I take it your answer to my question is .....
First results of an Auto-Rx experiment
- Thread starter Gary Allan
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Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Well, Spitty, I won't kick you in the side here
It's just that many find it hard to figure the objection to $60 with the potential gains. Many of us are tightwads in measuring things of scale here on certain items. Most of us manage to save $1000's in DIY mode ..yet acknowledge that you can't hit any repair shop for even the most minor of needs without topping $100 for next to nothing. Most of us are wondering how you can resist trying it out of curiosity (most of us aren't here on BITOG because we have no interest in such matters) ..which is why you're probably seeing some of the "are you kidding me?" type responses.
If I was in a better financial disposition in terms of disposable cash, I'd have Frank send you two bottles just so you could find out. I'd be curious to see if you can justify a tear down and rebuild after you did either two conventional treatments or one of the heavy dose experiments that myself and a few others have tried with excellent success.
I do admire your willingness to regard an engine rebuild as I would a brake job. You're obviously not lazy (I like to call myself an "efficiency expert"
), but even you must surely not enjoy toil for toil's sake (some do
)
As far as time vs. mileage, I would imagine that some fuel component would work ..much like an hour meter would for a stationary installation. I'm of the impression that it requires so many circulation cycles "at temp" (probably) to be most effective. Fuel usage tends to take most operational conditions into account.
OK As I said I don't intend to hang out hear, but for those of you who have been courteous, perhaps I should set the record straight; I have worked a good part of my life as a motor engineer (my apprenticeship was with British Anzani) I am now in semi retirement and operate a Shade Tree Garage serving classic British car owners. Pulling and rebuilding a low tech engine like a 22R does not scare me, the machine shop I use owes me a favour (or two) and this Truck is not my primary transport.
As I have stated I bought the truck a few months back, and cosmetically it's in Mint condition. However I suspected that mechanically somthing was amiss. On a quick investigation (last week) I found the underside of the valve cover to have the characteristic 'Brown Crud' brought about by coolant in the oil, the engine appears to have a new cyl head gasket and a new Heater hose (all other hosed are quite hard after 24 years)
I did a scope check of the cyl bores (Fibre optic camera through the spark plug hole) Cyls 2 & 3 show a band of Rust pitting (Coolant has been sitting in the bores from a head gasket leak)
I'm surprised this engine does not burn more oil!
I suspect that the contaminated oil has taken it's toll on the engine bearings (oil pressure is low even with 15w-40 oil) and I would proberbly hear a knock if it were not for a noisy timing chain. Perhaps because of my work and background, it irks me to drive a vehicle in less than excellent condition. I could most likely get a few more K miles out of this engine, but what's the point! There is also a squeal from the clutch release bearing that should be addressed.
Pulling the engine and rebuilding it with an overbore will cost me about $300 and about 20 hours shop time, which for me, at this time of year is not a big deal.
As I have said, I'm sure ARx is a reputable product and has it's uses, But, (and maybe Frank and Sprintman would even agree?) It's not 'A New engine in a bottle'
I may take the kind offer, but NOT for this engine! I do have a client with a really nasty Austin Healey BN2, with his consent I will test it on his car at no charge (If that engine ends up leaking more than it does already, I do not want to be held responsible)
I have no intention of 'Joining in the Game' as Frank would put it, I have found the arragance and disrespect I have received on this forum a little hard to forgive, But if my friend and client agrees to this test I will report the results here.
Forgive me if I choose not respond to further posts.
Well, Spitty, I won't kick you in the side here
If I was in a better financial disposition in terms of disposable cash, I'd have Frank send you two bottles just so you could find out. I'd be curious to see if you can justify a tear down and rebuild after you did either two conventional treatments or one of the heavy dose experiments that myself and a few others have tried with excellent success.
I do admire your willingness to regard an engine rebuild as I would a brake job. You're obviously not lazy (I like to call myself an "efficiency expert"
As far as time vs. mileage, I would imagine that some fuel component would work ..much like an hour meter would for a stationary installation. I'm of the impression that it requires so many circulation cycles "at temp" (probably) to be most effective. Fuel usage tends to take most operational conditions into account.
