Heavy Carbon Removal
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Mopar combustion chamber cleaner works really well.
The GM equivalent is called CLEENS.
They also use it as a pressurised injector cleaner mixed with gas.
Years ago we did our own *shop floor* comparison on quite a few supposed injector cleaners.
The only thing that actually dissolved carbon in a dish was the CLEENS and Mopar CCC. Didn't test SeaFoam.
The GM equivalent is called CLEENS.
They also use it as a pressurised injector cleaner mixed with gas.
Years ago we did our own *shop floor* comparison on quite a few supposed injector cleaners.
The only thing that actually dissolved carbon in a dish was the CLEENS and Mopar CCC. Didn't test SeaFoam.
i use bg's 109 does a great job and also quick clean.
years ago diesel worked great as a carbon removed. i remember soaking dirty cylinder heads and oil pans in diesel for 30 minutes., afterwards a hit with a garden hose would blast off any carbon chunks and leave the metal shiny and clean. no manual scrubbing was required, even for the worst carbon and sludge.
now days diesel is castrated and its lost nearly all of its carbon removal qualities. this method doesnt work anymore.
now days diesel is castrated and its lost nearly all of its carbon removal qualities. this method doesnt work anymore.
Use an emtpy spray bottle, and pour 1/2 quart of distilled water into it...spray it into the throttle body, while slightly accelerating the car, via the throttle calbe linkage... spraying is to endsure you dont create hydrolock.
But first, try redline S1, seafoam, or like the others say, mopar combustion chamber cleaner, i se it every 2 years or 30,000 miles myslef, THEN do the water spary treatment. Be prepaired, to get an engine code, cyclinder 3 misfire, thats normal nothing to worry about. Drive the car for about 30 minutes, to burn off any leftover stuff. Change oil and filter, put all pieces of throttle back(air ducts) and your good to go
But first, try redline S1, seafoam, or like the others say, mopar combustion chamber cleaner, i se it every 2 years or 30,000 miles myslef, THEN do the water spary treatment. Be prepaired, to get an engine code, cyclinder 3 misfire, thats normal nothing to worry about. Drive the car for about 30 minutes, to burn off any leftover stuff. Change oil and filter, put all pieces of throttle back(air ducts) and your good to go
Originally Posted By: JAYCEE
I've done the seafoam method and I like it. I'm a little nervouse about sucking water into the engine.
What about a 50/50 mix of seafoam and water. Any reason not to try that?
Because they probably won’t mix together, and the water will be on bottom and the seafoam on top, so you will basically get what I use most of the time. Start it on water, then let it suck down the in my case SI-1 and sit for a while.
I've done the seafoam method and I like it. I'm a little nervouse about sucking water into the engine.
What about a 50/50 mix of seafoam and water. Any reason not to try that?
Because they probably won’t mix together, and the water will be on bottom and the seafoam on top, so you will basically get what I use most of the time. Start it on water, then let it suck down the in my case SI-1 and sit for a while.
The water method or "Coke bottle" method, it was where, in the days of carbs, the mechanic would fill a bottle of Coke with water and slowly dump it into the carb for carbon removal.
I did a internet joke about "Coke in the carb" where I posted (after someone posted about water in a Coke bottle for carbon removal)"I poured a bottle of Coke in the carb and the Land Cruiser doesn't run any more!!!!"
Anyhow, you would think after all the years that there would be a better way to remove carbon than plane old distilled water.
My Land Cruiser FZJ80 has just turned 300,000 mi on it.
I know the three rear cylinders are full of carbon from a bad 02 sensor.
With the old motor, what method would be the safest?
I have use the Seafoam method for years but that was with just normal carbon removal not heavy carbon build up removal.
I did a internet joke about "Coke in the carb" where I posted (after someone posted about water in a Coke bottle for carbon removal)"I poured a bottle of Coke in the carb and the Land Cruiser doesn't run any more!!!!"
Anyhow, you would think after all the years that there would be a better way to remove carbon than plane old distilled water.
My Land Cruiser FZJ80 has just turned 300,000 mi on it.
I know the three rear cylinders are full of carbon from a bad 02 sensor.
With the old motor, what method would be the safest?
I have use the Seafoam method for years but that was with just normal carbon removal not heavy carbon build up removal.
Originally Posted By: JAYCEE
I've done the seafoam method and I like it. I'm a little nervouse about sucking water into the engine.
I don't blame you. I was a bit nervous about the distilled water method too when I tried it. The thought of water going into an engine is so foreign in some ways. But so many people have done it and raved about it that I figured it must work. About a month ago, I did two 1/2 quart injections of distilled straight into a vacuum port on the downstream side of the throttle plate. Two treatments on two consecutive days. And now - for the first time in a year - I have absolutely NO pinging. None, under any operating conditions.
