Someone correct me here. Mobil oils: The 5000 mile oil for 5k miles, the 7500 one for 7500 miles. Approx 10k miles for regular M1 and then 15k miles for the M1 EP? Sounds good to me. Fine tune with UOA if desired. Some cars/driving conditions may require shorter intervals?
mobil 1 and mobil 1 ep difference
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yes i believe thats true.
i think the extra few dollars for the ep is good extra insurance even if your oci's are less than 15k miles with this oil, just because the ep has 50% more super syn than mobil 1 and more cleaning agents and such.
mobil 1 ep does have a thinner base than regular mobil 1 and most people dont feal like changing their oil when its freezing outside in that case making mobil 1 ep a good choice for its extended service during the winter. It shouldnt hurt anything.
currently I'm doing a check-out about this myself. My Durango has EP just to see what happens cuz I only drive my truck every other day so my miles is almost 50% less than usual. Gas price is so high that I'm forced to drive conservatively.
Durango
Durango
The Mobil 1 EP oils claim to have more anti-wear additives than regular Mobil 1, but this does not seem to be supported by the oil analysis reports I've seen. Are there other anti-wear additives in EP that are not reported in a standard oil analysis?
Mobil 1 meets GM4718 in 5w30 and 10w30 per the website, but this is not shown on the 10w30 container. Anyone know why this is the case? Also, why doesn't the Mobil 1 EP oils carry the GM4718 endorsement?
Mobil 1 meets GM4718 in 5w30 and 10w30 per the website, but this is not shown on the 10w30 container. Anyone know why this is the case? Also, why doesn't the Mobil 1 EP oils carry the GM4718 endorsement?
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Originally Posted By: ant
The Mobil 1 EP oils claim to have more anti-wear additives than regular Mobil 1, but this does not seem to be supported by the oil analysis reports I've seen. Are there other anti-wear additives in EP that are not reported in a standard oil analysis?
I agree with this. The EP may last longer - but I don't feel it protects as well. It also showed me that it consumed more than the regular M-1 in exact same OCI length comparisons.
Stick with the regular M-1 whenver possible.... just my opinion.
The Mobil 1 EP oils claim to have more anti-wear additives than regular Mobil 1, but this does not seem to be supported by the oil analysis reports I've seen. Are there other anti-wear additives in EP that are not reported in a standard oil analysis?
I agree with this. The EP may last longer - but I don't feel it protects as well. It also showed me that it consumed more than the regular M-1 in exact same OCI length comparisons.
Stick with the regular M-1 whenver possible.... just my opinion.
When EP first came out it was not a starburst oil and at that time was being hailed somewhat by Terry and others as a higher quality syn oil based on UOA, etc. Then after/around Katrina it was reformulated probably and then became a starburst oil and after that the supposed rumors of GrIII, etc. Soon the UOA wear numbers were not as attractive. Also there was the negative feedback of the track crowd about the lessened protection of the 15W-50 EP vs former red cap. Soon the EP version of that went away(it seems) and we got a better 15W-50 again (silver cap).
uoa's don't show any meaningful difference between Mobil 1 and EP. The real difference must be marketing. They have to claim something different for EP if they are going to charge more. They appear to be different but since figuring out what the differences are in the bottle is beyond most they can make the claim and ask for more money. Good marketing. They sell so much of this stuff they can go back to the lab again and again to trim the formula back and still keep the API cert. In the end any average oil like Mobil 1 should do just fine in any reasonable application. If Mobil 1 is your pick I'd skip the EP and stick with regular Mobil 1. If you can't tell the difference why pay for it.
Originally Posted By: Dr_No
Then someone else walks in with their biased statements.
Stirs the pot... and here we go again.
I tend to agree.
Then someone else walks in with their biased statements.
Stirs the pot... and here we go again.
I tend to agree.
Are there any negatives to the EP formula, supposing the price is the same? They're on sale at AAP for the same price. I was going to try the EP figuring it has a better add pack. Just looked up the 5W-20 and the pour and flash points are better on the EP. More PAO?
Same price then EP is better choice.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: turboaccord1
ive never used a high mileage oil, what are the advantages?
Usually a little thicker base stock to help with blow-by, a few more detergents to help clean a little, some seal conditioner to soften old hard seals (usually some type of ester).
