I was going to bleed the brakes on my 05 dodge ram 2500 and went to bust the first bleeder screw open and it snapped off. Should I mess with it or just replace the calipers with reman ones? I'll be doing front brake pads soon with 60+k on the brake system. This is a known problem, probably should of broke them loose from when I picked the truck up and applied a little antiseize.
Broken brake bleeder screw?
- Thread starter Harley Anderson
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You can try drilling out the screw.
Otherwise, you'll have to buy a set of remanufactured calipers. About $150 for the front.
Otherwise, you'll have to buy a set of remanufactured calipers. About $150 for the front.
I knew this was a problem with most of these trucks and I hit all of them up with pb blaster several times. Its not the lack of tools at all, but more the time it will take versus the $150 for four new calipers which will be r&r. I spent most of last weekend changing ball joints. I will just replace them, thanks.
The calipers are about $75/EACH for the front for unloaded remanufactured ones. It is highly recommended that you replace them in pairs.
Rear calipers are substantially more expensive due to the parking brake mechanism.
Rear calipers are substantially more expensive due to the parking brake mechanism.
There are bleeder 'fix' kits at auto parts stores.
You drill yours out, and insert the new one.
They can work well, it's up to you.
You drill yours out, and insert the new one.
They can work well, it's up to you.
Why do you need to replace calipers in pairs?
The remanufactured caliper has been restored to an OE level of braking performance. The other caliper may not, and as a result, may cause a pull.
I should have highlighted replace. Couldn't it just be rebuilt? I guess that's more expensive though.
Well, a remanufactured unit carries a warranty, often a lifetime one.
If a bleeder isn't rusted bad, then here's how to remove it:
Find a small punch- smaller than the diameter of the threads, so that you don't risk damaging them. Put the punch up against the broken off bleeder, and wack it with a hammer. This will loosen it- and works particularly well for bleeders as they're 'bottomed'. Now use a small easy-out. Don't drive it in hard- you don't want to expand the bleeder. And don't break it off... if you do, then all hope is lost.
If that doesn't work, then you could try drilling it... but the odds of getting the thing out without collateral damage are greatly decreased.
And, yes- calipers should be replaced in pairs. The 'new' (or reman) one will move more freely, and probably grip a bit better. This may or may not cause a pull- in my experience, though, it'll make the brake with the new component get smoking hot, as it'll be doing most of the braking.
Find a small punch- smaller than the diameter of the threads, so that you don't risk damaging them. Put the punch up against the broken off bleeder, and wack it with a hammer. This will loosen it- and works particularly well for bleeders as they're 'bottomed'. Now use a small easy-out. Don't drive it in hard- you don't want to expand the bleeder. And don't break it off... if you do, then all hope is lost.
If that doesn't work, then you could try drilling it... but the odds of getting the thing out without collateral damage are greatly decreased.
And, yes- calipers should be replaced in pairs. The 'new' (or reman) one will move more freely, and probably grip a bit better. This may or may not cause a pull- in my experience, though, it'll make the brake with the new component get smoking hot, as it'll be doing most of the braking.
I just got a reman for one side of the crv and did the other rebuild myself by hand. Both the old and new work like butta. The rebuild was only half the caliper, with the old bracket and guide pins half remaining.
There are also left hand drill bits (maybe hard to find) that can be used to drill out the bleeder screw. Half the time they end up unscrewing the bolt you are trying to remove.
Take the caliper to a machine shop. They or their customers break thing often enough that they have all the tools and expertise to help. They are much more interested in a solution they can do and make money at than selling you a replacement.
In the future use a box wrench not an open end wrench and pull firmly but be gentle. Do not jerk the wrench. You have now learned something and can move on to the next thing to screw up. Don't worry. There are those that beak things and those that lie and say they don't.
In the future use a box wrench not an open end wrench and pull firmly but be gentle. Do not jerk the wrench. You have now learned something and can move on to the next thing to screw up. Don't worry. There are those that beak things and those that lie and say they don't.
If you snap the bleeder screw I do not believe it make a hoot whether you used pliers or the proper boxed end wrench. You did not round it, you snapped it.
I took a trailer brake drum to a machine shop where I had broken off a bolt. I had tried a drill press and an EZ Out but in the end felt the EZ Out would snap. The machine shop which their machines drilled out the exact size of the hole and then tried to use a tool to get rid of the rest of the screw thread metal, but it did not work and they drilled it out larger and used a heli-coil. However it was not cheap. I could imagine that a new or reman caliper would be cheaper than taking it to (and waiting) a machine shop.
And even if they fixed the caliper, you now have an old used caliper, not a reman or new.
Square shank screw extractors seem to break easily. Put some penetraing oil / light oil on the screw, let it soak, tap it lightly a bit. If possible drill out the offending screw to use as large of a screw extractor as possible, without damaging the threads. Short extractors are less likely to break than longer ones. Use a tap wrench or something else that doesn't put a large moment on the extractor when turning it, like a wrench would.
If you are into replacing chassis components then you are probably skilled enough to rebuild the calipers yourself. You might get rebuild kits and do both fronts. Drill out the bleeder and replace it. Unless you are lazy like me then get the re-man units.
Thanks guys for the suggestions. As soon as I get some time I will try to extract it. I just have a feeling the other three are going to do the same thing.
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