will mobile 1 530 remove sludge on Volvo 2.5 turbo
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Use AutoRx for cleaning instead.
+1 on the AutoRx recommendation.
M1 alone will most likely not be powerful enough for this job.
M1 alone will most likely not be powerful enough for this job.
Originally Posted By: java
I have 50K miles. Always ran dealer oil at 3K OCI (castrol 5w30). Showing mild buildup on dipstick and oil cap. Just switched to Mobil 1 and hoping this will clean things up if I stick with 3K OCI. Any thoughts?
Don't waste your $$ on Mobil 1 and 3k OCIs.
To try to clean, go back to the GTX (or use Pennzoil, Qs, Valvoline, ETC) and ARX. (and FOLLOW the DIRECTIONS)
Then go to the oil of your choice.
Bill
PS: Spell checker is your friend!
I have 50K miles. Always ran dealer oil at 3K OCI (castrol 5w30). Showing mild buildup on dipstick and oil cap. Just switched to Mobil 1 and hoping this will clean things up if I stick with 3K OCI. Any thoughts?
Don't waste your $$ on Mobil 1 and 3k OCIs.
To try to clean, go back to the GTX (or use Pennzoil, Qs, Valvoline, ETC) and ARX. (and FOLLOW the DIRECTIONS)
Then go to the oil of your choice.
Bill
PS: Spell checker is your friend!
I'd hate to go against the grain on this one...but, oh what the heck!
My 88 e30. Never had a dose of this stuff, yet the internals of the head were as clean at 18 years of age and 150k miles as an engine that's just been built. The first owner ran GTX for the first part of the cars life, then the 2nd owner ran only M1 until 03 whe I acquired the car.
Needless to say, I was very shocked to pull off the valve cover and find things SO CLEAN! Mind you, the PO used the car for a fair amount of highway driving, and used only dealer or Wix filters with the M1. I'm not sure of his OCI's, but it was probably no more than 8,000 kms per change.
this just something to consider as I personally don't feel the need to use something so strong that strips gunk off at an alarming rate as AutoRx.
To each his own I suppose
happy motoring!
My 88 e30. Never had a dose of this stuff, yet the internals of the head were as clean at 18 years of age and 150k miles as an engine that's just been built. The first owner ran GTX for the first part of the cars life, then the 2nd owner ran only M1 until 03 whe I acquired the car.
Needless to say, I was very shocked to pull off the valve cover and find things SO CLEAN! Mind you, the PO used the car for a fair amount of highway driving, and used only dealer or Wix filters with the M1. I'm not sure of his OCI's, but it was probably no more than 8,000 kms per change.
this just something to consider as I personally don't feel the need to use something so strong that strips gunk off at an alarming rate as AutoRx.
To each his own I suppose
happy motoring!
If there is buildup, something is not working right, or the buildup is milky condensation stuff that isn't much of a problem. Is the PCV system working right?
Auto-Rx is neither strong nor strips gunk at an alarming rate. It is gentle, slow, and thorough. I've used it with success and will use Auto-Rx again in my family fleet engines, transmissions, and power steering.
Auto-Rx reduced the oil consumption in my Volvo 2.3 turbo by 75%, as well as making the engine smoother and peppier--the turbo boost gauge needle climbs faster.
Auto-Rx reduced the oil consumption in my Volvo 2.3 turbo by 75%, as well as making the engine smoother and peppier--the turbo boost gauge needle climbs faster.
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To get back on topic, I think running a synthetic for a few OCIs may do exactly what you want. M1 and PP both have been reported to work. PP took the varnish off my engine after a few OCIs, but I can't speak personally to it's sludge fighting abilities.
Good call on keeping dino out of a turbo. Definately would not go back to that again.
Good call on keeping dino out of a turbo. Definately would not go back to that again.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
To get back on topic, I think running a synthetic for a few OCIs may do exactly what you want. M1 and PP both have been reported to work. PP took the varnish off my engine after a few OCIs, but I can't speak personally to it's sludge fighting abilities.
Good call on keeping dino out of a turbo. Definately would not go back to that again.