There u go Johnny...u got me 2nd guessing my decision to switch my '98 360 Jeep w/ 178k to YB HM. I had been using M-1 HM 10w30 and decided that a dino HM might be better & more cost-effective choice since the vehicle is now only driven a few thousand miles per year. But you got me wondering if M-1 HM is still the better choice. I wish they made PP in HM formula with more ZDDP, ester, etc., etc...
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Since we are talking about Mobil 1, I will tell you of my conversation I had with them last week. I was inquiring about some products for my recently purchased Jeep Wrangler that now has 3,300 miles on it.
Question: Which Mobil 1 product do you recommend.
Answer: Regular Mobil 1 unless I plan on extending oil changes to 15K, and no need for high mileage oil if I start out on Mobil 1.
Question: Can I use Mobil 1 ATF in the automatic transmission & transfer case.
Answer: After being put on hold (I assume to either look in his book or ask someone) the answer was yes I could.
Question: Can I use Mobil 1 LS75W90 in the front & rear differentials.
Answer: Yes I can, but I would need to add the requires LS additive from Mopar.
Question: I thought your 75W90 had this additive.
Answer: It does, but not enough to meet Dana specs. Add the Mopar stuff.
Question: Can I go longer than the recommended 12K without changing out the gear oils if I use Mobil 1 LS75W90.
Answer: No. Do what Mopar recommends.
I left the conversation at that and thanked him for his time.
And I can tell you this is a raging debate over on the Jeep forums. Maybe the M-1 guy did not know what he was talking about, or maybe M-1 gear oil has much less additive than Royal Purple. But most people over there agree that Royal Purple has enough additive so that you do not need to add the Mopar stuff too. As a matter of fact, by adding the FULL recommended amount of the Mopar stuff to gear oil that already has LS additive, you run the risk of using too much and then your posi unit will not lockup like it should when in slippery conditions or even slip too much and cause the clutches to burn up sooner. This happened to me Johnny...
The proper way to handle the LSD gear oils is to not use the Mopar Friction Modifier unless you get chatter...then if you do, only add it in small increments until it is working as it should. Say maybe 1oz increments or maybe even up to HALF the recommended amount when adding to RP or M1 gear oils that are already formulated for LSD but you still are experiencing chatter...but MOST will say (at least with RP brand), that you rarely have an issue to where the Mopar stuff is required...Again, I am not against adding it, but you just do not want TOO MUCH LSD additive and you must assume that when using a gear oil that already has it, why would you need the FULL amount.
I am disappointed in the Mobil-1 support guy you spoke with for not elaborating more.
Originally Posted By: turboaccord1
ive never used a high mileage oil, what are the advantages?
Usually a little thicker base stock to help with blow-by, a few more detergents to help clean a little, some seal conditioner to soften old hard seals (usually some type of ester).
There u go Johnny...u got me 2nd guessing my decision to switch my '98 360 Jeep w/ 178k to YB HM. I had been using M-1 HM 10w30 and decided that a dino HM might be better & more cost-effective choice since the vehicle is now only driven a few thousand miles per year. But you got me wondering if M-1 HM is still the better choice. I wish they made PP in HM formula with more ZDDP, ester, etc., etc...
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Since we are talking about Mobil 1, I will tell you of my conversation I had with them last week. I was inquiring about some products for my recently purchased Jeep Wrangler that now has 3,300 miles on it.
Question: Which Mobil 1 product do you recommend.
Answer: Regular Mobil 1 unless I plan on extending oil changes to 15K, and no need for high mileage oil if I start out on Mobil 1.
Question: Can I use Mobil 1 ATF in the automatic transmission & transfer case.
Answer: After being put on hold (I assume to either look in his book or ask someone) the answer was yes I could.
Question: Can I use Mobil 1 LS75W90 in the front & rear differentials.
Answer: Yes I can, but I would need to add the requires LS additive from Mopar.
Question: I thought your 75W90 had this additive.
Answer: It does, but not enough to meet Dana specs. Add the Mopar stuff.
Question: Can I go longer than the recommended 12K without changing out the gear oils if I use Mobil 1 LS75W90.
Answer: No. Do what Mopar recommends.
I left the conversation at that and thanked him for his time.
And I can tell you this is a raging debate over on the Jeep forums. Maybe the M-1 guy did not know what he was talking about, or maybe M-1 gear oil has much less additive than Royal Purple. But most people over there agree that Royal Purple has enough additive so that you do not need to add the Mopar stuff too. As a matter of fact, by adding the FULL recommended amount of the Mopar stuff to gear oil that already has LS additive, you run the risk of using too much and then your posi unit will not lockup like it should when in slippery conditions or even slip too much and cause the clutches to burn up sooner. This happened to me Johnny...
