I've got the cam cover off to adjust some of the valves, so I thought you guys might want to see some photos.
I've used a variety of oils and filters in the bike, including Yamalube and Castrol, Yamaha OEM filters, Purolator Pure One 14610 or 14612, and Bosch 3300s. I used to change the oil like every 1500-2000 miles when I was riding a lot. In the last few years it's been more like every 3000 (or when I think it needs it, lol). The last several changes have been T6 and a Bosch 3300. Next change is going to be Rotella 15W-40 and a Bosch filter, since I've done some reading here about the 5W-40 shearing down in shared-sump bikes.
Camshafts and retainers still in:
Cams out:
Bumpsticks:
I had previously checked the valve clearances back in 2009 when the bike had about 25K, and they were close enough not to bother with adjusting. This time, all the intake valve clearances were within spec, but all the exhaust valves needed re-shimming. (They were only a few hundreths of a millimeter tight.)
I called a nearby dealer today, and the parts guy said that the service dept. will often trade shims, so that will save me about $50-60.
Also been having a starter problem for a while - the bike acts like it's killing the battery every time I start it cold. Then, if I shut it off and go into a coffeeshop for an hour, then come back out and start it back up, it starts perfectly. I decided to pull the starter and have a look, and 2 of the brushes were sticking in the brush holder and looked like they weren't making contact with the commutator. So, I suspect that the starter was drawing too much current to turn the engine over with only 2 of the brushes making contact. Then, when the oil is hot and thin, it doesn't take as much juice to turn the engine over, therefore it starts fine. I don't know, though, someone else who's better with electrical might be able to chime in here.
So I sanded and cleaned them. Also checked measurements and resistances, and everything was in spec, so, hopefully that will fix me up and I'll have a good-running R1 this season!
I've used a variety of oils and filters in the bike, including Yamalube and Castrol, Yamaha OEM filters, Purolator Pure One 14610 or 14612, and Bosch 3300s. I used to change the oil like every 1500-2000 miles when I was riding a lot. In the last few years it's been more like every 3000 (or when I think it needs it, lol). The last several changes have been T6 and a Bosch 3300. Next change is going to be Rotella 15W-40 and a Bosch filter, since I've done some reading here about the 5W-40 shearing down in shared-sump bikes.
Camshafts and retainers still in:
Cams out:
Bumpsticks:
I had previously checked the valve clearances back in 2009 when the bike had about 25K, and they were close enough not to bother with adjusting. This time, all the intake valve clearances were within spec, but all the exhaust valves needed re-shimming. (They were only a few hundreths of a millimeter tight.)
I called a nearby dealer today, and the parts guy said that the service dept. will often trade shims, so that will save me about $50-60.
Also been having a starter problem for a while - the bike acts like it's killing the battery every time I start it cold. Then, if I shut it off and go into a coffeeshop for an hour, then come back out and start it back up, it starts perfectly. I decided to pull the starter and have a look, and 2 of the brushes were sticking in the brush holder and looked like they weren't making contact with the commutator. So, I suspect that the starter was drawing too much current to turn the engine over with only 2 of the brushes making contact. Then, when the oil is hot and thin, it doesn't take as much juice to turn the engine over, therefore it starts fine. I don't know, though, someone else who's better with electrical might be able to chime in here.
So I sanded and cleaned them. Also checked measurements and resistances, and everything was in spec, so, hopefully that will fix me up and I'll have a good-running R1 this season!
