I just bought an old Snapper Hi Vac mower with a little old 3.5hp briggs engine which I believe used the foam air filters that you soak in engine oil. Are these pretty good at catching all the dirt and dust? My yard can get pretty dusty, so that was my main concern. Every mower I've had experience with before was newer and had some form of a paper filter. Is there anything available that would convert it to a paper style filter? Thanks.
oiled foam filters
- Thread starter afoulk
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IMO oiled foam filters used typically in B&S pulsa-jet style carbs will let large particles through, no matter how well you oil them.
The workaround I'm aware of (which helps a bit, but messy) is to use those tacky spray oil from K&N kit, which I have done before but messy afterwards.
I'm not aware of any conversion kit for those foam style air filter configuration (maybe I need to search harder?)
Good luck.
Q.
The workaround I'm aware of (which helps a bit, but messy) is to use those tacky spray oil from K&N kit, which I have done before but messy afterwards.
I'm not aware of any conversion kit for those foam style air filter configuration (maybe I need to search harder?)
Good luck.
Q.
The oiled foam air filters (when properly serviced) actually trap dirt better than the disposable paper air filters. The reasons that B&S went away from them and to the disposable paper elements are A. because most people did not know how to properly clean/re-oil them (ultimately damaging the engine and giving B&S a bad reputation) and B. because B&S makes a lot more money off of the paper elements as they need to be purchased/replaced regularly. The foam elements (when properly serviced) can last for years.
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I was looking Briggs replacement filters at Lowes last night and they explain how to oil them on the back and then go on to tell you it should be replaced, I think it was every 25hrs of use. So its actually ok to wash them and reoil them? I kinda remember going over these in my small gas engines class in high school, and I think I remember being told you could wash them in dish soap and hot water and then to soak them in engine oil and dab the excess off with a paper towel, or maybe squeeze the excess out, I forget. I think I had that class about 17yrs ago
Yes, afoulk, the instructions are indeed correct.
BTW: make sure you ring the foam to rid of excess water (after you wash it in dawn +hot water), air-dry it thoroughly before you oil it in motor oil (any motor oil you have on-hand, typically SAE30 or 10W30 or whatever fresh). Try to rub the oil in to the clean foam (so as to have all the foam cells soaked in oil or at least coated in oil film) before you lightly wring it, not to the point of completely out of oil, but just slightly moist, that's it.
Q.
BTW: make sure you ring the foam to rid of excess water (after you wash it in dawn +hot water), air-dry it thoroughly before you oil it in motor oil (any motor oil you have on-hand, typically SAE30 or 10W30 or whatever fresh). Try to rub the oil in to the clean foam (so as to have all the foam cells soaked in oil or at least coated in oil film) before you lightly wring it, not to the point of completely out of oil, but just slightly moist, that's it.
Q.
thanks guys
Every off road dirt bike made runs a foam oiled air filter. Fab1 filter oil is super sticky and works great for this application
Originally Posted By: Quest
Yes, afoulk, the instructions are indeed correct.
BTW: make sure you ring the foam to rid of excess water (after you wash it in dawn +hot water), air-dry it thoroughly before you oil it in motor oil (any motor oil you have on-hand, typically SAE30 or 10W30 or whatever fresh). Try to rub the oil in to the clean foam (so as to have all the foam cells soaked in oil or at least coated in oil film) before you lightly wring it, not to the point of completely out of oil, but just slightly moist, that's it.
Q.
Correct. Wash ONLY with warm water & dish soap.
But, you don't need to let it dry out after washing it (but you can if you want to), just squeeze as much of the water out of it as you can. Then, dump at least a couple of ounces of fresh motor oil on the clean filter (it doesn't matter what weight it is), let it soak in, work it in thoroughly by massaging it, then squeeze it hard to get out the excess oil (and left over moisture). DO NOT cut the foam lip off from around the outside of the foam element (I have seen a lot of people that do this), the lip acts as a seal for the case halves, and make sure that you put the round plastic or metal support stack back into the middle of the foam element before putting the cover back on. Also, make sure that you have a seal on top of the carb where the air filter mounts down onto. You can easily get 7 or 8 seasons out of one of these filters if you service it this way.
