Tire Shop Mechanics - TPMS - Strap vs. Valve

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Is there a preferred TPMS sensor these days - strap vs. the valve type. My previous 2 sets were using the band strap type. I've had one occasion where I band broke off in the wheel and another where a sensor was broken when either dismounting or mounting a tire.

With the valve type, it looks like the + side is that you can *drop* the valve when dismounting the tire by removing the external nut component of the valve which would allow for a easier method of dismounting a wheel.

I'm going to assume mounting is just as difficult - as in sometimes the case with a low profile tile/firm sidewalls.

Love to hear some feedback on the pros/cons of each sensor type as I plan to add sensors to my new wheels.

The ONLY + side I can see to the strap is working with wheels tha have the 90 degree bend valve to them, which makes it impossible to use the valve type tpms.
 
I have the LTPW option on my 1994 Corvette. It was a somewhat rare option and I also got the optional run flat tires that was all new for 1994. The tire pressure sensors were the strap on type and totally a pain when new tire time came. I had to stand there with the tire mounter so they would not bust the sensor -even though each tire had a sticker warning them to where to break the bead. These sensors are no longer available, so I really get nervous at tire change time! My other vehicled have the valve stem type and are much more durable in my opinion and much better odds of not being broken. So I prefer the valve stem type as do the auto makers. GM used to have a high quality metal valve stem attached to the sensors, but recent cost cutting has now made these valve stems rubber - which I think stinks. You go from a robust steel stem to a rubber one that will degrade and break faster costing you money to replace the entire unit.
 
Don't really see any clear cut advantage to either, as long as owned by an enthusiast who will keep Techs on thier toes. At the present time, a stem mount is more likely to be noticed and extra care taken during dismount/mount procedure. "Dropping" to dismount is'nt really necessary if Tech is careful. It's pushed by hardware mfgrs. to sell replacement stem seals, caps, cores, etc. that come as a "kit" for installation every time tire is removed.


"You go from a robust steel stem to a rubber one that will degrade and break faster costing you money to replace the entire unit. " GMBoy.

Not quite accurate. New rubber stem can be separated from sensor itself for stem only replacement at tire replacement intervals.

Best,

bob
 
It all depends. At my dealership we have some weird ones. We got TPMS mounted on rubber valve and others with Steel Valve bodies. The steel bodied ones do not have replaceable seals. Just undo and drop in the tire and then remount with the new tire on. The rubber ones are OK just like a regular valve stem for the most part and cheap to replace just order a set ahead of time. (A bit of a pain though)

The other is the Band type. We have replaced far more TPMS sensors that the tire buster shops have CRUSHED than we have ever hurt ourselves. Just learn to break tires down with the valves up or down so you don't crush the sensors if equipped and no problems at all. Then you just have to know how to dismount & mount with sensors. If not they will be buying sensors and paying to retrain. No problem. They will learn.

Should not be a big deal either way.
 
"The steel bodied ones do not have replaceable seals. Just undo and drop in the tire and then remount with the new tire on. The rubber ones are OK just like a regular valve stem for the most part and cheap to replace just order a set ahead of time. (A bit of a pain though)"

First off, NONE of them are steel body! Aluminum! Care must be taken to use only NICKEL plated cores or electrolis(sp) will weld brass core to stem, then it's all junk. "Your" dealership must have left out part of your training! Cap, core, and rubber stem seal are to be replaced any time stem is "dropped". Rubber stems are "un-droppable" and care must be taken to mount-dismount without damage. Actual rubber stem is scheduled to be replaced at each tire replacement period, just as old rubber stems have allways been replaced by competent tire service facilities.

So far I've gathered this information from the TPMS service tool kit I purchased a couple weeks ago at a cost of $510. out of MY pocket. Sure "your" dealership has spent even more, but how many of your techs have bothered to fully study material?

Bob
 
Already gone - your are correct about being able to replace just the rubber stem/valve on the 2nd design GM TP sensor. I looked that up on the Techlink site. BUT, I still prefer the steel ones.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Already gone - your are correct about being able to replace just the rubber stem/valve on the 2nd design GM TP sensor. I looked that up on the Techlink site. BUT, I still prefer the steel ones.


I also prefer the METAL stems,,would shure like for you to show me a STEEL one though. They're all ALUMINUM .

Bob
 
Ok - you made your point 2X on that one. Aluminum it is
smile.gif
 
Does the standard *valve* type work well in low profile wheels / where the valve hole is in the center of the body

Example 10.5 x 20"
Tire - 315/35/20"

Wheel would be typical *custom* 3 piece with the valve hole in the center of the barrel.
 