OK As I said I don't intend to hang out hear, but for those of you who have been courteous, perhaps I should set the record straight; I have worked a good part of my life as a motor engineer (my apprenticeship was with British Anzani) I am now in semi retirement and operate a Shade Tree Garage serving classic British car owners. Pulling and rebuilding a low tech engine like a 22R does not scare me, the machine shop I use owes me a favour (or two) and this Truck is not my primary transport.
As I have stated I bought the truck a few months back, and cosmetically it's in Mint condition. However I suspected that mechanically somthing was amiss. On a quick investigation (last week) I found the underside of the valve cover to have the characteristic 'Brown Crud' brought about by coolant in the oil, the engine appears to have a new cyl head gasket and a new Heater hose (all other hosed are quite hard after 24 years)
I did a scope check of the cyl bores (Fibre optic camera through the spark plug hole) Cyls 2 & 3 show a band of Rust pitting (Coolant has been sitting in the bores from a head gasket leak)
I'm surprised this engine does not burn more oil!
I suspect that the contaminated oil has taken it's toll on the engine bearings (oil pressure is low even with 15w-40 oil) and I would proberbly hear a knock if it were not for a noisy timing chain. Perhaps because of my work and background, it irks me to drive a vehicle in less than excellent condition. I could most likely get a few more K miles out of this engine, but what's the point! There is also a squeal from the clutch release bearing that should be addressed.
Pulling the engine and rebuilding it with an overbore will cost me about $300 and about 20 hours shop time, which for me, at this time of year is not a big deal.
As I have said, I'm sure ARx is a reputable product and has it's uses, But, (and maybe Frank and Sprintman would even agree?) It's not 'A New engine in a bottle'
I may take the kind offer, but NOT for this engine! I do have a client with a really nasty Austin Healey BN2, with his consent I will test it on his car at no charge (If that engine ends up leaking more than it does already, I do not want to be held responsible)
I have no intention of 'Joining in the Game' as Frank would put it, I have found the arragance and disrespect I have received on this forum a little hard to forgive, But if my friend and client agrees to this test I will report the results here.
Forgive me if I choose not respond to further posts.
Well, since time spent nor money either, does not constrain you, then why not give ARX a try just out of curiosity, as really I would think a motor engineer rather would be inclined?
Yeah, maybe if Spitty does sometime wander over here to Lynden I'll just -give- him two bottles out of my stash. It would be the old-fashioned BITOG thing to do I guess...
I'm more than willing to pay the regular price for two bottles, if the guy with the AH gives his consent to the trial.
Thank you for your generous offer.
Thank you for your generous offer.
Very nice pics.
OT a bit butI plan on doing a pre-ARX and post-ARX oil analysis on my recently purchased '99 Civic. Has anyone done a pre/post analysis before?
OT a bit butI plan on doing a pre-ARX and post-ARX oil analysis on my recently purchased '99 Civic. Has anyone done a pre/post analysis before?
There have been pre, post, and during ARX UOAs before. I don't know if this is specifically true for a '99 Civic though.
I can be overly sensitive to things people say myself at times......
I don't think Frank meant any disrespect. I think he just meant for you not to pre judge the product before you have tried it.
I don't think Frank meant any disrespect. I think he just meant for you not to pre judge the product before you have tried it.
Yes, from what I have learned of Frank, if I was in his shoes, I might be a little 'Crusty' too! No hard feelings here.
I'm looking forward to trying ARx and I keep looking at an old (I mean OLD) Ride on lawnmower with a 5hp B&S. It will get about 20 hours hard use this Spring, would that be long enough to do a cleaning and rinse? Oil pan capacity is about 1 Qt.
I'm looking forward to trying ARx and I keep looking at an old (I mean OLD) Ride on lawnmower with a 5hp B&S. It will get about 20 hours hard use this Spring, would that be long enough to do a cleaning and rinse? Oil pan capacity is about 1 Qt.