The proper way to handle the LSD gear oils is to not use the Mopar Friction Modifier unless you get chatter...then if you do, only add it in small increments until it is working as it should. Say maybe 1oz increments or maybe even up to HALF the recommended amount when adding to RP or M1 gear oils that are already formulated for LSD but you still are experiencing chatter...but MOST will say (at least with RP brand), that you rarely have an issue to where the Mopar stuff is required...Again, I am not against adding it, but you just do not want TOO MUCH LSD additive and you must assume that when using a gear oil that already has it, why would you need the FULL amount.
I am disappointed in the Mobil-1 support guy you spoke with for not elaborating more.
Castrol EDGE claims 8X better wear protection against Mobil 1 not the EP formula. I can't find the graph plotting EDGE vs Mobil 1 but the wear disparity was at the tail end of the chart, around the last 25 percent. The test is a function of time. In the real world that time would be mileage wouldn't it?
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Castrol EDGE claims 8X better wear protection against Mobil 1 not the EP formula. I can't find the graph plotting EDGE vs Mobil 1 but the wear disparity was at the tail end of the chart, around the last 25 percent. The test is a function of time. In the real world that time would be mileage wouldn't it?
Castrol has always "pushed the envelope" when it comes to advertising claims, as they were the first to claim that a Group III was a full synthetic (and eventually got a bonehead judge to agree). My guess is that the 8X claim is based on the amount of a particular additive, and not that there is actually 8X times less wear compared to M1. But there are other things that contribute to wear protection, such as the quality of the base stock and other additives that M1 may use that are different than the one used in Edge.
Castrol EDGE claims 8X better wear protection against Mobil 1 not the EP formula. I can't find the graph plotting EDGE vs Mobil 1 but the wear disparity was at the tail end of the chart, around the last 25 percent. The test is a function of time. In the real world that time would be mileage wouldn't it?
Castrol has always "pushed the envelope" when it comes to advertising claims, as they were the first to claim that a Group III was a full synthetic (and eventually got a bonehead judge to agree). My guess is that the 8X claim is based on the amount of a particular additive, and not that there is actually 8X times less wear compared to M1. But there are other things that contribute to wear protection, such as the quality of the base stock and other additives that M1 may use that are different than the one used in Edge.
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Originally Posted By: Dr_No
Thing is I dont care anymore.
People ask the same question 300 times it kind of gets old.
Then someone else walks in with their biased statements.
Stirs the pot... and here we go again.
Sure it gets old, but try using the search function! It sucks! I just tried finding a UOA from '03 where I ran M1 15w50, couldn't find it here. Frustrating. Hopefully the board software will have an improved search function in the next version.
I wouldn't want to be a new member here trying to search for answers. It's FAR easier to just ask.
So, given this issue, it's worth answering the questions again rather than searching for such things.
Thing is I dont care anymore.
People ask the same question 300 times it kind of gets old.
Then someone else walks in with their biased statements.
Stirs the pot... and here we go again.
Sure it gets old, but try using the search function! It sucks! I just tried finding a UOA from '03 where I ran M1 15w50, couldn't find it here. Frustrating. Hopefully the board software will have an improved search function in the next version.
I wouldn't want to be a new member here trying to search for answers. It's FAR easier to just ask.
So, given this issue, it's worth answering the questions again rather than searching for such things.
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Common sense is that the EP oil is better in order to hold up for 15K miles. We can bicker back and forth, but I don't think the Analysis shows EVERYTHING. It gives the basics in most cases. I do feel that the EP from bits that I have put together has a higher Ester Content in it. I think that is mainly what SuperSyn is. So since the EP has 50% more, then maybe there is 50% more ester base stocks in it? No one really knows except Mobil 1. I have used M1 EP for seveeral years in my Evo. Hundreds of WOT dynno runs, and Solo 2 track days. I have changed it every 3K as per Mitsubishi Severe Service Guide. To Date, I have no reason to believe that the oil is not holding up, or causing any problems. Only thing I don't like, is the ZDDP keeps dropping off in Mobil 1 products. The only M1 that is off the shelf that has decent ZDDP is the 15/50 or the 5/40 Diesel oil. The Racing Oil is good I am sure, but not sure if it would be wise to use in a daily driven vehicle. But then again, maybe I am wrong on that.
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