I've done the seafoam method and I like it. I'm a little nervouse about sucking water into the engine.
I don't blame you. I was a bit nervous about the distilled water method too when I tried it. The thought of water going into an engine is so foreign in some ways. But so many people have done it and raved about it that I figured it must work. About a month ago, I did two 1/2 quart injections of distilled straight into a vacuum port on the downstream side of the throttle plate. Two treatments on two consecutive days. And now - for the first time in a year - I have absolutely NO pinging. None, under any operating conditions.
The only problem with water is that it cleans everything, even the oil off the cylinder walls.
Back in those days I developed a method that overcame the washout of the cylinder walls problem. I used a 50/50 mix of hot water and ATF, shaken well. About a pint of the mixture was usually enough.
Yes, it worked well. I got in the habit of doing this prior to pulling the heads for a valve grind. It made the clean-up part of the job much easier. The carbon that wasn't removed was softened.
Yes, it worked well. I got in the habit of doing this prior to pulling the heads for a valve grind. It made the clean-up part of the job much easier. The carbon that wasn't removed was softened.
Water is not harmful as long as you keep the engine revved and you do not pour in too much water at a time. I suggest 1-2 ounces of water at a time.
Someone on here, I think it was unDummy, recommended teeing off a vacuum line and routing a hose into the cab and while driving down the interstate, put the hose into a bottle of water while you were revving the engine. For that I would assume you are not in Overdrive, just so the RPMs will be high enough.
I used 6 ounces of water and 2 ounces of FP60 on my car and saw puffs of black smoke come out the back when it sucked it in. No harm came to my engine, and it still runs great.
Someone on here, I think it was unDummy, recommended teeing off a vacuum line and routing a hose into the cab and while driving down the interstate, put the hose into a bottle of water while you were revving the engine. For that I would assume you are not in Overdrive, just so the RPMs will be high enough.
I used 6 ounces of water and 2 ounces of FP60 on my car and saw puffs of black smoke come out the back when it sucked it in. No harm came to my engine, and it still runs great.
I once ran 20 ounces of distilled water through the brake booster line on my wife's '97 Expedition, in a period of about 10 minutes. No harm came to the Expedition. After the water treatment, the inside of the exhaust pipe was squeaky clean.
FWIW, the Expedition didn't run any better or worse after the water treatment.
FWIW, the Expedition didn't run any better or worse after the water treatment.
Originally Posted By: Big Jim
Back in those days I developed a method that overcame the washout of the cylinder walls problem. I used a 50/50 mix of hot water and ATF, shaken well. About a pint of the mixture was usually enough.
Yes, it worked well. I got in the habit of doing this prior to pulling the heads for a valve grind. It made the clean-up part of the job much easier. The carbon that wasn't removed was softened.
I was thinking of using some water soluble oil with an alcohol/water mix. But I can't find enough info on how water soluble oil reacts in a heat or in a combustion chamber.
Another way could be to mix a lot of upper cylinder lube into an almost empty gas tank, then run the water injection, then fill the tank up with regular gas.
Back in those days I developed a method that overcame the washout of the cylinder walls problem. I used a 50/50 mix of hot water and ATF, shaken well. About a pint of the mixture was usually enough.
Yes, it worked well. I got in the habit of doing this prior to pulling the heads for a valve grind. It made the clean-up part of the job much easier. The carbon that wasn't removed was softened.
I was thinking of using some water soluble oil with an alcohol/water mix. But I can't find enough info on how water soluble oil reacts in a heat or in a combustion chamber.
Another way could be to mix a lot of upper cylinder lube into an almost empty gas tank, then run the water injection, then fill the tank up with regular gas.
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Quote:
Someone on here, I think it was unDummy, recommended teeing off a vacuum line and routing a hose into the cab and while driving down the interstate, put the hose into a bottle of water while you were revving the engine. For that I would assume you are not in Overdrive, just so the RPMs will be high enough.
I've done this over the years. I've used the PCV hose ..extended and plugged until I got a clear bit of road way. You don't have to worry too much about drawing in too much liquid with vacuum. It's kinda self regulating. If you're doing it in the driveway, you just have to make sure that you have an empty container before you turn off the key ..or at least assure that it can't siphon into an open valve while you're waiting. This won't hurt your engine since it will just lock up via the starter. It's not like you'll bend a rod as you would if it happens @ with the engine running.
It produces a sizable cloud behind the vehicle. You can even switch agents (whatever you're deciding to purge with) as you drive. Start off with your cleaning agent of choice ...switch to water/alcohol (whatever) and back.