We are waiting on a new roller arm for our machine (we have the shovel type). Shop just doesn't want to take the chance of damaging the valves or the stiff sidewall.
 
Does anybody know if it's a good idea to buy used TPMS sensors off ebay? How reliable are these things? Are they likely to work so long as they are not broken? The sensors I'm looking at came off an 06 Passat. A set of 4 costs $280 at the dealer and I can get a set for about $60 off of Ebay.
 
VeeDub, one problem is that they have a battery in them that has a finite life.

If the battery isn't replaceable, you should find out how old they are and what the battery life expectancy is.

IIRC, it roughly 10 years on late model Corvettes. As a wild guess, they are probably similar battery life.
 
I ordered some valve types for my winter wheels.
Left the summer wheels alone for now.

Spoke in great length and my rep told me the valve sensor is a much smaller footprint than the strap ones and also are easier to install with 30 o 40 / profile tire sizes.

With that said, he also said that straps allow it to be *more universal* but I guess depending on the wheel, as long as the area allows me to put a valve type on sensor, I am sticking with those for now as all my tires are LP
 
I have had a chance to play with both the valve and strap sensors on a couple sets of wheels I have that need tires mounted - 3 different style of wheels. I can see how the valve is slighter smaller in height and it much more closer to the backside of the front of the flange. Sits nice and snug.

With the strap sensor, the recommended mounting location is in the front drop center , inline with where the valve hole is. While it is slightly mm taller than the valve type, and further off from the backside of the front lip flange......

It looks like any competent tire wrench monkey should have no issues with either if they know what they are doing. In my scenarios, they are usually working with a low profile stiff sidewall tire...
 
A word of caution:

If you have a TPMS already installed on your vehicle, you have to get sensors compatible with that system. I don't think you have an option of which way to go.
 
That TPS sensors are from the same manufactuer.
Just debating between the 2.

I have had 2 sensors break on me. One I assume my installer damaged when he was dismouting.

The second was when one of the steel straps broke off inside my wheel and the sensor was damaged as well. I supposed heat could expand thee strap, etc but I'm going to err on the side of caution and say that the strap was possibly installed wrong....

That is why I'm trying to get a better understanding of the 2 types of sensors so moving forward, I know the pros & cons of the 2 when deciding which type goes on the wheel.
 
I suppose I'll be condemned for the question, but why would anyone want them? They are an unnecessary expense and a nuisance. I note that chefwong has had two break. Most tire shop gorillas a cannot mount wheels without warping rotors since they use air wrenches instead of torque wrenches for tightening. They aren't likely able to install TPMS components with any great degree of care.

A pressure gauge still works and I use one at a significant temp change and/or weekly. If there is a catastrophic tire failure, I personally do not need a message from my display to learn of it.

For 08 models, I understand they are standard equipment. Our 07 VWs have the valve stem type, currently "missing" due to winter wheel swaps. When I get Vag-com in the near future, I'll likely disable them permanently. Course I am an old geezer and a grouch.

I am not impressed with nitrogen tire fills either. Or run-flats. Likely the bureaucrats will soon have us receiving citations and fines if we don't "wear" our TPMS.

I understand that cars sold in Europe generally use the band type.

Thus, chefwong would need to use TPMS components compatible with the car's receiver. Sounds like you are using an non-OEM product? You know how the band type are working for you.

The valve stem type require a wheel than can accommodate the sensor/transmitter and a mounted tire, simultaneously.
 
NYC roads are terrible and when running LP tire setups, when air goes out, whether it be from a nail or bent rim, it goes out real quick. The TPMS is a great way to let me know if I have an issue before I mess up a $1800 rim. I am running a Smartire receiver/TPMS setup FWIW.
 
I have a TPMS question for the techs. I have a 07 Silverado 1500 NBS 2WD with the 20" wheels and TPMS. I just tried to go through the relearn procedure after rotating the tires. It is a simple enough procedure but I could not get it to work. I could get one or two positions to honk but then nothing,and it would time out and shut off. After trying a couple of different ways I checked the forums at GM Trucks and found that about 75% of the guys over there are having problems getting the system to do the relearn. I had to take it to the dealer to have it done. They told me they have a lot of problems with the system and had to hook it up to the diagnostic computer and use a wand to reset. Any tips on how to make the relearn procedure work so I don`t have to go back every time I rotate the tires?
 
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