Rotella 10w-40, 7500 mi., 97 Toyota Camry 5S-FE

[KeithG]

Hello, First timer here. This oil drain, got away from me, but what are your thoughts? I bought this car last summer at a premium since I knew the owner.

I'm using a Fram filter and driving in Iowa.

I'm thinking about picking up some Shaeffer oil this weekend for future winter runs, but still using the Rotella when I can easily change the oils at 5000 miles in the warmer months.

From Blackstone:
For an oil run 7,500 miles wear from your Camry looks great! Universal averages are based on an
oil run of ~3,900 miles. We've always thought that Toyota makes nicely wearing engines and engines that
wear like yours are why.

02/02/08
CAMRY
Gasoline (Unleaded)
Shell Rotella 10W/40 - (25% Mobil 1 10W-30)

MI/HR on Oil 7.5k Miles
MI/HR on Unit 98k Miles
Make Up Oil Added 0

ALUMINUM 5
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 11
COPPER 2
LEAD 2
TIN 1
MOLYBDENUM 6
NICKEL 0
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 19
SILICON 8
SODIUM 6
CALCIUM 2303
MAGNESIUM 8
PHOSPHORUS 854
ZINC 1120
BARIUM 0

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 66.5
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 12.03
Flashpoint in °F 370
Fuel % Antifreeze % 0.0
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.3
TBN 0.3

 

[badtlc]

10-40 in a camry? Really? Any particular reason?

 

[tackleberry625]

IMO 10w-40 is too thick. I would use what the book/engine called for. Also, it's a good thing you changed it when you did looking at that TBN number.

 

[KeithG]

No reasons, I guess, other than lack of understanding and bad habits.

 

[deeter16317]

Hmmm, didn't know they made a Rotella 10w40...I might need to check this out, I have a use for that weight.

 

[Pablo]

Good wear numbers. You'll need to tell why your TBN was absolutely spent.

Are all engine breathing apparatus in good working order?
What exactly were your driving habits during this OCI?

 

[KeithG]

It oil must have been 15w-40, right? I had no idea about this analysis stuff when I did the previous oil change. It was 'normal' Rotella, though.

Driving habits: at least 75% highway. Plenty of idling during morning 'warm-ups'. Very close to grandma-style acceleration/ braking

Engine breathing: Is this question related to both intake and vacuum tubes? The air-filter looked stock and pretty clean, but I haven't replaced it recently. There have been no MIL alerts or codes.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

 

[badtlc]

The warmups probably zapped the life out of this oil. Fuel "could be" a problem.

 

[glennc]

Yes, 15W-40 is the normal Rotalla, and I agree you would benefit from going to a 5W-30 or whatever is "preferred" by Toyota. I doubt it caused any wear, but you probably paid a small penalty in economy. The low TBN is surprising especially for an HDEO. I'd check what Pablo said. Everything else looks just fine.

It'll last forever as long as you get the TBN depletion under control.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: KeithG
Plenty of idling during morning 'warm-ups'. Very close to grandma-style acceleration.............Engine breathing: Is this question related to both intake and vacuum tubes? The air-filter looked stock and pretty clean, but I haven't replaced it recently. There have been no MIL alerts or codes.


First of all idling is not a good thing. Start it, let the oil flow for a few moments and drive off easy. Idling will cause crank case build up and won't help drive off moisture. As for engine breathing, I'm referring to the PCV system valve - assure this is clear and functional.

 

[glennc]

Oh I missed that follow-up post.

I concur with Pablo. Again.

Knock out the excessive warm-up times and get a little more heat into the oil on occasion, if you can. It didn't affect wear here but unless there was another problem it was obviously damaging to the oil, and it could be damaging to the car in the future (or could even have been damaging in ways not shown by UOA). I'm surprised there was no excess fuel, but there could have been high fuel at various times in the OCI that was burned off by a long drive before you changed it. Or if you or the lab left the sample un-capped, the fuel could have evaporated before it was tested.

 

[addyguy]

I don't understand the criticism on the viscosity - oil ended up as a thick 30-weight, and if he had used GC, or a high mileage oil, he would have been using the same viscosity!

Looks like a good run - got your money's worth out of the oil right to the end.

 

[glennc]

The question is why use a higher viscosity than called for? Especially when cold: 5W (I assume) vs 15W. But even if it were 5W-40 I'd make the same argument. No gain, but some small certain loss (economy).

 

[KeithG]

The viscosity question, for me, is a good one. I appreciate the discussion between others on the list. I believe that I thought a higher visc. provided better engine protection in exchange for a bit of fuel economy. I also thought that viscosity always decreased in used oil over the life of the oil.

I knew about how cold starts are harder with higher visc. oil, but previous experience has informed me that 15w-40 wasn't a problem for me.

Now that I've found this site, I'm learning more about things. Thanks for all the help.

 

[addyguy]

With how hard this engine obviously is on oil, an HDEO, such as as this 15W-40, is a good choice if you want to go with longer oci's, but not pay for a synthetic. As I said, this OCI and weight seemed to work perfectly in your engine, so keep using it if you are comfortable with it....

 

[Max_Wander]

Could the precursor to sludge behaviour cause the TBN to deplete so fast? I've got the exact same car turning 301000+km's on the ODO. Currently filled with 75% 20w20 and 25% 0w30. This is the only oil mixture that has ever eliminated the cold engine piston slap even at -20*C!!, first time blending with 20w20 too. I went straight weight in this thing to avoid sludge, the piston slap riddance was a bonus. Yours dont seem to be doing too badly at all with the 40wt HDEO either. Stave off the crud buildup and you'll be fine for double your clicks.