5 Yrs, 124k, Orig. Brakes, Orig. Fluid. Bleed ??

[Turk]

On my '03 GMC Sierra that has 124k on it, the brake pads have about 75% left on them and brake smooth

!!

I am super careful how I brake, don't let them slip forward at stop lights, etc.

Should I bleed the original DOT 3 Brake Fluid and put in new or just leave well enough alone...??

 

[cmhj]

I've always tried to at a minimum do a bleed every 2-3 years. I've never done a complete flush even in some vehicles that I've kept for over 12-13 years. I just do a good bleed every couple of years and leave it at that.

The way I do it is to suck out as much fluid from the master cyl. as I can first. I then refill & go thru a bleeding process, which probably is close to a flush.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Over the yrs I have realized by replishing the master cylinder with new brake fluid does the same as a bleed. Old and new brake fluid of the same type will readily mix.

But with the miles you have do a bleed and then every 2 yrs replinish the master with fresh brake fluid. Will work like a charm.

 

[Kestas]

Wouldn't mileage also be a factor in brake bleeding? At 25K per year, a flush every 2-3 years would mean every 50-75K! I bring this up because Volvo requires brake bleeding every 2 years or 40K.

Anyhow, tpitcher is way overdue on brake fluid service. Even though they stop smoothly, I wouldn't be surprised if the brakes need additional service. With the MN climate, I'd clean and relube the brake sliding components.

 

[Turk]

It's overdue. It just brakes so good.

Is the Amsoil Brake Fluid better than types of regular store bought brake fluid??

 

[MaximaGuy]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
It's overdue. It just brakes so good.

Is the Amsoil Brake Fluid better than types of regular store bought brake fluid??


Agree with Kestas but my observation with DOT3 has been that I get the same effects vs a bleed and drain and fill of the master cylinder. But there is nothing better than a bleed, period if you have a willing partner to help you. In my case my wife will make it a big deal to pump the brakes etc. though most of the work is done by me at the bleeder screws.

I have had excellent results and so have many on this forum with Valvoline Syn DOT3 fluid if you vehicle is speced for it.

But to go Amsoil may be unnecessary if you have to order it online/via one of their distributors, Amsoil in general is a boutique oil company choosing their coolants, brake fluids, greases might be giving them more credit that they already deserve.

 

[Kestas]

In those tough spots when I can't get a qualified pedal pumper, I use the one-man system where I attach a hose to the bleeder, crack open the bleeder just a bit and pump away at the pedal. The bleeder is open enough to force the fluid out under pressure, but there's just enough restriction to prevent slurping back. I never hesitate to use this method.

 

[VK56VD]

tpitcher:

You say "I am super careful how I brake, don't let them slip forward at stop lights, etc."

What harm does this do?

 

[The Critic]

I did the first bleed on my dad's van after 15 years and 67k. I also did my Saturn at the same time, and it was 11 years old and had 100k.

Neither of the vehicles had ever seen snow, so the bleeders screws loosened very easily. This may not be the case for you, so be careful. Spray some PB Blaster onto the screws and let it soak for a little while before you begin.

 

[mechtech2]

Congrats on getting a projected 500,000 miles on your brake pads.

You can always simply suck out the old brake fluid from the reservoir, and replace with fresh, if you don't want to bleed it right now. Do this once a week for 2-4 weeks.

 

[cmhj]

The reason you want to bleed things out a bit every few years is due to sediment accumulating in the brake cyl.

I have no clue how many times I've done a brake job where the brake cyl. was leaking. I'd pull it either to rebuild or replace and the guts were full of slime.

Just pulling out fluid from the master and refilling won't clear the brake cyl. But to each his/her own methods.

Otherwise just do like most people do and that's nothing.

Of course all IMVH and likely stupid opinion.

 

[Eddie]

Brakes can feel smooth and good in daily drives. When the panic stop is required is when you boil the fluid because of excessive moisture and find the problem i.e. bad braking. I think a flush is in order.

 

[heyjayman]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
On my '03 GMC Sierra that has 124k on it Should I bleed the original DOT 3 Brake Fluid and put in new or just leave well enough alone...??


I used to have a 2000 GMC Sierra. If you drive in winter with road deicing - salt - pay attention to the rear calipers. They tend to stick unless you clean and lube the caliper slide pins

Not sure if 2003 or 2004 was when GM went back to drums on their half ton trucks. The drums have far fewer issues

To flush the brakes, use something to slurp the old fluid out of the reservoir. It's difficult to get out all of it though, there are little plastic baffles that prevent you from reaching every corner of the reservoir.

Have a helper step on the brake pedal while you start at the rear right, open the bleed valve and let the fluid go out. It will take some time and quite a few brake cycles until clean fluid comes out

Note: keep an eye on the reservoir level and make sure to keep it topped off. You do NOT want to run the reservoir dry, that will ruin your day

Most modern vehicles with ABS can still be bled/flushed the old fashioned way, or with minor modification to technique, and without the need for a scantool.

For example, my ’07 FJ Cruiser has electric assist brakes. If you follow the shop manual, you do NOT pump the brake pedal while flushing: you keep firm/steady pressure on the pedal while the helper opens the bleed valve

The +04 Prius is another animal. It also has electric power assist brakes, but uses solenoid valves and a “stroke simulator valve” to properly route brake fluid and work with regenerative braking. In that car, you MUST use the dealer scantool to properly bleed/flush the brakes, or they stop working

If in doubt, you can purchase a subscription to an online shop manual source. Toyota charges $10/day, and in that time you can download everything you need. Another source that I use is All Data DIY, you purchase a yearly subscription. Well worth the minor cost if you have any doubt or concerns!