drain fill annually? Honda doesn't even recommend it until 60K in severe conditions.
Honda removed the time/distance interval and replaced it with the Maintenance Minder. I think they still state that the fluid needs to be changed for the first time at 60k, then every 30k thereafter if you live in mountainous terrain or something along those lines.
60k initial? 30k thereafter..... makes no sense. Whats the warranty like?
My recommendation is to drain/refill once a year or every 10k miles. You can not overmaintain any component. But, you can definitely undermaintain it. If fluid stays red, then your driving style isn't cooking it. 3 quarts once a year won't break any budget even with bloated overpriced OE ATF.
A complete flush or multiple drain/refills at 30k intervals is another choice. I would not go any further then that with any fluid without upgrades to filtration, cooling, and monitoring. I also do NOT care what any automaker recommends, which usually borders on negligence.
My recommendation is to drain/refill once a year or every 10k miles. You can not overmaintain any component. But, you can definitely undermaintain it. If fluid stays red, then your driving style isn't cooking it. 3 quarts once a year won't break any budget even with bloated overpriced OE ATF.
A complete flush or multiple drain/refills at 30k intervals is another choice. I would not go any further then that with any fluid without upgrades to filtration, cooling, and monitoring. I also do NOT care what any automaker recommends, which usually borders on negligence.
Originally Posted By: unDummy
60k initial? 30k thereafter..... makes no sense. Whats the warranty like?
My recommendation is to drain/refill once a year or every 10k miles. You can not overmaintain any component. But, you can definitely undermaintain it. If fluid stays red, then your driving style isn't cooking it. 3 quarts once a year won't break any budget even with bloated overpriced OE ATF.
A complete flush or multiple drain/refills at 30k intervals is another choice. I would not go any further then that with any fluid without upgrades to filtration, cooling, and monitoring. I also do NOT care what any automaker recommends, which usually borders on negligence.
Up to 120k, extended warranty, FYI.
You have been on this forum long enough that I expect you to know this -- the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material. It does NOT necessarily mean the fluid needs to be changed. So please stop spreading misinformation.
60k initial? 30k thereafter..... makes no sense. Whats the warranty like?
My recommendation is to drain/refill once a year or every 10k miles. You can not overmaintain any component. But, you can definitely undermaintain it. If fluid stays red, then your driving style isn't cooking it. 3 quarts once a year won't break any budget even with bloated overpriced OE ATF.
A complete flush or multiple drain/refills at 30k intervals is another choice. I would not go any further then that with any fluid without upgrades to filtration, cooling, and monitoring. I also do NOT care what any automaker recommends, which usually borders on negligence.
Up to 120k, extended warranty, FYI.
You have been on this forum long enough that I expect you to know this -- the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material. It does NOT necessarily mean the fluid needs to be changed. So please stop spreading misinformation.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: unDummy
60k initial? 30k thereafter..... makes no sense. Whats the warranty like?
My recommendation is to drain/refill once a year or every 10k miles. You can not overmaintain any component. But, you can definitely undermaintain it. If fluid stays red, then your driving style isn't cooking it. 3 quarts once a year won't break any budget even with bloated overpriced OE ATF.
A complete flush or multiple drain/refills at 30k intervals is another choice. I would not go any further then that with any fluid without upgrades to filtration, cooling, and monitoring. I also do NOT care what any automaker recommends, which usually borders on negligence.
Up to 120k, extended warranty, FYI.
You have been on this forum long enough that I expect you to know this -- the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material. It does NOT necessarily mean the fluid needs to be changed. So please stop spreading misinformation.
Not true. If you're suspending so much clutch material that it turns dark brown, your trans is already gone.
I've seen the fluid fried on the starting line on a T-brake, 5,500stall convertor, and never shifting a single gear.
The factory fill in my TL went black after 15K with 99% of the miles being freeway.
