Oil filter questions, that we haven't discussed

[bchannell]

I couldn't find anything much about alternate filters for OPE, EXCEPT that you can use almost anything that fits. Well, I dunno, and I'm certainly no expert, but here goes some questions. I couldn't find the specs on a typical B&S filter, but if you cross reference it, you get a Wix 57035, for which specs are readily available. Ok, here we go
Wix 57035 Wix 51348
Full Flow
height 2.305
Outer dia 2.923
Thread 3/4-16
Bypass setting 8 PSI By-Pass 8-11 PSI
Anti-Drainback yes
Beta ratio 2/20=20/41 Beta ratio 2/20=6/20
Burst 275 PSI
Max Flow 7-9 GPM Max Flow 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating 32 Nominal Micron rating 15

OK, now a short explaination. None of these specs are all that different from the much cheaper Wix 51348, Fram PH3614, etc EXCEPT nominal micron rating, and whatever Beta Ration means. Turns out nominal micron rating means the filter can trap 50% of particles 32 microns in size (there is also an absolute micron rating which would mean it could trap 99% of a certain size particle, but I'm confusing the issue).
The Beta ration 2/20=20/42 is a rediculous code for saying 2 micron is caught 20% of the time, and 20 micron is caught 42% of the time. Why didn't they just say that???

Now, to save money, most of us use a Wix 51348 or Fram PH3614 or similar filter, with pertinent specs to the right of the 57035 above. Everything else being the same, we can see that both filters are operating around 8 GPM @ 8 PSI, the only real difference is the filter efficiency. The larger filter would have more surface area of filter paper, and we can say that it is less efficient at filtering small particles, even though it has a nominal 15 micron rating. Now that's the part that's hard to understand, it catches 20 micron particles 20% of the time, but it catches it's nominal rating of 15 microns 50% of the time, go figure?? By the way, I double checked those numbers.

So, the argument that some make to only stick with the original equipment filters doesn't seem to hold any water at all in terms of filtration. You're not over working your oil pump in a small engine, and you're not really getting any better filtration efficiency either, so it's a wash. I'd use whatever is cheaper.

Anyone see any error in my judgement? Am I misunderstanding some of these specs?
Your thought?

 

[barkingspider]

I agree, I would go with what is cheaper, most likely wix or fram

 

[Ramblejam]

I have Dr. Seuss running through my mind -- “Sometimes the questions are complicated and the answers are simple.”

 

[R80RS]

I think your assessment is accurate. I used to use Kohler OEM filters on my lawn tractor but changed to aftermarket about 7 years ago because the cost of the Kohler filter jumped to over $10. I found that the Motorcraft FL-910S cross references to my Kohler filter and it also crosses to your Wix 51348. The FL-910S is an excellent filter (made by Purolator) at a very reasonable price, and is generally considered to be better quality than the Fram you mentioned.

A good resource for cross referencing filters is here: http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/

 

[JTK]

I ran the equiv to motorcraft FL400's on my Kohler command and courage engines.

 

[bchannell]

Well, when I first started this, I had read everything I could find on it, here and on the web. It seemed everyone was under the impression that if it fit, ie. the thread size and gasket fit, then it was ok. I don't think that's true at all, BUT if you look at a limited range of filter sizes, such as the 3614 group, you see that it indeed is pretty similar, and I just can't imagine that there's any problem. The main complaints I've read were about oil starvation from a denser media, making it more resistant to pumping and that there is somehow a higher temperature rating on the OPE filters. I can't imagine that filter manufacturers make more than one standard temperature range filter for these, (cars and OPE) applications. They're probably all way over built in temperature handling ability.
I'd really like to see specs on Fram and Super Tech filters, but I trust that if they cross reference to the Wix, then they'll work fine. I'm not one of the Fram bashers, so I have no problem using one of their filters. This does save a fair amount in filter cost, and a nice plus is that these 3614, and other similar filters are everywhere, so no need to hunt for a special OPE filter anymore.

 

[KD0AXS]

I was at Tractor Supply the other day and noticed they had the OEM Kohler filters. They were E-Cores and they were charging 12 bucks for them. No thanks, I'll stick to a Motorcraft for $4.

 

[tc1446]

Originally Posted By: R80RS
I think your assessment is accurate. I used to use Kohler OEM filters on my lawn tractor but changed to aftermarket about 7 years ago because the cost of the Kohler filter jumped to over $10. I found that the Motorcraft FL-910S cross references to my Kohler filter and it also crosses to your Wix 51348. The FL-910S is an excellent filter (made by Purolator) at a very reasonable price, and is generally considered to be better quality than the Fram you mentioned.

A good resource for cross referencing filters is here: http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/


Been wanting a chart like this for ages! Thanks a lot.

 

[cronk]

I've been using the Wix 51348.
It fits my Saturn, the Briggs Vanguard v twin I am repowering a John Deere 317 with, and also fits my grandmothers JD STX38 that I maintain. I buy them in a master pack case if 12 for around $4 per filter.

 

[Ramblejam]

Originally Posted By: bchannell
The main complaints I've read were about oil starvation from a denser media, making it more resistant to pumping and that there is somehow a higher temperature rating on the OPE filters.


The issue at hand is you're taking conjecture as fact.

Give yourself some credit. One can deduce from a couple posts here that you're much more inquisitive and smarter than the average guy when it comes to these matters -- just don't over-think things too much. A FL-400S in available locally for peanuts, or a FL-910S if that's too long for your application.

 

[bchannell]

I admit to overthinking it, just wanted to get a second opinion to make sure I wasn't missing something.

 

[Bror Jace]

I am not sure you can compare bypass ratings across brands like that … not sure if they are conducted or reported consistently enough for the kind of comparisons you are making.

I would not consider buying an OEM filter for any OPE application. I am not convinced of any qualitative advantage and their cost is exorbitant.

I no longer maintain OPE that uses filters, but when I did, they started at $2 each for Supertech (Walmart) and some of the more popular sizes of NAPA Silver (Wix) and Motorcraft and went up to about $4 each.

Looking at the mediocre-to-poor quality of OEM filters, I made up my mind that using them was doing my engines no favors.

And the recommendations on some units was to change the filter every other oil change. What makes more sense? To change the oil and filter or to swap out most of the oil and leave an old filter, with the dirtiest oil in it, on the engine??

Buy and use the cheaper filters. They'll do the job and you're fine swapping them out more often.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
I was at Tractor Supply the other day and noticed they had the OEM Kohler filters. They were E-Cores and they were charging 12 bucks for them. No thanks, I'll stick to a Motorcraft for $4.


Wow! That is a lot for a filter. That's why I have been running an Autozone STP on my Kohler tractor for less than $4. It is an e-core but I have no fear. I will try to cross reference a Motorcraft or Purolater classic to get away from the e-core. Good idea.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: R80RS
I think your assessment is accurate. I used to use Kohler OEM filters on my lawn tractor but changed to aftermarket about 7 years ago because the cost of the Kohler filter jumped to over $10. I found that the Motorcraft FL-910S cross references to my Kohler filter and it also crosses to your Wix 51348. The FL-910S is an excellent filter (made by Purolator) at a very reasonable price, and is generally considered to be better quality than the Fram you mentioned.

A good resource for cross referencing filters is here: http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/



Thank you very much for this chart. I've spent hours on various engines trying to find equivalents.

Thanks again.