Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum???
- Thread starter jsjonz01
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What if Quaker State Synthetic is on sale for less than the PP?
Two different oils and I prefer the Platinum formulation.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
GM, to get the best comparison, do two oil changes on the Platinum and do the UOA on the second change. Two completely different chemistry's. This will give you a more accurate reading.
You are correct, I hadn't thought of that. In that case, I will not be ready to post my results until around June based on my driving miles/month.
GM, to get the best comparison, do two oil changes on the Platinum and do the UOA on the second change. Two completely different chemistry's. This will give you a more accurate reading.
You are correct, I hadn't thought of that. In that case, I will not be ready to post my results until around June based on my driving miles/month.
Originally Posted By: jsjonz01
I want to start using either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum synthetics. Would experienced users please give me the pros and cons with each and which is the more preferred? I will be using one of these in a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3L and a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L. I am planning on 6000 mile oil changes. Thanks!
PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used. If you think just because it says synthetic on the bottle that it will offer better protection then you will need to get a UOA done and get analysis done from Terry's Dyson Labs. In short, if it is protecting to the level you think it will buying synthetic where you want to do UOAs so you can get it stamped in-writing, then go with one(toss-up) or try both , PP and M1 to see if they are worth it but aside from that, a big waste of money in my book if you're going on marketing alone. Btw, I drive a 2006 V6 AT high heat application and the blends I use from CP give me better mileage, rev lower and protect just as adequate as these. My advice is neither, unless your application demands it, go with synthetic blends or semi-synthetics!
I want to start using either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum synthetics. Would experienced users please give me the pros and cons with each and which is the more preferred? I will be using one of these in a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3L and a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L. I am planning on 6000 mile oil changes. Thanks!
PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used. If you think just because it says synthetic on the bottle that it will offer better protection then you will need to get a UOA done and get analysis done from Terry's Dyson Labs. In short, if it is protecting to the level you think it will buying synthetic where you want to do UOAs so you can get it stamped in-writing, then go with one(toss-up) or try both , PP and M1 to see if they are worth it but aside from that, a big waste of money in my book if you're going on marketing alone. Btw, I drive a 2006 V6 AT high heat application and the blends I use from CP give me better mileage, rev lower and protect just as adequate as these. My advice is neither, unless your application demands it, go with synthetic blends or semi-synthetics!
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Does anyone really think that if Porsche & other hi end manufactures use Mobil 1 as THEIR factory fill that they don't back exxonmobil? A lot of oils meet the minimum warranty standards but, some oils must exceed those standards to be used as a factory fill. I think that bio oils are probably better than PP or M1 but, I can buy PP or M1 for ~ $4/quart in a 5q jug at WM.
{quote]PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used. If you think just because it says synthetic on the bottle that it will offer better protection then you will need to get a UOA done and get analysis done from Terry's Dyson Labs. In short, if it is protecting to the level you think it will buying synthetic where you want to do UOAs so you can get it stamped in-writing, then go with one(toss-up) or try both , PP and M1 to see if they are worth it but aside from that, a big waste of money in my book if you're going on marketing alone. Btw, I drive a 2006 V6 AT high heat application and the blends I use from CP give me better mileage, rev lower and protect just as adequate as these. My advice is neither, unless your application demands it, go with synthetic blends or semi-synthetics![/quote]
While I agree that the only real way to know how an oil is working for you is by doing a UOA. However, if you can even tell that an engine is revving higher with a certain oil, than you must have a highly refined "butt dyno". Based on what you said, it seems that the engine revved higher with the syn lubes so it would only make sense that the oil was slippery enough to make your engine rev easier? The regular oil slowed your engine down? And I can't see synlubes costing you mileage either unless you are not comparing apples to apples - you know maybe a heavier syn vs a light dino oil or maybe different times of the year, different driving circumstances, etc.
Fact is, yes any good dino oil will serve you fine. But it is also true that any good, true Syn lube will do everything better. Mobil 5000 does fine, but Mobil 1 beats it for cold temp and high temp uses. Same for Pennzoil dino vs their Platinum.
