Is it remotely possible to drop the pan and reinstall it without the use of a torque wrench? I realise the importance of getting an even and accurate torque applied around the pan gasket, but can this be done without a torque wrench?
Applying Torque to the Transmission Pan Screws
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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I changed a water pump without using a torque wrench. No leaks.
As long as you have an idea as to what XX ft lbs should feel like, then you should be fine.
As long as you have an idea as to what XX ft lbs should feel like, then you should be fine.
AllData says (10 ft. lbs)
I figure a 1/4'' drive ratchet and extension might give me the right feel.
I figure a 1/4'' drive ratchet and extension might give me the right feel.
Of course.
I dropped the pan on the Aero last year. Their were eighteen small bolts holding it. The gasket material is cork, with little steel studs on each side of each bolt hole, probably to prevent local crushing of the gasket.
I started each bolt, ran them down snug, and then did a final criss-cross tightening, starting toward the center of the pan, just like a head. Ran them to a reasonable tightness using the wrist torque meter, and all has been well.
I dropped the pan on the Aero last year. Their were eighteen small bolts holding it. The gasket material is cork, with little steel studs on each side of each bolt hole, probably to prevent local crushing of the gasket.
I started each bolt, ran them down snug, and then did a final criss-cross tightening, starting toward the center of the pan, just like a head. Ran them to a reasonable tightness using the wrist torque meter, and all has been well.
Most pans I have seen use an inch/pound figure to tighten so that says something. Merkava has it nailed though, I alwasy use a 1/4" drive ratchet to do those.
Be nice to the bolts and take your time to hand tighten them slowly.
It is very easy to cross thread them as I did when I dropped the pan. Coming to torque is should be very less something in the order of 10-15 ft pds.
It is very easy to cross thread them as I did when I dropped the pan. Coming to torque is should be very less something in the order of 10-15 ft pds.
Through the years I've dropped a few transmission pans. Have never used a torque wrench. But ya gotta be careful. Ten ft/lbs ain't much. Keeping the gasket in place as you get things started back is kinda fun, too!
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You can do it. Just do not over tighten.
Use a little fine sewing thread to tie the gasket to the pan through the bolt holes of each. I found this suggestion on an Aerostar forum, and it works really well.
I use elastomeric grey silicon like permatex "right stuff" or other brand like kleenflo quik gasket.
Snapon sells a special torque wrench for that exact application. Gm techs will get in trouble from their employer if they dont use a torque wrench.
I do not use a torque wrench for tranny pans and usually dont have issues. If I use elastomeric silicion I NEVER EVER have a leak guaranteed 100%
If you use a gasket you should be using yellow snot like 3M weatherstrip glue to hold the gasket on the pan.Use the grey silicon (not ultra grey from permatex)with a thin coat and snug up the bolts.
torquing the bolts sometimes will mess you up. Depending on the gasket you use you might squeeze it it out.
Snapon sells a special torque wrench for that exact application. Gm techs will get in trouble from their employer if they dont use a torque wrench.
I do not use a torque wrench for tranny pans and usually dont have issues. If I use elastomeric silicion I NEVER EVER have a leak guaranteed 100%
If you use a gasket you should be using yellow snot like 3M weatherstrip glue to hold the gasket on the pan.Use the grey silicon (not ultra grey from permatex)with a thin coat and snug up the bolts.
torquing the bolts sometimes will mess you up. Depending on the gasket you use you might squeeze it it out.
Why can't you use Ultra Grey?
Can't you just install gaskets dry?
Can't you just install gaskets dry?
I wouldn't reccomend silicon (gray or otherwise). It acts as a lubricant and will only aide in squeezing the gasket out of place... causing a leak.
My preferred method (as someone has already suggested) is to lightly glue the gasket to the pan with 3m weatherstripping adhesive, and leave the other side dry. Tranny pan gaskets are generally thick and soft, and don't need any 'help' sealing.
The weatherstripping adhesive neither improves nor inhibits sealing- it just holds the gasket in place. Be sure to only use a light coat and let it dry properly so it doesn't help the gasket squeeze out. Leaving the top side dry and wiping the pan rail off will help the gasket stay in place.