I am not "crusty" very protective ofAuto-Rx from those who don't know what there talking about and because Auto-Rx is sold all over the world want to make a run on distorting the chemistry and what it does.
"Did you know that the Auto-Rx® product added to your crankcase, not only works slowly and safely to dissolve contaminants, it also does not disrupt the host oil chemistry. It does provide for a lower coefficient of friction, it improves oil film Auto-Rx® does a lot more than clean"
Auto-Rx® does this by capturing blow-by combustion by-product contaminants, so the ad packs don't get depleted by the contaminants.
"Did you know that the Auto-Rx® product added to your crankcase, not only works slowly and safely to dissolve contaminants, it also does not disrupt the host oil chemistry. It does provide for a lower coefficient of friction, it improves oil film Auto-Rx® does a lot more than clean"
Auto-Rx® does this by capturing blow-by combustion by-product contaminants, so the ad packs don't get depleted by the contaminants.
SD26,
Yes. The chemistry is exactly the same.
Yes. The chemistry is exactly the same.
Ok, I hate to threadjack, but what oil would compatable when using the product? Maybe I'm "old school", but when I think of "synthetic" I think synthetic. I use Rotella T Synthetic in the E350, but I do not believe that it is actually synthetic. She's got 250k, and 180k of that wasn't mine. Runs well, gets used with a trailer, and isn't leaving the inventory soon.
I believe that I understand that Mobil 1 products that I have in my other cars are actually synthetic. But maybe someone here can actually enlighten me. Honestly, there's too much information for me to be an expert let alone be completely confident in my answers on oil anymore.
I believe that I understand that Mobil 1 products that I have in my other cars are actually synthetic. But maybe someone here can actually enlighten me. Honestly, there's too much information for me to be an expert let alone be completely confident in my answers on oil anymore.
Walmart supertech works great for ARX treatments.
Multipe engines-oils-enginelight-ticking-bio-oil here is post.
I'm in the clean phase on three cars. First time user of ARX. The ARX has added more seat of the pants pep, quited all three engines and I have the ARX in two auto-tranny's and they are running smooth as silk. All three cars have aprox. 135k miles. My wife wanted to know what I have done different to her 97 Intrepid. Shifts like new, engine quiter, more pep and the check engine light doesn't come on anymore. Dodge dealer had replaced EGR valve and checked error codes and it still came on from time to time. Not anymore. Not sure if ARX cleaned someting up or what. Bottom Line: Check engine light is off and I don't have to hear about that anymore. Using RLI Biosyn 15w40 HD in the clean phase with K&N Gold oil filter. So far this is one product that I have purchased that does what it claims. On my 96 Pathfinder the start up ticking noise and ticking I was hearing when at a stop light or at the drive thru at the bank is gone. Pathfinder is about 1300 miles into the clean phase. Intrepid is 900 miles into the clean phase. Infinity G20 is 1200 miles into clean phase. G20 probably needed the ARX more than the other two. My brother sold me this car and had only used dino oil and changed every 5k. My other two have had synthetic the entire time that I have owned them. I will use Delvac 1300 Super for the rinse phase. Will probably carry out clean phase to 3k miles. Not sure yet what filter I will use for the rinse phase. having good luck with K&N Gold. Only regret, is that I didn't use ARX sooner.
