Video: Cooling System Service on Nissan VQ35DE G35
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Nice. It looks a lot easier than changing an air filter!
Good to see you over here at BITOG, not just g35driver 
Originally Posted By: MidnightG35X
Good to see you over here at BITOG, not just g35driver
Oh I'm all over the place
Good to see you over here at BITOG, not just g35driver
Oh I'm all over the place
Nice video. I flushed my 05 Sentra at 30K. It wasn't that bad. There was a bleeder screw on the side of the block. I now drive a 07 Altima with the QR25DE. I have to check out the cooling system. I belive it has the newer type drain plugs like the G35.
i did this on my g35 last weekedend. at the end of your video you mention that it may take a few attempts to get all the air out, yes it does! i bleed the air out the "official" way at least 4-5 times. after i finished, i now believe the old school way would have been quicker and better. namely, leaving the cap off and letting the engine run with the heater on high allowing the air bubbles to leave through the radiator cap. you just gotta use judgement on when the bubbles are due to heating of the fluid and no longer air bubbles. in general, its not hard to tell the difference.
naturally, if you have enough miles, replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses wouldn't be a bad idea.
in my case, i went ahead and replaced the belts as well since they are easily accessed once those billion of bolts that hold on the skid plate are removed.
for all the above work, no need to jack up the vehicle, you can do it all by just driving the front wheels up on a 2x8 and reaching under.
naturally, if you have enough miles, replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses wouldn't be a bad idea.
in my case, i went ahead and replaced the belts as well since they are easily accessed once those billion of bolts that hold on the skid plate are removed.
for all the above work, no need to jack up the vehicle, you can do it all by just driving the front wheels up on a 2x8 and reaching under.
Originally Posted By: mikeinaustin
i did this on my g35 last weekedend. at the end of your video you mention that it may take a few attempts to get all the air out, yes it does! i bleed the air out the "official" way at least 4-5 times. after i finished, i now believe the old school way would have been quicker and better. namely, leaving the cap off and letting the engine run with the heater on high allowing the air bubbles to leave through the radiator cap. you just gotta use judgement on when the bubbles are due to heating of the fluid and no longer air bubbles. in general, its not hard to tell the difference.
naturally, if you have enough miles, replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses wouldn't be a bad idea.
in my case, i went ahead and replaced the belts as well since they are easily accessed once those billion of bolts that hold on the skid plate are removed.
for all the above work, no need to jack up the vehicle, you can do it all by just driving the front wheels up on a 2x8 and reaching under.
IMHO, the important thing is that your temp gauge is steady after the service. Then all you have to do is check the level when the car is hot and top off. Repeat after the car has sat and cooled until the level no longer drops. Very easy and a no-brainer really. The problem with the "old skool" method, is that the radiator cap is no longer the highest point in the system, the air relief valve is, so you wouldn't be able to get all the air our using that method.
i did this on my g35 last weekedend. at the end of your video you mention that it may take a few attempts to get all the air out, yes it does! i bleed the air out the "official" way at least 4-5 times. after i finished, i now believe the old school way would have been quicker and better. namely, leaving the cap off and letting the engine run with the heater on high allowing the air bubbles to leave through the radiator cap. you just gotta use judgement on when the bubbles are due to heating of the fluid and no longer air bubbles. in general, its not hard to tell the difference.
naturally, if you have enough miles, replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses wouldn't be a bad idea.
in my case, i went ahead and replaced the belts as well since they are easily accessed once those billion of bolts that hold on the skid plate are removed.
for all the above work, no need to jack up the vehicle, you can do it all by just driving the front wheels up on a 2x8 and reaching under.
IMHO, the important thing is that your temp gauge is steady after the service. Then all you have to do is check the level when the car is hot and top off. Repeat after the car has sat and cooled until the level no longer drops. Very easy and a no-brainer really. The problem with the "old skool" method, is that the radiator cap is no longer the highest point in the system, the air relief valve is, so you wouldn't be able to get all the air our using that method.
Quote:
The problem with the "old skool" method, is that the radiator cap is no longer the highest point in the system, the air relief valve is, so you wouldn't be able to get all the air our using that method.
Good point. Thanks for the tip.
The problem with the "old skool" method, is that the radiator cap is no longer the highest point in the system, the air relief valve is, so you wouldn't be able to get all the air our using that method.
Good point. Thanks for the tip.
Better lighting from the camera toward the 'subject' would help. Sometimes an arm would block the subject. I enjoyed the video.
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