It helps to have a co-pilot when doing this type of procedure. You route it up through the hood opening near the cowl and through the window. It's easier then finding a way through the firewall.
Someone on here, I think it was unDummy, recommended teeing off a vacuum line and routing a hose into the cab and while driving down the interstate, put the hose into a bottle of water while you were revving the engine. For that I would assume you are not in Overdrive, just so the RPMs will be high enough.
I've done this over the years. I've used the PCV hose ..extended and plugged until I got a clear bit of road way. You don't have to worry too much about drawing in too much liquid with vacuum. It's kinda self regulating. If you're doing it in the driveway, you just have to make sure that you have an empty container before you turn off the key ..or at least assure that it can't siphon into an open valve while you're waiting. This won't hurt your engine since it will just lock up via the starter. It's not like you'll bend a rod as you would if it happens @ with the engine running.
It produces a sizable cloud behind the vehicle. You can even switch agents (whatever you're deciding to purge with) as you drive. Start off with your cleaning agent of choice ...switch to water/alcohol (whatever) and back.
It helps to have a co-pilot when doing this type of procedure. You route it up through the hood opening near the cowl and through the window. It's easier then finding a way through the firewall.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I've used the PCV hose ..extended and plugged until I got a clear bit of road way.
I've done this with the car it park. Always been afraid that driving and being in gear would be worse for the car. Found a4mm vac hose off right after the throttle body that sucks from the charcoal canister. Gonna try the road method when I get another 1500 miles on the oil, and its time to finish up the ARX rinse.
Be careful with agitating the ATF water too much. I got a pink semi-solid when I mixed the two. It might have been because there was some acetone left-over in the bottle
I've used the PCV hose ..extended and plugged until I got a clear bit of road way.
I've done this with the car it park. Always been afraid that driving and being in gear would be worse for the car. Found a4mm vac hose off right after the throttle body that sucks from the charcoal canister. Gonna try the road method when I get another 1500 miles on the oil, and its time to finish up the ARX rinse.
Be careful with agitating the ATF water too much. I got a pink semi-solid when I mixed the two. It might have been because there was some acetone left-over in the bottle
i did this 3 weeks ago with my newly purchased 92 isuzu beater truck with 177k miles on it. it had a loud "carbon knock" on cold starts that went away when it warmed up. this motor suffered from a low vacuum condition i attributed to running too rich and being all carboned up. the sooty fouled plugs confirmed this. i grew up in iowa around alot of old farmall and john deere gas powered tractors. since they are ancient designs, they get carboned up like cars used to 40 years ago. we always used the 50% rubbing alcohol you can buy at the store. using the alcohol lets you put it in under load and not kill the engine. you want a lot of heat in the combustion chambers to "steam" the carbon off. the only way to get that is to get it up to temp and drive it. the alcohol will also clean off any PCV gunk on the inside of the intake and the back of the valves better than water alone ever could.
i found a unused vacuum port at the base of the carb and cleaned it out using carb cleaner spray. i used about 8 feet of small vacuum line into the cab. i also used one of those universal vacuum splicer things that has the small hole in the end. this way i did not have to worry about getting too big an amount into the engine at once. i was able to stick it into the jar holding the alcohol for about 3-4 seconds before the engine started to bog down and misfire. once the fluid cleared the vacuum line, it ran like normal. i went through 5 12 ounce bottles in about a 20 mile drive. the first and most noticeable thing was that the "hiss" of the vacuum hose got gradually louder and it was sucking the alcohol/water mix up faster and faster as we went along. my passenger remarked on it several times. i took it as a good sign. i took it home and changed the oil and put in some ARX and called it a day.
the next morning it was about freezing outside and the engine started up with out the loud knock it had been making before on cold starts. it runs pretty smoothly now. life is good. $500 beater trucks rule.
i found a unused vacuum port at the base of the carb and cleaned it out using carb cleaner spray. i used about 8 feet of small vacuum line into the cab. i also used one of those universal vacuum splicer things that has the small hole in the end. this way i did not have to worry about getting too big an amount into the engine at once. i was able to stick it into the jar holding the alcohol for about 3-4 seconds before the engine started to bog down and misfire. once the fluid cleared the vacuum line, it ran like normal. i went through 5 12 ounce bottles in about a 20 mile drive. the first and most noticeable thing was that the "hiss" of the vacuum hose got gradually louder and it was sucking the alcohol/water mix up faster and faster as we went along. my passenger remarked on it several times. i took it as a good sign. i took it home and changed the oil and put in some ARX and called it a day.
the next morning it was about freezing outside and the engine started up with out the loud knock it had been making before on cold starts. it runs pretty smoothly now. life is good. $500 beater trucks rule.
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