by mckennaiii
I'm in the clean phase on three cars. First time user of ARX. The ARX has added more seat of the pants pep, quited all three engines and I have the ARX in two auto-tranny's and they are running smooth as silk. All three cars have aprox. 135k miles. My wife wanted to know what I have done different to her 97 Intrepid. Shifts like new, engine quiter, more pep and the check engine light doesn't come on anymore. Dodge dealer had replaced EGR valve and checked error codes and it still came on from time to time. Not anymore. Not sure if ARX cleaned someting up or what. Bottom Line: Check engine light is off and I don't have to hear about that anymore. Using RLI Biosyn 15w40 HD in the clean phase with K&N Gold oil filter. So far this is one product that I have purchased that does what it claims. On my 96 Pathfinder the start up ticking noise and ticking I was hearing when at a stop light or at the drive thru at the bank is gone. Pathfinder is about 1300 miles into the clean phase. Intrepid is 900 miles into the clean phase. Infinity G20 is 1200 miles into clean phase. G20 probably needed the ARX more than the other two. My brother sold me this car and had only used dino oil and changed every 5k. My other two have had synthetic the entire time that I have owned them. I will use Delvac 1300 Super for the rinse phase. Will probably carry out clean phase to 3k miles. Not sure yet what filter I will use for the rinse phase. having good luck with K&N Gold. Only regret, is that I didn't use ARX sooner.
by mckennaiii
Actually I have been finding out that Auto-Rx is a bit more than an engine cleaner. I'm working out the details but I think there is a plan about to appear. Here is the idea. You put Auto-Rx in your engine as a maintenance dose, say three ounces. Now you keep track of the TBN, but establish a threshold that you want to stay above. I'm trying to figure out a cheap accurate enough TBN test (suggestions accepted) to establish a pattern to follow. When first setting this up you do some uoa’s and start a chart. If there is a pattern to the TBN and the oil getting used up you can in the future do just the TBN testing. You start a pattern of watching the TBN and as it drops you add a dose of Auto-Rx. It may be that it’s too complicated for the average consumer but no one here is in that category. Doing the setup you will have some uoa’s to guide not only the interval but the size of the does needed to effect a change in the range needed. This will also be a good measure of the effect of Auto-Rx done this way.
I think this kind of info is needed to use Auto-Rx more effectively. We may be missing some value when using Auto-Rx to just replace a solvent every now and then.
Lonnie has some test data that he will put together that will include smog testing, compression tests and pictures. We are of the opinion that there is more that can be done with Auto-Rx and any oil, including BioSyn. Lonnie is running a maintenance dose with BioSyn right now. He is watching for changes in oil consumption and early results are positive.
I think this kind of info is needed to use Auto-Rx more effectively. We may be missing some value when using Auto-Rx to just replace a solvent every now and then.
Lonnie has some test data that he will put together that will include smog testing, compression tests and pictures. We are of the opinion that there is more that can be done with Auto-Rx and any oil, including BioSyn. Lonnie is running a maintenance dose with BioSyn right now. He is watching for changes in oil consumption and early results are positive.
I had TAN drop by .5 when I put 6oz in my trans.
It's all good........................
Barkerman,
Are you suggesting that a second maintenance dose of ARX during an OCI is what is being tested? Or are you testing to see if it is more beneficial to add the maintenance dose mid stream of an OCI?
Are you suggesting that a second maintenance dose of ARX during an OCI is what is being tested? Or are you testing to see if it is more beneficial to add the maintenance dose mid stream of an OCI?
I think a pattern can be developed to adjust maintenance does bases on the TBN. This may be a way to extend the oci with a better margin of control. What I'm trying to get at is other things that you can do with Auto-Rx. It's possible that there are more attributes of Auto-Rx than we know about. Lonnie has been working with Frank on this very subject. Maybe Frank can chime in and say if he thinks Lonnie's ideas and testing is headed in the right direction.
There is the though that Auto-Rx might be a very good match with BioSyn but there has to be some work done to figure it out. No oil no matter how it's formulated does a good job of cleaning an engine. Some oils are better at keeping an engine clean but it appears that in any situation Auto-Rx can come in and finish the job. Because it works so well I was at first blinded to the idea that this is only one thing that Auto-Rx can do.
There is the though that Auto-Rx might be a very good match with BioSyn but there has to be some work done to figure it out. No oil no matter how it's formulated does a good job of cleaning an engine. Some oils are better at keeping an engine clean but it appears that in any situation Auto-Rx can come in and finish the job. Because it works so well I was at first blinded to the idea that this is only one thing that Auto-Rx can do.
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