There are several different sizes of these foam elements and, in addition, there are several different shapes. Be sure that you get the right one! The 3.5hp B&S vertical shaft engines from that era use the smaller rectangular shaped filter with kind of cut off top corners, NOT the filter with a pointed end on one side. The B&S part number is 270579.
Yes, afoulk, the instructions are indeed correct.
BTW: make sure you ring the foam to rid of excess water (after you wash it in dawn +hot water), air-dry it thoroughly before you oil it in motor oil (any motor oil you have on-hand, typically SAE30 or 10W30 or whatever fresh). Try to rub the oil in to the clean foam (so as to have all the foam cells soaked in oil or at least coated in oil film) before you lightly wring it, not to the point of completely out of oil, but just slightly moist, that's it.
Q.
Correct. Wash ONLY with warm water & dish soap.
But, you don't need to let it dry out after washing it (but you can if you want to), just squeeze as much of the water out of it as you can. Then, dump at least a couple of ounces of fresh motor oil on the clean filter (it doesn't matter what weight it is), let it soak in, work it in thoroughly by massaging it, then squeeze it hard to get out the excess oil (and left over moisture). DO NOT cut the foam lip off from around the outside of the foam element (I have seen a lot of people that do this), the lip acts as a seal for the case halves, and make sure that you put the round plastic or metal support stack back into the middle of the foam element before putting the cover back on. Also, make sure that you have a seal on top of the carb where the air filter mounts down onto. You can easily get 7 or 8 seasons out of one of these filters if you service it this way.
There are several different sizes of these foam elements and, in addition, there are several different shapes. Be sure that you get the right one! The 3.5hp B&S vertical shaft engines from that era use the smaller rectangular shaped filter with kind of cut off top corners, NOT the filter with a pointed end on one side. The B&S part number is 270579.
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
The only annoying thing about washing/oiling filters is the waiting for the filter to dry. I don't mind the messiness, just the waiting. They do last season after season when cared for though.
So, my having told you that you don't have to let the filter dry-out after washing it should have made your day, right?
The only annoying thing about washing/oiling filters is the waiting for the filter to dry. I don't mind the messiness, just the waiting. They do last season after season when cared for though.
So, my having told you that you don't have to let the filter dry-out after washing it should have made your day, right?
I have a Honda engine GXV 530-EXA1 Sears Tractor that uses both foam and paper. The 1/4" thick foam sandwiches between metal mesh and paper filter. I believe it is called pre-filter. It's been ten years and the foam piece is crumbling.
Has anyone replace this foam with a packaging foam? I'm contemplating slicing the packaging foam in half to replace the original foam. The paper filter is dirty, still useable but not plug.
Has anyone replace this foam with a packaging foam? I'm contemplating slicing the packaging foam in half to replace the original foam. The paper filter is dirty, still useable but not plug.
us radio control guys use oiled foam filters. it seams to work good. they run in the dirt a lot. and running one with no filter is just asking for trouble.
Originally Posted By: Tundragod
I have a Honda engine GXV 530-EXA1 Sears Tractor that uses both foam and paper. The 1/4" thick foam sandwiches between metal mesh and paper filter. I believe it is called pre-filter. It's been ten years and the foam piece is crumbling.
Has anyone replace this foam with a packaging foam? I'm contemplating slicing the packaging foam in half to replace the original foam. The paper filter is dirty, still useable but not plug.
No. The kind of foam used for air filter elements is different. Just buy a new foam element for the engine, they aren't expensive. Be sure to oil it LIGHTLY before installation, they don't need as much oil in them as a foam-only air filter.
Also, while you are at it, buy a new paper element. It may appear to be good but after 10 years it is bound to be restricted with dirt that you can't see. A restricted air filter will cause the engine to suck dirty air in through the carburetor's throttle shaft and wear it out, I have seen it a thousand times.