Oh yes, I am a believer in synthetic oil in case you can't tell
While I agree that the only real way to know how an oil is working for you is by doing a UOA. However, if you can even tell that an engine is revving higher with a certain oil, than you must have a highly refined "butt dyno". Based on what you said, it seems that the engine revved higher with the syn lubes so it would only make sense that the oil was slippery enough to make your engine rev easier? The regular oil slowed your engine down? And I can't see synlubes costing you mileage either unless you are not comparing apples to apples - you know maybe a heavier syn vs a light dino oil or maybe different times of the year, different driving circumstances, etc.
Fact is, yes any good dino oil will serve you fine. But it is also true that any good, true Syn lube will do everything better. Mobil 5000 does fine, but Mobil 1 beats it for cold temp and high temp uses. Same for Pennzoil dino vs their Platinum.
Oh yes, I am a believer in synthetic oil in case you can't tell
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Mobil 1 specialty oils are great, but in a plain otc 5w-20/30 I'd take PP.
Heck, PP 5w-30 is thinner at +0f than Mobil 1 *0w*-30.
Heck, PP 5w-30 is thinner at +0f than Mobil 1 *0w*-30.
PP or M1???
YUP it's good! Pick one and be happy!
Like Nascar? What does your favorite driver use (at least according to the sticker) that is about as much of a good reason for one versus the other as any.
F1?
Heck bottle color (colour for the Brits!
)??
YUP it's good! Pick one and be happy!
Like Nascar? What does your favorite driver use (at least according to the sticker) that is about as much of a good reason for one versus the other as any.
F1?
Heck bottle color (colour for the Brits!
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I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns. Basically, the syns are, on average, thicker so what you were referring to may be true but then I ask if thinner oils performs better in terms of performance (revving) and gas mileage, who cares about some marginally better protection(UOA confirmed, ofcourse) or maybe nothing more at all that you might get with synthetics if they hurt you everywhere else and as you said, is thicker and therefore apples and oranges to a thinner oil with the same grade? In another words, what if the car goes 250k-300k with either oil, what is the benefit of full syn in this case?
I just got 26.4 MPG, specifically 409.5 miles using (filling back) 15.5 gallons. I would get somewhere around 320-330 miles and around 20 miles per gallon using full syns.
I just got 26.4 MPG, specifically 409.5 miles using (filling back) 15.5 gallons. I would get somewhere around 320-330 miles and around 20 miles per gallon using full syns.
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Never tried M1, but have had good luck with BOGO PP in last two cars. At that price it was an easy decision 
.
Originally Posted By: 06vtecv6
{quote]PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used (snipped)...
This statement confuses me. I have seen other posts of yours where you compare oil used and the rpms at a given speed. It is my understanding that the RPM of the engine at a specific speed and in a specific gear is a mechanical connection and is determined by the gearing of the transmission and the differntial/s. One of my previous vehicles even lost a cylinder and still went the same speed on the highway at the same RPM. I just can't wrap my brain around the idea that the lubricant in the engine can change this mechanical relationship between the engine and the transmission. Somebody enlighten me.
.Originally Posted By: 06vtecv6
{quote]PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used (snipped)...
This statement confuses me. I have seen other posts of yours where you compare oil used and the rpms at a given speed. It is my understanding that the RPM of the engine at a specific speed and in a specific gear is a mechanical connection and is determined by the gearing of the transmission and the differntial/s. One of my previous vehicles even lost a cylinder and still went the same speed on the highway at the same RPM. I just can't wrap my brain around the idea that the lubricant in the engine can change this mechanical relationship between the engine and the transmission. Somebody enlighten me.
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.
I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.
I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.
Originally Posted By: Artemedes
Never tried M1, but have had good luck with BOGO PP in last two cars. At that price it was an easy decision.
Originally Posted By: 06vtecv6
{quote]PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used (snipped)...
This statement confuses me. I have seen other posts of yours where you compare oil used and the rpms at a given speed. It is my understanding that the RPM of the engine at a specific speed and in a specific gear is a mechanical connection and is determined by the gearing of the transmission and the differntial/s. One of my previous vehicles even lost a cylinder and still went the same speed on the highway at the same RPM. I just can't wrap my brain around the idea that the lubricant in the engine can change this mechanical relationship between the engine and the transmission. Somebody enlighten me.
exactly. it's not just your understanding, but just common sense. the only way to alter the rpm/mph relationship in any given gear is to slip the clutch or torque converter. to think otherwise is being delusional. a 'lighter' or 'slicker' oil will allow 'quicker' revving, but will still rev the same at a particular speed as it did before.
