Auto-Rx question about oil filters

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I saw in a few auto-rx threads about oil filters being full. I have been sitting here wondering how you would know it was full?

hopefully this thread is acceptable in this forum.

thanks Matt
 
Some folks cut 'em open with a Dremel tool or a cutter made psecifically for cutting oil filter housings, possibly other tools could be used also (cutting torch is a no-no of course). This way the filter medium can be examined carefully.
 
I understand how to open them so to say.

I just read some of these replies along the lines of "my filter was full so I had to put a new one on during the rinse phase" and I really do not understand unless you could tell your filter was going into bypass that it was full
 
Originally Posted By: MattPersman
I understand how to open them so to say.

I just read some of these replies along the lines of "my filter was full so I had to put a new one on during the rinse phase" and I really do not understand unless you could tell your filter was going into bypass that it was full


In that regard I agree- I don't understand either.

A strange exception though will occur with one of my old Slant Six cars; I can tell by the behavior of the idiot light if the bypass is engaged because it always seems to stick in bypass mode when it happens. That's an exception though.
 
You can tell if your filter is plugged. When the car is at operating temps touch the oil filter, if it is warm you have oil going through it, if it is cold, your oil filter is plugged and the oil isn't being filtered.
 
This would likely not work with my Chev 454, though, because the oil filter location is VERY close to the exhaust manifold and the heat transfer would probably give a false indication.

It would probably be an effective diagnostic method on my other vehicles, however. Thank you much for the tip.
 
Excuse me, ..... but when filters go into bypass, doesn't the ADB valve just open, to let oil pass through the filter housing without going through the filter medium?
 
Good question, I don't know. I am by no means an expert at this and was just using my elementry skills to come up with some kind of conclusion on what might be the cause. If you are right my theory goes out the window. Can anyone confirm?
 
If it's a open end bypass valve, then it may be true. If it's dome end ...then it will just pass over the media. This is if it's truly plugged up. That is, absolutely full of goo. That would be a severe case. Now you will surely saturate the media well before that event occurs.

With GM engines, up until 2007, it may work out due to no bypass valve.
 
indeed a strange topic I suppose. I thought it was when I read various posts about oil filters full from Auto-rx treatment after what I think is short mileage
 
What I meant by "full" or loaded up filters, from an ARX treatment, is that they are very flow restricted. I didn't mean they are in bypass necessarily. I can't speak for the others though.
 
Originally Posted By: Headnsouth
here's an example of a filter that has a bit of junk that ARX has cleaned up. I just finished the clean phase when these pics were taken. Look towards the bottom of the page.
http://auto-rx.activeboard.com/index.spark?forumID=108943&p=3&topicID=14435425


Thanks for posting that Headnsouth.

That is what my filters looked like also. I don't know if it is just the picture quality, but my filters were also liberally peppered, with a large amount of shiny hard black carbon grit. Likely as not, very fine carbon grit is what saturated my filters, and the more obvious larger granules just appeared to be additional.

My filters may never have gone into bypass. There is little doubt though, in my mind anyway, that they were severely flow restricted.

That's why I decided to change filters every 500 miles, and I am doing the same during the second ARX treatment.
 
In pic #7 you can see the lines from the filter cage that are clean compared to other sections. I'm expecting the next filter change to be just as saturated or worse and the next clean/rinse phase to have completely clog the filter.
 
Well, I'm about 1600 miles into my rinse phase on my 50K mile, 3.8L GM engine. Should I swap out the filter before the 3K rinse phase is over?
 
Yeah, I am still confused. You can tell that it was stopped up after you remove it and cut it open but how can you tell if it is severely restricted while it is still on the vehicle?
 
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral

Well, I'm about 1600 miles into my rinse phase on my 50K mile, 3.8L GM engine. Should I swap out the filter before the 3K rinse phase is over?

I don't see a need with those miles unless its severely sludged. if you'll sleep better buy a filter it couldn't hurt.
 
Originally Posted By: Reishi
Yeah, I am still confused. You can tell that it was stopped up after you remove it and cut it open but how can you tell if it is severely restricted while it is still on the vehicle?

Just an FYI I have 172K miles on my Saturn thats been maintained by only me with OCI every 3-5k miles.

Don't think you can tell 100% but like I mentioned if it makes you sleep better change the filter. Whats it going to cost you?
 
Originally Posted By: Catterman
Good question, I don't know. I am by no means an expert at this and was just using my elementry skills to come up with some kind of conclusion on what might be the cause. If you are right my theory goes out the window. Can anyone confirm?


It's a good theory, and like Frank said, it really may apply to even most vehicles. Darned if I know for sure.
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