I tighten the pan bolts down evenly- fairly lightly with a 1/4" ratchet. I drive the vehicle for a week, then retorque the bolts- they WILL be loose.
My preferred method (as someone has already suggested) is to lightly glue the gasket to the pan with 3m weatherstripping adhesive, and leave the other side dry. Tranny pan gaskets are generally thick and soft, and don't need any 'help' sealing.
The weatherstripping adhesive neither improves nor inhibits sealing- it just holds the gasket in place. Be sure to only use a light coat and let it dry properly so it doesn't help the gasket squeeze out. Leaving the top side dry and wiping the pan rail off will help the gasket stay in place.
I tighten the pan bolts down evenly- fairly lightly with a 1/4" ratchet. I drive the vehicle for a week, then retorque the bolts- they WILL be loose.
Elastomeric silicon has zero dry or tacky time.
As I mentioned use a very thin film. Using yellow adhesive will hold the gasket and the very thin film of permatex "right stuff" will seal it.
Everyone will have thier methods.
As I mentioned use a very thin film. Using yellow adhesive will hold the gasket and the very thin film of permatex "right stuff" will seal it.
Everyone will have thier methods.
Okay I'm going to come clean and level with you guys -
I do intend on very much to acquire an inch-pound torque wrench some day, but I'm very particular on what tools I buy, and the torque wrench I have in mind is pricey; or what I consider to be pricey at this time.
So right now I'm weighing the urgency of changing the fluid against the desire to obtain an accurate torque application. So far I've leaned towards the desire to obtain an accurate torque application; which has prevented me from changing the fluid.
I do intend on very much to acquire an inch-pound torque wrench some day, but I'm very particular on what tools I buy, and the torque wrench I have in mind is pricey; or what I consider to be pricey at this time.
So right now I'm weighing the urgency of changing the fluid against the desire to obtain an accurate torque application. So far I've leaned towards the desire to obtain an accurate torque application; which has prevented me from changing the fluid.
So what if it leaks or weeps. The learning process costs you another gasket and some more fluid.
I've find that the cork piece of horse manure gaskets will squeeze/split if a rookie installs gaskets. There are black coloured gaskets that are stiffer in nature that do not squeeze out even when over torqued (within reason).
When you torque the bolts keep an eye on the gasket and see how it reacts. If it moves you should stop torquing. This is why I use a very thin film of elastomeric silicon so when and if the POS cork junk starts to move (even with weatherstrip glue)it will seal even with minimal bolt torque.
I've find that the cork piece of horse manure gaskets will squeeze/split if a rookie installs gaskets. There are black coloured gaskets that are stiffer in nature that do not squeeze out even when over torqued (within reason).
When you torque the bolts keep an eye on the gasket and see how it reacts. If it moves you should stop torquing. This is why I use a very thin film of elastomeric silicon so when and if the POS cork junk starts to move (even with weatherstrip glue)it will seal even with minimal bolt torque.
I'm more worried about damaging the pan than I am about leaks. Some guy told me that since it's an aluminum pan, it may crack, split, or warp from having uneven torque applied to it.
If the gasket stays in place well enough to allow you to get all bolts started, you should have no further problems.
I found the cork gasket rather retro, but in practice, it seems to work well.
Also, the original one came off in one piece, which I thought was a little surprising.
I found the cork gasket rather retro, but in practice, it seems to work well.
Also, the original one came off in one piece, which I thought was a little surprising.
i havent had any problem with cork or synthetic gaskets or with or without a torque wrench. remember these bolts are just holding the gasket/plan in plan. it is not a lugnut. following the tightening pattern and you shouldnt crack or warp the pan. usually this means start two or four corners first and then work clockwise or counterclockwise one bolt at a time from each corner. inspect your work a couple days later and if you see some leaks tighten the bolts in that area a bit.
On my last tranny job (Ford Escort) I tried using an inch pound torque wrench to get around 10 Ft. Lbs. and it seems like the the gasket would keep crushing down before I ever got close to 10 lbs. I ended up just doing it by hand.
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