Yes, A synthetic oil will "clear" out more "buildup" then a dino oil. However, Synthetic oils will not clean a motor "squeeky" clean.
Pennzoil Platnium with it robust additive pack, would do very good in this Volvo.
Redline with its additives and Ester base oil would do even more.
Again though: no oil will clean a motor to a point of sludge or varnish free.
To get back on topic, I think running a synthetic for a few OCIs may do exactly what you want. M1 and PP both have been reported to work. PP took the varnish off my engine after a few OCIs, but I can't speak personally to it's sludge fighting abilities.
Good call on keeping dino out of a turbo. Definately would not go back to that again.
Yes, A synthetic oil will "clear" out more "buildup" then a dino oil. However, Synthetic oils will not clean a motor "squeeky" clean.
Pennzoil Platnium with it robust additive pack, would do very good in this Volvo.
Redline with its additives and Ester base oil would do even more.
Again though: no oil will clean a motor to a point of sludge or varnish free.
Originally Posted By: java
I have 50K miles. Always ran dealor oil at 3K OCI (castrol 5w30). Showing mild buidlup on diptick and oil cap. Just swithced to Mobile 1 and hoping this will clean things up if i stick with 3K OCI. Any thoughts?
It all depends on your definition of "buildup". It's common for the turbo white blocks to develop some light varnish staining. That's no problem. Bona fide sludge is a problem. Sludging on conventional oils by your mileage is not uncommon. The warranty interval is 7,500. Most dealers pump conventional. Not the best combination with the turbos. But the 3k change interval is unusual. At 3k intervals, the engine should still be in decent shape even using conventionals. Lots of short trips make it a closer call, though.
No motor oil will thoroughly remove existing deposit buildups if they are significant. Use ARX and a premium conventional oil to clean out the crankcase. ARX is as gentle and effective as it gets. ARX cycles are short, so a conventional will be fine and not add to the mess.
After the ARX, use the full synthetic of your choice at 5k intervals and it should stay clean and run forever.
I have 50K miles. Always ran dealor oil at 3K OCI (castrol 5w30). Showing mild buidlup on diptick and oil cap. Just swithced to Mobile 1 and hoping this will clean things up if i stick with 3K OCI. Any thoughts?
It all depends on your definition of "buildup". It's common for the turbo white blocks to develop some light varnish staining. That's no problem. Bona fide sludge is a problem. Sludging on conventional oils by your mileage is not uncommon. The warranty interval is 7,500. Most dealers pump conventional. Not the best combination with the turbos. But the 3k change interval is unusual. At 3k intervals, the engine should still be in decent shape even using conventionals. Lots of short trips make it a closer call, though.
No motor oil will thoroughly remove existing deposit buildups if they are significant. Use ARX and a premium conventional oil to clean out the crankcase. ARX is as gentle and effective as it gets. ARX cycles are short, so a conventional will be fine and not add to the mess.
After the ARX, use the full synthetic of your choice at 5k intervals and it should stay clean and run forever.
Do the job properly Auto-Rx it.
People stock up on oil, i stocked up on Auto-Rx...great product.
Originally Posted By: Stanley Rockafeller
this just something to consider as I personally don't feel the need to use something so strong that strips gunk off at an alarming rate as AutoRx.
To each his own I suppose
happy motoring!
You don't know anything about auto rx to make that sort of statement. It's obvious you are uneducated about it.
After that many posts you would think....
this just something to consider as I personally don't feel the need to use something so strong that strips gunk off at an alarming rate as AutoRx.
To each his own I suppose
happy motoring!
You don't know anything about auto rx to make that sort of statement. It's obvious you are uneducated about it.
After that many posts you would think....
RX works slowly. You need to do some reading before making idiotic statements like that.
HDEOs alone aren't going to clean up substantial deposits, not in a turbo engine. A couple thousand PPM of calcium just isn't going to do it, even at wastefully short changes.
I really like RTS too, but it's not a miracle worker. It would definitely be on my short list for what to use after an ARX treatment, however.
I really like RTS too, but it's not a miracle worker. It would definitely be on my short list for what to use after an ARX treatment, however.
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