Originally Posted By: unDummy
60k initial? 30k thereafter..... makes no sense. Whats the warranty like?
My recommendation is to drain/refill once a year or every 10k miles. You can not overmaintain any component. But, you can definitely undermaintain it. If fluid stays red, then your driving style isn't cooking it. 3 quarts once a year won't break any budget even with bloated overpriced OE ATF.
A complete flush or multiple drain/refills at 30k intervals is another choice. I would not go any further then that with any fluid without upgrades to filtration, cooling, and monitoring. I also do NOT care what any automaker recommends, which usually borders on negligence.
Up to 120k, extended warranty, FYI.
You have been on this forum long enough that I expect you to know this -- the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material. It does NOT necessarily mean the fluid needs to be changed. So please stop spreading misinformation.
Not true. If you're suspending so much clutch material that it turns dark brown, your trans is already gone.
I've seen the fluid fried on the starting line on a T-brake, 5,500stall convertor, and never shifting a single gear.
The factory fill in my TL went black after 15K with 99% of the miles being freeway.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Not true. If you're suspending so much clutch material that it turns dark brown, your trans is already gone.
It doesn't take much friction material to turn the fluid brown, especially on the newer fluids as the fluid suspends the contaminants so well. Again, carbon fiber type materials will cause the fluid to darken very quickly.
Not true. If you're suspending so much clutch material that it turns dark brown, your trans is already gone.
It doesn't take much friction material to turn the fluid brown, especially on the newer fluids as the fluid suspends the contaminants so well. Again, carbon fiber type materials will cause the fluid to darken very quickly.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Not true. If you're suspending so much clutch material that it turns dark brown, your trans is already gone.
It doesn't take much friction material to turn the fluid brown, especially on the newer fluids as the fluid suspends the contaminants so well. Again, carbon fiber type materials will cause the fluid to darken very quickly.
I agree with some of that but other than the carbon fiber materials in the torque convertor, it takes a lot to discolor the fluid. My main point was that the fluid will discolor without the presence of clutch material.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Not true. If you're suspending so much clutch material that it turns dark brown, your trans is already gone.
It doesn't take much friction material to turn the fluid brown, especially on the newer fluids as the fluid suspends the contaminants so well. Again, carbon fiber type materials will cause the fluid to darken very quickly.
I agree with some of that but other than the carbon fiber materials in the torque convertor, it takes a lot to discolor the fluid. My main point was that the fluid will discolor without the presence of clutch material.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I agree with some of that but other than the carbon fiber materials in the torque convertor, it takes a lot to discolor the fluid. My main point was that the fluid will discolor without the presence of clutch material.
I was referring to the actual friction material. It really does not take a lot to discolor the fluid. Besides, the dye may not be permanent with some fluids. This isn't my own opinion; I obtained this info from a transmission engineer.
I agree with some of that but other than the carbon fiber materials in the torque convertor, it takes a lot to discolor the fluid. My main point was that the fluid will discolor without the presence of clutch material.
I was referring to the actual friction material. It really does not take a lot to discolor the fluid. Besides, the dye may not be permanent with some fluids. This isn't my own opinion; I obtained this info from a transmission engineer.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I agree with some of that but other than the carbon fiber materials in the torque convertor, it takes a lot to discolor the fluid. My main point was that the fluid will discolor without the presence of clutch material.
I was referring to the actual friction material. It really does not take a lot to discolor the fluid. Besides, the dye may not be permanent with some fluids. This isn't my own opinion; I obtained this info from a transmission engineer.
Liar!
Kidding. I agree that clutch material will make it discolor but I seriously doubt it's clutch material that makes the Honda ATF discolor so fast. For example, my factory fill discolored (and smelled burned) in about 15,000 miles of driving in some of the hottest parts of the country. I changed to Amsoil ATF and then ATD and with nearly 15,000 miles on this fill (30,000 total with Amsoil) it looks like the day I put it in.