Never tried M1, but have had good luck with BOGO PP in last two cars. At that price it was an easy decision
.Originally Posted By: 06vtecv6
{quote]PP and M1 both gave me greater usage and less gas mileage, revved higher during freeway driving then some of the synthetic blends I have used (snipped)...
This statement confuses me. I have seen other posts of yours where you compare oil used and the rpms at a given speed. It is my understanding that the RPM of the engine at a specific speed and in a specific gear is a mechanical connection and is determined by the gearing of the transmission and the differntial/s. One of my previous vehicles even lost a cylinder and still went the same speed on the highway at the same RPM. I just can't wrap my brain around the idea that the lubricant in the engine can change this mechanical relationship between the engine and the transmission. Somebody enlighten me.
exactly. it's not just your understanding, but just common sense. the only way to alter the rpm/mph relationship in any given gear is to slip the clutch or torque converter. to think otherwise is being delusional. a 'lighter' or 'slicker' oil will allow 'quicker' revving, but will still rev the same at a particular speed as it did before.
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns. Basically, the syns are, on average, thicker so what you were referring to may be true but then I ask if thinner oils performs better in terms of performance (revving) and gas mileage, who cares about some marginally better protection(UOA confirmed, ofcourse) or maybe nothing more at all that you might get with synthetics if they hurt you everywhere else and as you said, is thicker and therefore apples and oranges to a thinner oil with the same grade? In another words, what if the car goes 250k-300k with either oil, what is the benefit of full syn in this case?
I just got 26.4 MPG, specifically 409.5 miles using (filling back) 15.5 gallons. I would get somewhere around 320-330 miles and around 20 miles per gallon using full syns.
Everything you say just doesn't compute. Sorry. I do not see how a Synlube can cost you 6.4MPG and like the other said - revs have nothing to do with the oil. You will go a certain RPM in a certain gear at a certain MPH the same with any oil. It's the gear ratios not the oil.
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns. Basically, the syns are, on average, thicker so what you were referring to may be true but then I ask if thinner oils performs better in terms of performance (revving) and gas mileage, who cares about some marginally better protection(UOA confirmed, ofcourse) or maybe nothing more at all that you might get with synthetics if they hurt you everywhere else and as you said, is thicker and therefore apples and oranges to a thinner oil with the same grade? In another words, what if the car goes 250k-300k with either oil, what is the benefit of full syn in this case?
I just got 26.4 MPG, specifically 409.5 miles using (filling back) 15.5 gallons. I would get somewhere around 320-330 miles and around 20 miles per gallon using full syns.
Everything you say just doesn't compute. Sorry. I do not see how a Synlube can cost you 6.4MPG and like the other said - revs have nothing to do with the oil. You will go a certain RPM in a certain gear at a certain MPH the same with any oil. It's the gear ratios not the oil.
I just installed PP in the wife's 2007 Nissan Quest. Previously it had the factory fill dino - changed at 3,600 miles - and then Valvoline 5W-30 dino until 8,669 miles when I put in the PP. I went with PP over Amsoil and Mobil 1 for a few reasons. The first is availability. PP is available at Wal-Mart in a 5 quart jug or by the quart....Amsoil isn't. Mobil 1 is also at Wally World. The second reason was / is cost. PP is less expensive then both Amsoil and Mobil 1. Third is performance....from what I have read on this forum, PP performs every bit as good....maybe better...as Amsoil and Mobil 1. I will be running a 5K OCI (to keep with the recommended Nissan interval) on the van so I figure I cannot make a bad choice with it. I currently run Amsoil in my 2001 Tahoe and will be changing to PP at the next oil change. I will probably keep my 10,000 OCI on the Tahoe with PP. I run NAPA Gold filters on both vehicles as well as a FilterMag on both.
Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta
Third is performance....from what I have read on this forum, PP performs every bit as good....maybe better...as Amsoil and Mobil 1.
Well, for your application...yes. 5K OCI's are fine for even the cheapest dino nowadays. For long drains, Amsoil is the top choice IMO.
Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta
so I figure I cannot make a bad choice with it.
I agree, you can't make a bad choice with it or most any SL or SM oil for 5K runs.
Third is performance....from what I have read on this forum, PP performs every bit as good....maybe better...as Amsoil and Mobil 1.
Well, for your application...yes. 5K OCI's are fine for even the cheapest dino nowadays. For long drains, Amsoil is the top choice IMO.
Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta
so I figure I cannot make a bad choice with it.
I agree, you can't make a bad choice with it or most any SL or SM oil for 5K runs.
Quote:
Everything you say just doesn't compute. Sorry. I do not see how a Synlube can cost you 6.4MPG and like the other said - revs have nothing to do with the oil. You will go a certain RPM in a certain gear at a certain MPH the same with any oil. It's the gear ratios not the oil.
It is the same as people who say running Syn makes their engine run cooler (one said the under hood temps are lower.when asked how he came up with that statement, no answer), cause their A/C to work better, get xx better MPG, etc.
If your using the same weight oil, the type is not going to matter as much and your right foot. I've run full PAO syn, group 3 syn, blends, conventional and all get within 1 mpg of each other.
So in other words, within any data error.
But I love the some who post that this oil caused their engine to rev less @ xx mph...
Yeah..
Sure..
Take care, bill
Everything you say just doesn't compute. Sorry. I do not see how a Synlube can cost you 6.4MPG and like the other said - revs have nothing to do with the oil. You will go a certain RPM in a certain gear at a certain MPH the same with any oil. It's the gear ratios not the oil.
It is the same as people who say running Syn makes their engine run cooler (one said the under hood temps are lower.when asked how he came up with that statement, no answer), cause their A/C to work better, get xx better MPG, etc.
If your using the same weight oil, the type is not going to matter as much and your right foot. I've run full PAO syn, group 3 syn, blends, conventional and all get within 1 mpg of each other.
So in other words, within any data error.
But I love the some who post that this oil caused their engine to rev less @ xx mph...
Yeah..
Take care, bill
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.
I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.
Well, if you won't completely knock his theory, I will. That theory is 100% wrong. The rpm of a cruising engine with an engaged torque-converter will be EXACTLY the same at a given speed, no matter if you had no oil in the sump or 140 weight gear oil. IF there was a difference in rpm at a given speed in this car, it was because in one case the torque coverter was "engaged", and in the other case it wasn't engaged. This has NOTHING to do with engine oil viscosity. Sheesh!
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.
I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.
Well, if you won't completely knock his theory, I will. That theory is 100% wrong. The rpm of a cruising engine with an engaged torque-converter will be EXACTLY the same at a given speed, no matter if you had no oil in the sump or 140 weight gear oil. IF there was a difference in rpm at a given speed in this car, it was because in one case the torque coverter was "engaged", and in the other case it wasn't engaged. This has NOTHING to do with engine oil viscosity. Sheesh!
Originally Posted By: Titan
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.
I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.
Well, if you won't completely knock his theory, I will. That theory is 100% wrong. The rpm of a cruising engine with an engaged torque-converter will be EXACTLY the same at a given speed, no matter if you had no oil in the sump or 140 weight gear oil. IF there was a difference in rpm at a given speed in this car, it was because in one case the torque coverter was "engaged", and in the other case it wasn't engaged. This has NOTHING to do with engine oil viscosity. Sheesh!
Well, I didn't want to be categorical, since I have no experience with automatic transmissions. I know with a manual, the change in engine RPM at a given speed indicates slipping clutch.
Automatics... who cares, they are for girls anyway.
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.
I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.
Well, if you won't completely knock his theory, I will. That theory is 100% wrong. The rpm of a cruising engine with an engaged torque-converter will be EXACTLY the same at a given speed, no matter if you had no oil in the sump or 140 weight gear oil. IF there was a difference in rpm at a given speed in this car, it was because in one case the torque coverter was "engaged", and in the other case it wasn't engaged. This has NOTHING to do with engine oil viscosity. Sheesh!
Well, I didn't want to be categorical, since I have no experience with automatic transmissions. I know with a manual, the change in engine RPM at a given speed indicates slipping clutch.
Automatics... who cares, they are for girls anyway.
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