Smog test results indicative of O2 sensor health?

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I was thinking of replacing the upstream O2 sensors on the Burb as a preventative maintenance item as I figure they have gotten a bit lazy over the past 130k+ miles and I can get a pair of Denso sensors shipped to my door for less than $50, but the smog test I had performed today in order to renew my registration makes me think that is unnecessary. O2 and CO readings at idle and 2607 RPM were 0.0% and hydrocarbons were 5 ppm at idle and 7 ppm at 2607 RPM (max allowed is 100 and 180, average passing vehicle is 26 and 11).

Am I correct in assuming that those good numbers mean my upstream 02 sensors are doing their job of regulating the A/F mixture pretty darn well?
 
Either that or the Catcons are still able to clean up the mess after the fact. :)

Is this an actual up-the-pipe probe test? Does CA still do that to OBD-II vehicles? Here only OBD-1 gets sniffed. OBD-II gets plugged in and the vehicle tests itself.

Which actually brings up a point: OBD-II is supposed to throw a code if an O2 sensor isn't showing enough zero-crossings per second, which is an indication of "laziness." I'd personally never throw parts at an OBD-II vehicle unless it tells me that it needs them.
 
Yes, with that result you won't get any benefit changing your O2 prematurely.

I only change my O2 when I'm about to fail smog.
 
From NTK:

Servicing Intervals & Life Expectancy of an Oxygen Sensor

Increasingly stricter, federally mandated emissions regulations demand that you ensure your vehicle's emissions controls are in optimal form and the oxygen sensor plays a vital role in this process. In fact, bad/poisoned oxygen sensors are the leading cause of excess harmful exhaust emissions, contributing to the greenhouse effect.*

Because of the importance, therefore, placed on the service life and role of the oxygen sensor on your vehicle's emissions controls much has been written in recent years by aftermarket manufacturers and suppliers attempting to determine the life expectancy and replacement intervals of oxygen sensors. Real world conditions, however, truly dictate an oxygen sensor's life span. Due to the hostile environment in which sensors operate and the very different circumstances and drivers each vehicle experiences it would be impossible to definitively establish what the service life of a sensor should be.

Oxygen sensors are subjected to a considerable amount of wear & tear, ageing, and extreme temperatures even under normal operating conditions. Harmful contaminants, however, that may be present in your vehicle's exhaust stream can significantly reduce the life span of an oxygen sensor. Factors that contribute to the life span of the oxygen sensor include the location of the sensor on the vehicle's exhaust system. Sensors located directly in the manifold (usually 1 & 2 wire sensors) typically have a shorter life span due to the higher temperatures under which they operate and the increased exposure to harmful exhaust particulates (unspent fuel/oil). Conversely, sensors that have a heater in the thimble element (3 & 4 wire sensors) are more quickly brought up to operating temperatures, and therefore, are thus exposed to less harmful contaminants and operate under lower exhaust temperatures as they can be located further downstream in the exhaust system.

As the world's largest manufacturer and supplier of oxygen sensors, NTK brings to the aftermarket comprehensive knowledge of current and future OEM R & D, technology, and experience. All NTK oxygen sensors are extensively tested during manufacturing to guarantee quality, reliability, and above all, always meet or exceed the original equipment specifications. NTK oxygen sensors are designed for longer service life (from 80,000 up to 150,000km) and have been recognized as a leader in the industry. It is, however, always a good idea to have oxygen sensors checked at each tune-up and/or regular service intervals. With the harsh actual conditions in your vehicle's exhaust coupled with the higher temperatures of today's hotter running engines, NTK generally recommends checking your oxygen sensor at every 60,000km and/or every tune-up for any excess ageing or premature signs of sensor poisoning and contamination. Replace faulty sensors with confidence in a product and name you can trust, NTK Oxygen Sensors.

* Study conducted by California Air Resources Board (CARB)
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Either that or the Catcons are still able to clean up the mess after the fact. :)

Is this an actual up-the-pipe probe test? Does CA still do that to OBD-II vehicles? Here only OBD-1 gets sniffed. OBD-II gets plugged in and the vehicle tests itself.

Which actually brings up a point: OBD-II is supposed to throw a code if an O2 sensor isn't showing enough zero-crossings per second, which is an indication of "laziness." I'd personally never throw parts at an OBD-II vehicle unless it tells me that it needs them.


Supposedly 2000 and later model year only get plugged in without a tailpipe test unless they're over 14,000 lbs GVW or have no means to plug in. This was supposed to be in effect by last summer.

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/05...resentation.pdf
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Either that or the Catcons are still able to clean up the mess after the fact. :)

Is this an actual up-the-pipe probe test? Does CA still do that to OBD-II vehicles? Here only OBD-1 gets sniffed. OBD-II gets plugged in and the vehicle tests itself.

Which actually brings up a point: OBD-II is supposed to throw a code if an O2 sensor isn't showing enough zero-crossings per second, which is an indication of "laziness." I'd personally never throw parts at an OBD-II vehicle unless it tells me that it needs them.


I think it is an up-the-pipe test. The report lists three tests: Comprehensive Visual Inspection (for cats, EGR, wiring, vacuum lines, etc.), Functional Check (fuel cap, fuel EVAP, EGR, etc.), and Emissions Test (the results of which I gave above). OBDII vehicles can't self-test for hydrocarbons and CO, can they?
 
CA still does tailpipe on all cars. The scanner method never went into effect. Too many shops were upset at having to buy thousands of dollars in equipment only to have them rendered useless now.
 
With emissions that low either:
-your upstream O2s are working properly and your cats are working quite well or
-the gas analyzer is out of calibration

It is very likely that the O2s and the cats are in good working order. I would like to see O2 a little higher, maybe around 0.2%, but maybe the guy who wrote the factory tune thinks differently. He knows a lot more about that stuff than I do.
 
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If your gas mileage is fine do nothing. If I were to replace them I would use Bosch sensors, the Denso ones are a rip and I only use them on a Toyota. I have over 145K on a Bosch O2 sensor and I pass emissions just fine.
 
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Originally Posted By: yonyon


It is very likely that the O2s and the cats are in good working order. I would like to see O2 a little higher, maybe around 0.2%, but maybe the guy who wrote the factory tune thinks differently. He knows a lot more about that stuff than I do.


Why do you want to see .2% O2?
 
It's just a personal bias, really. It's easier for me to believe you're getting an efficient burn if it's running a little leaner. It doesn't necessarily work out that way though.
 
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
OBDII vehicles can't self-test for hydrocarbons and CO, can they?


That's pretty much what they do in order to trim the engine tune, and in addition comparing the upstream and downstream O2 sensors tells them that the catcon is working right. The data's all there, its just a matter of reading it out. I'm not enough of an OBD-II wonk to know exactly what all the inspection shop reads out when they plug in, but that's how its done in Texas "non-attainment" areas like Austin, Houston, El Paso, and D/FW. OBD-1 cars get a sniffer test (idle and high idle in Austin, I think some other areas need the 'treadmill' test). Rural areas still just get a visual, as far as I know.
 
The OBDII computer has these "readiness" flags that it sets. Basically, the ECU is checking various parameters as it goes along; and if the items pass the self check after the code is cleared, it will set the readiness flag for that item. This is done so that one cannot clear a code and then immediately try to pass OBDII emission checks--the flags are not set as the system has not passed self check.

Getting the readiness flags to set may take a while, depending upon how it is tested. So many cold starts, so many miles, that sort of thing.
 
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