I am getting ready to do the brakes on my Nissan Altima. What is the best DOT 3,4 brake fluid available. I have used Valvoline stuff before, and it makes the brakes feel a little mushy. What are some opinions?
Best DOT 3, 4 Brake Fluid?
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Originally Posted By: Cooper
I am getting ready to do the brakes on my Nissan Altima. What is the best DOT 3,4 brake fluid available. I have used Valvoline stuff before, and it makes the brakes feel a little mushy. What are some opinions?
hey not sure if this is correct but isn't the mushy feeling a result of air in the brake system?
i use ate super blue racing fluid dot 4
I am getting ready to do the brakes on my Nissan Altima. What is the best DOT 3,4 brake fluid available. I have used Valvoline stuff before, and it makes the brakes feel a little mushy. What are some opinions?
hey not sure if this is correct but isn't the mushy feeling a result of air in the brake system?
i use ate super blue racing fluid dot 4
Originally Posted By: Cooper
used Valvoline stuff before, and it makes the brakes feel a little mushy. What are some opinions?
Always mushy or only under severe use? I can't imagine any fluid would make your brakes mushy when cold unless some air got in the system.
used Valvoline stuff before, and it makes the brakes feel a little mushy. What are some opinions?
Always mushy or only under severe use? I can't imagine any fluid would make your brakes mushy when cold unless some air got in the system.
Ah, I guess I would just say a little softer than the previous fluid. Not really mushy like air in the line though. It is just a little softer IMHO.
Brake fluids are pretty much all the same.
First thing....make sure that what you use is compatible with what you have in there.....not all are.
Then, you can read up on the rated "dry boil" temperature and the rated "Wet boil" temperature.
These are 2 numbers to use in comparining the fluids.....that should be listed on the label (better yet.....listed in the information that you can get in a internet search).
The DOT3 and DOT4 have MINIMUM dry and wet boil points, but some brands are higher.
I found that Motorcraft has a dry boil point of 550 degrees, which is pretty high for a non-specialty fluid.
Also, it is good to keep it fresh......bleed a bit at each wheel every year.
I was suprised to find that the repair instructions for a brake job on my vehicle had you remove some fluid from the master cylinder....and push the caliper piston in...when replacing the disk brake pads.
There is no mention of bleeding fluid at the wheel during a brake job in the factory instructions.
The old method is to bleed the fluid out at the caliper......while you push the piston in.
The fluid "wears".....gets contaminated.....heated...etc the most at the wheel.....so it is best to bleed that out periodically.
Then, you can read up on the rated "dry boil" temperature and the rated "Wet boil" temperature.
These are 2 numbers to use in comparining the fluids.....that should be listed on the label (better yet.....listed in the information that you can get in a internet search).
The DOT3 and DOT4 have MINIMUM dry and wet boil points, but some brands are higher.
I found that Motorcraft has a dry boil point of 550 degrees, which is pretty high for a non-specialty fluid.
Also, it is good to keep it fresh......bleed a bit at each wheel every year.
I was suprised to find that the repair instructions for a brake job on my vehicle had you remove some fluid from the master cylinder....and push the caliper piston in...when replacing the disk brake pads.
There is no mention of bleeding fluid at the wheel during a brake job in the factory instructions.
The old method is to bleed the fluid out at the caliper......while you push the piston in.
The fluid "wears".....gets contaminated.....heated...etc the most at the wheel.....so it is best to bleed that out periodically.
Comparison chart for your convenience: Brake Fluid Comparison Chart
Originally Posted By: mikered30
All brake fluids are synthetic, except for the silicone fluids.
I think most of us are aware of this. More looking for the chart that was listed a couple posts up.
Thanks for that chart by the way.
All brake fluids are synthetic, except for the silicone fluids.
I think most of us are aware of this. More looking for the chart that was listed a couple posts up.
Thanks for that chart by the way.
AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid has a dry ERBP of 304°C (580°F) and wet ERBP of 210°C (410°F).
Valvoline DOT 4 has always made the brake pedal feel softer in the cars I use in. I suspect that it is less viscous than other fluids, that is why it feels softer.
Brake fluid is incompressible, so one brake fluid should not feel softer than others. A softer pedal feel could mean that you got air in the system. When I used the Synpower brake fluid, I got a firmer pedal.
"Brake fluid is incompressible, so one brake fluid should not feel softer than others. A softer pedal feel could mean that you got air in the system. When I used the Synpower brake fluid, I got a firmer pedal."
I know that this is theoretically correct, but I had a similar problem on my pickup when I switched the clutch over to DOT4. I bled it... and bled it again... and bled it again.
I finally thought that the slave cylinder must have blown a seal, but before springing for a new one, I decided to switch it back to DOT3, which instantly solved the problem.
I have no explanation for it. But I can assure you that there was no air in that system.
I know that this is theoretically correct, but I had a similar problem on my pickup when I switched the clutch over to DOT4. I bled it... and bled it again... and bled it again.
I finally thought that the slave cylinder must have blown a seal, but before springing for a new one, I decided to switch it back to DOT3, which instantly solved the problem.
I have no explanation for it. But I can assure you that there was no air in that system.
If you are getting a somewhat mushy pedal feel and have bled all the air out try cleaning the brake pads & rotors. You could be pushing against rust or salt corrosion causing that feel. This is common on some imports like Honda & Nissan especially on the rear rotors that don't get hot enough to self clean. I get this on my CRV and I got to one of those DIY car washes and powerwash the brakes when it happens. Just don't over do it and force water into the system. I spray them with brakekleen & power wash it off.
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wiswind said:
The "best" readily available fluid was Valvoline Synpower, but someone posted here that they've changed the formula recently, and not for the better. Good value, too, but dumbing it down has made it less of the favorite.
Next in the readily available category would be the old standby, Castrol LMA.
A little harder to find off-the-shelf, unless your area has a healthy population of European cars, is Ate Typ200/Super Blue.
Excellent performance, can go 3 years, and much better value compared to many of the hi-po specialty fluids.
I usually use either the Synpower or the Ate fluids, and can concur that the latter do give a slightly firmer pedal. It's only a slight difference, but still palpable.
Next in the readily available category would be the old standby, Castrol LMA.
A little harder to find off-the-shelf, unless your area has a healthy population of European cars, is Ate Typ200/Super Blue.
Excellent performance, can go 3 years, and much better value compared to many of the hi-po specialty fluids.
I usually use either the Synpower or the Ate fluids, and can concur that the latter do give a slightly firmer pedal. It's only a slight difference, but still palpable.
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Anyone know the difference between the old Valvoline brake fluid (Synpower) and the newer kind? I know the Synpower is discontinued, anyone know why?
It is the same thing, just new packaging. They are no longer using the Synpower name on it. But, the product data sheet has the excact same specs.
Anyone know the difference between the old Valvoline brake fluid (Synpower) and the newer kind? I know the Synpower is discontinued, anyone know why?
It is the same thing, just new packaging. They are no longer using the Synpower name on it. But, the product data sheet has the excact same specs.
Originally Posted By: Cooper
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Anyone know the difference between the old Valvoline brake fluid (Synpower) and the newer kind? I know the Synpower is discontinued, anyone know why?
It is the same thing, just new packaging. They are no longer using the Synpower name on it. But, the product data sheet has the excact same specs.
Thanks
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Anyone know the difference between the old Valvoline brake fluid (Synpower) and the newer kind? I know the Synpower is discontinued, anyone know why?
It is the same thing, just new packaging. They are no longer using the Synpower name on it. But, the product data sheet has the excact same specs.
Thanks
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