gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Posted this on the Subie forums, but figured I'd post it here as well to see what you guys think. Who doesn't like pictures, too, right?
CN: So, I've had a pig-like squeal while in boost ever since I got my car back from the body shop last year. My fuel trim has also been kind of wonky. Nothing seemed loose every time I inspected for the gross and obviou, but I pulled the IC yesterday and inspected everything even more closely. I found that too-long bolts were used on one side of the Y-connection at the bottom of the IC, causing it to push into the IC and crack it (See pics, and below for more info.)
Dealer also replaced the secondary air injection valves not too long before the accident. So, only the dealer and the body shop have touched the IC in the past couple of years. The body shop says they did NOT have to remove the IC to remove the engine, which the dealer says is required to detach various harnesses.
So, does the IC have to be removed to remove the engine? Comments and suggestions welcome. Also, please note that the body shop manager has been great, though his guys don't seem like they're of the highest caliber.
LONG VERSION:
I was hit a few months ago, causing ~$15k in damage. The subframe needed to be replaced, requiring the motor to be pulled. My car was in the shop for just about a month before I got it back.
The first day I got it back I noticed a few things that were annoying, but not that big of a deal.
1. They used the wrong fasteners for the MAF sensor - my AEM was wrecked, so I gave them my stock box to put back in, including ALL hardware. When I brought it to their attention, they ended up simply screwing them in
2. No clips for the back of the undertray. When I brought it up, they drilled and tapped out the subframe and screwed the undertray to the subrame. THIS I was [censored] about, especially after they claimed they were unable to source the clips (I spoke to the dealer parts guy and he pulled them up in 2 minutes.) :furious:
3. Overspray. Everywhere. Otherwise, a very impressive job :lol:
4. One of the headlights had no level adjust. They replaced it, and while the light pattern seems a little off, they're good enough.
5. Mismatched bolts. Two different bolts, one brass-like and one OEM, were used to attach the hard vacuum lines to the IC. Not a big deal, just annoying.
6. Bent Perrin front endlink: I had the car up on a lift to inspect soon after I got it back, and immediately noticed the endlink was bent. I replaced it.
It wasn't until the next day that I noticed the squeal. The body shop was nice enough to install Group N tranny and engine mounts for me while they had the motor out, so I at first assumed it was that. After a while, it sunk in that this was not a gear whine, but a full on squeal, sounding similar to a cracked exhaust or boost leak, but I couldn't find anything obvious; no loose/disconnected hoses and no soot or buildup around any of the exhaust flanges (I did notice an exhaust leak in the catback connection, though replacing the gasket did not fix the squeal.)
Yesterday, I pulled the IC to see what I could find. I almost reinstalled it, having found nothing more than a VERY slightly loose hose clamp. While flipping and orienting the IC for installation, however, the bolts for the Y-connection caught my eye. One side had longer bolts than the other.
Upon closer inspection I noticed one of the too-long bolts had actually seated against the IC and cracked it! [censored] :diaf:
NOTHING requires those bolts to be touched unless a leak was suspected, and the only thing ON the IC that requires loosening to remove are the two hose clamps. I have no idea why these bolts were touched, let alone replaced, but it's infuriating, and obviously both Subaru and the body shop are denying any wrong-doing.
For now, I have a loaner while the body shop looks into it, and I'm hoping they fork over the money to replace the [censored] thing. So, on to my options:
1. Buy new from dealer: $600
2. Buy used from forum: $? unknown quality
3. Repair: no idea how to, nor cost to have done professionally...
Notice the residue on the left-hand side. I'm sure the gasket is leaking.
Notice the crack
OEM bolts
[censored]
Also noticed that the BPV gasket was different than what I've used in the past
Endlink
CN: So, I've had a pig-like squeal while in boost ever since I got my car back from the body shop last year. My fuel trim has also been kind of wonky. Nothing seemed loose every time I inspected for the gross and obviou, but I pulled the IC yesterday and inspected everything even more closely. I found that too-long bolts were used on one side of the Y-connection at the bottom of the IC, causing it to push into the IC and crack it (See pics, and below for more info.)
Dealer also replaced the secondary air injection valves not too long before the accident. So, only the dealer and the body shop have touched the IC in the past couple of years. The body shop says they did NOT have to remove the IC to remove the engine, which the dealer says is required to detach various harnesses.
So, does the IC have to be removed to remove the engine? Comments and suggestions welcome. Also, please note that the body shop manager has been great, though his guys don't seem like they're of the highest caliber.
LONG VERSION:
I was hit a few months ago, causing ~$15k in damage. The subframe needed to be replaced, requiring the motor to be pulled. My car was in the shop for just about a month before I got it back.
The first day I got it back I noticed a few things that were annoying, but not that big of a deal.
1. They used the wrong fasteners for the MAF sensor - my AEM was wrecked, so I gave them my stock box to put back in, including ALL hardware. When I brought it to their attention, they ended up simply screwing them in
2. No clips for the back of the undertray. When I brought it up, they drilled and tapped out the subframe and screwed the undertray to the subrame. THIS I was [censored] about, especially after they claimed they were unable to source the clips (I spoke to the dealer parts guy and he pulled them up in 2 minutes.) :furious:
3. Overspray. Everywhere. Otherwise, a very impressive job :lol:
4. One of the headlights had no level adjust. They replaced it, and while the light pattern seems a little off, they're good enough.
5. Mismatched bolts. Two different bolts, one brass-like and one OEM, were used to attach the hard vacuum lines to the IC. Not a big deal, just annoying.
6. Bent Perrin front endlink: I had the car up on a lift to inspect soon after I got it back, and immediately noticed the endlink was bent. I replaced it.
It wasn't until the next day that I noticed the squeal. The body shop was nice enough to install Group N tranny and engine mounts for me while they had the motor out, so I at first assumed it was that. After a while, it sunk in that this was not a gear whine, but a full on squeal, sounding similar to a cracked exhaust or boost leak, but I couldn't find anything obvious; no loose/disconnected hoses and no soot or buildup around any of the exhaust flanges (I did notice an exhaust leak in the catback connection, though replacing the gasket did not fix the squeal.)
Yesterday, I pulled the IC to see what I could find. I almost reinstalled it, having found nothing more than a VERY slightly loose hose clamp. While flipping and orienting the IC for installation, however, the bolts for the Y-connection caught my eye. One side had longer bolts than the other.
Upon closer inspection I noticed one of the too-long bolts had actually seated against the IC and cracked it! [censored] :diaf:
NOTHING requires those bolts to be touched unless a leak was suspected, and the only thing ON the IC that requires loosening to remove are the two hose clamps. I have no idea why these bolts were touched, let alone replaced, but it's infuriating, and obviously both Subaru and the body shop are denying any wrong-doing.
For now, I have a loaner while the body shop looks into it, and I'm hoping they fork over the money to replace the [censored] thing. So, on to my options:
1. Buy new from dealer: $600
2. Buy used from forum: $? unknown quality
3. Repair: no idea how to, nor cost to have done professionally...
Notice the residue on the left-hand side. I'm sure the gasket is leaking.
Notice the crack
OEM bolts
[censored]
Also noticed that the BPV gasket was different than what I've used in the past
Endlink