For what it's worth, the TL is now a short trip car that rarely sees the freeway (and the lead footed girlfriend drives it) so this UOA will not be working in Amsoil's favor but I have a feeling it's going to turn out ok. I'll definately post results when I get it back. I only wish I would've done a UOA on the factory fill for comparison.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I agree with some of that but other than the carbon fiber materials in the torque convertor, it takes a lot to discolor the fluid. My main point was that the fluid will discolor without the presence of clutch material.
I was referring to the actual friction material. It really does not take a lot to discolor the fluid. Besides, the dye may not be permanent with some fluids. This isn't my own opinion; I obtained this info from a transmission engineer.
Liar!
Kidding. I agree that clutch material will make it discolor but I seriously doubt it's clutch material that makes the Honda ATF discolor so fast. For example, my factory fill discolored (and smelled burned) in about 15,000 miles of driving in some of the hottest parts of the country. I changed to Amsoil ATF and then ATD and with nearly 15,000 miles on this fill (30,000 total with Amsoil) it looks like the day I put it in.
For what it's worth, the TL is now a short trip car that rarely sees the freeway (and the lead footed girlfriend drives it) so this UOA will not be working in Amsoil's favor but I have a feeling it's going to turn out ok. I'll definately post results when I get it back. I only wish I would've done a UOA on the factory fill for comparison.
Quote:
the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material.
Do you have a source for this? Suspended clutch material can not be good. It means clutch wear has happened.
My Odyssey ATF gets dark to black in 10,000 miles and it failed at 72,000 miles. ATF changed every 10,000 miles. The only one of my cars to get dark ATF so soon or fail so very soon. My Fords and Chryslers lasted much longer and I sold them still shifting well with pink ATF. In my case, dark fluid did happen in the vehicle that had transmission failure. So I believe that dark ATF means bad things.
the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material.
Do you have a source for this? Suspended clutch material can not be good. It means clutch wear has happened.
My Odyssey ATF gets dark to black in 10,000 miles and it failed at 72,000 miles. ATF changed every 10,000 miles. The only one of my cars to get dark ATF so soon or fail so very soon. My Fords and Chryslers lasted much longer and I sold them still shifting well with pink ATF. In my case, dark fluid did happen in the vehicle that had transmission failure. So I believe that dark ATF means bad things.
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Originally Posted By: thrace
Quote:
the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material.
Do you have a source for this? Suspended clutch material can not be good. It means clutch wear has happened.
My Odyssey ATF gets dark to black in 10,000 miles and it failed at 72,000 miles. ATF changed every 10,000 miles. The only one of my cars to get dark ATF so soon or fail so very soon. My Fords and Chryslers lasted much longer and I sold them still shifting well with pink ATF. In my case, dark fluid did happen in the vehicle that had transmission failure. So I believe that dark ATF means bad things.
What year Odyssey?
Quote:
the fluid discoloring is because it is suspending clutch material.
Do you have a source for this? Suspended clutch material can not be good. It means clutch wear has happened.
My Odyssey ATF gets dark to black in 10,000 miles and it failed at 72,000 miles. ATF changed every 10,000 miles. The only one of my cars to get dark ATF so soon or fail so very soon. My Fords and Chryslers lasted much longer and I sold them still shifting well with pink ATF. In my case, dark fluid did happen in the vehicle that had transmission failure. So I believe that dark ATF means bad things.
What year Odyssey?
This discussion has seemed to bolster my original plan. If the fluid stays red (I know that brown is not ALWAYS bad) then a partial 3 quart change every 30K ought to be fine. If it turns brown, I will change it, earlier if necessary, following the 4X drain/fill procedure to get all the old stuff out. I seriously doubt Honda's maintenance minder is set at negligence levels. I would think doing the 1X drain and fills every 30K you are already WAY ahead of the computer and being conservative. I just want to make sure the trans lasts, but I am also not one for overkill. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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