I have a Honda engine GXV 530-EXA1 Sears Tractor that uses both foam and paper. The 1/4" thick foam sandwiches between metal mesh and paper filter. I believe it is called pre-filter. It's been ten years and the foam piece is crumbling.
Has anyone replace this foam with a packaging foam? I'm contemplating slicing the packaging foam in half to replace the original foam. The paper filter is dirty, still useable but not plug.
No. The kind of foam used for air filter elements is different. Just buy a new foam element for the engine, they aren't expensive. Be sure to oil it LIGHTLY before installation, they don't need as much oil in them as a foam-only air filter.
Also, while you are at it, buy a new paper element. It may appear to be good but after 10 years it is bound to be restricted with dirt that you can't see. A restricted air filter will cause the engine to suck dirty air in through the carburetor's throttle shaft and wear it out, I have seen it a thousand times.
Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
The only annoying thing about washing/oiling filters is the waiting for the filter to dry. I don't mind the messiness, just the waiting. They do last season after season when cared for though.
So, my having told you that you don't have to let the filter dry-out after washing it should have made your day, right?
Ha Ha, ok you don't HAVE to let them dry out, but it may be better/more correct. If you want a real wait, wash and dry a Harley Davidson paper air filter out like the manual tells you to...
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
The only annoying thing about washing/oiling filters is the waiting for the filter to dry. I don't mind the messiness, just the waiting. They do last season after season when cared for though.
So, my having told you that you don't have to let the filter dry-out after washing it should have made your day, right?
Ha Ha, ok you don't HAVE to let them dry out, but it may be better/more correct. If you want a real wait, wash and dry a Harley Davidson paper air filter out like the manual tells you to...
Dad's Honda tractor uses both a sheet of foam as a pre-filter then filters the air a second time with a paper element. Very good set-up ... but it's a project to service (gets very messy) and is expensive to replace (the paper) every few years.
I service foam filters in a bucket (5 gallon or a little smaller). It limits the mess you make and the Simple Green you need to use to clean things off properly ... especially if you do a bunch at the same time.
While it is true that foam filters are not usually picky about oil weight, I like to use chain & bar oil as it has extra tack additives which trap more dirt. However, trapping more dirt means you should probably service it more often ... and the extra stickiness makes the process a bit messier.
I service foam filters in a bucket (5 gallon or a little smaller). It limits the mess you make and the Simple Green you need to use to clean things off properly ... especially if you do a bunch at the same time.
While it is true that foam filters are not usually picky about oil weight, I like to use chain & bar oil as it has extra tack additives which trap more dirt. However, trapping more dirt means you should probably service it more often ... and the extra stickiness makes the process a bit messier.
My Craftsman leaf blower has a foam air filter. I wash it in warm water and dish detergent, rinse thoroughly and let it dry. I then put it In a ziplock and add some bar & chain oil and knead the oil into the filter. Remove it from the bag, squeeze out the excess oil and put the filter back in the blower.
I chose bar & chain oil because its thick & tacky, I used motor oil once and it bled out of the filter.
I chose bar & chain oil because its thick & tacky, I used motor oil once and it bled out of the filter.
for those who can't wait for the foam to dry---wring the water out of it, then do it again with a paper towel--viola
I never oil my foam pre-filters
I never oil my foam pre-filters
Steve20, I like the paper towel trick, too.
You are fine not oiling a pre-filter. However, if the foam element is the ONLY filter element (no paper behind it) then you are letting a LOT of fine dust into the cylinders when leaving it dry.
You are fine not oiling a pre-filter. However, if the foam element is the ONLY filter element (no paper behind it) then you are letting a LOT of fine dust into the cylinders when leaving it dry.
did a panic move w filters a while back. Found a completely broken (how, who???) paper element on our bar mower at the farm. Had to use it the same day, so I found a new cheapo paper element for a nissan lying around, cut is to the frame size with scissors and heat glued it in place. Hope it is ok for that briggs 625 for a while. Both simpler to find out there, and will give another two or three elements when I get to it again... I know I will forget to order new filters next time too..
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