Kawasaki FR730V 230 cca supplied battery

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I noticed in the Kawasaki engine manual 550 cca battery required. Seems strange, because that is what some cars require. The battery from the factory on my Husqavarna TS354XD has a 230 cca batt. I think it is a U1. I just wonder how Kawasaki came with the 550 cca in the manual?

I feel the 230 cca that came with the mower is OK. I might step the amps up when I replace the battery in the future. I think they make a 275 amp, and higher than that in the same size when I was looking at batteries in Walmart one time.
 
I haven't even seen a U1 battery with that amount of cranking amps. The highest I've seen is usually 425, but I might've seen a 450 somewhere. Small engine owner's manuals are notoriously inaccurate.
 
I’d think the engine will have a better chance at applying a full charge to a smaller battery.
 
I would caution against getting batteries with high CCA in a given case size, especially in lawn and garden. CCA requires plate surface area and to get that, the plates get thinner and more susceptible to damage from vibration.

Even autos, I rarely select high CCA for a given group size. If it starts good on what you've got, I'd say stick with it.
 
The 550cca is not a type as Kawasaki is referencing a Group 51 battery CCA. The FD731 in my X540 takes the same size. Sure helps starting in the cold but is definitely double to triple the cost. If you never have to operate in winter temps, I'd just go with best U1 you can find. Everstart and duracell have been good to me in lawn and garden applications. This is the battery size on most Deere lawn mowers specify (older X4 and 5 series, now X590 and up, including the 102xR series tractors.

They make 350CCA U1 batteries, but as The_Eric pointed out, the higher the CCA in the same battery group, typical the shorter the life span.
 
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I would caution against getting batteries with high CCA in a given case size, especially in lawn and garden. CCA requires plate surface area and to get that, the plates get thinner and more susceptible to damage from vibration.

Even autos, I rarely select high CCA for a given group size. If it starts good on what you've got, I'd say stick with it.
I'm sure that is true in theory, but I have not noticed a difference either way. It seems the batteries either last a year or 2 or go for 5-6, and it depends more on use case (year round or sitting seasonally). In machines that get used year round I've had no issue getting 5-6 years out of a 350CCA battery. A lot of the bigger zero turns need the higher CCA batteries to turn the big engines over that are also turning the hydro pumps while being started.
 
A lot of the bigger zero turns need the higher CCA batteries to turn the big engines over that are also turning the hydro pumps while being started.
I bet the hydros would turn over much easier with HPL Tractor Life 5w50 in them 🤣

I have a NOCO 2D on my FR730V. It’s going on 5 years and has never failed even though it’s been subjected to -10F to over 100F. I’d figure with the NOCO it will probably make it to 10yo easily.
 
You need a bigger one for cold weather more likely. At least I do on my old F510. At 50F no problems.
 
The 550cca is not a type as Kawasaki is referencing a Group 51 battery CCA. The FD731 in my X540 takes the same size. Sure helps starting in the cold but is definitely double to triple the cost. If you never have to operate in winter temps, I'd just go with best U1 you can find. Everstart and duracell have been good to me in lawn and garden applications. This is the battery size on most Deere lawn mowers specify (older X4 and 5 series, now X590 and up, including the 102xR series tractors.

They make 350CCA U1 batteries, but as The_Eric pointed out, the higher the CCA in the same battery group, typical the shorter the life span.
To clarify this is for the group 51. This is the battery size on most Deere lawn mowers specify (older X4 and 5 series, now X590 and up, including the 102xR series tractors.
 
what mower is it in? I ask because I have a 2022 cub cadet. only has about 15 hours on the meter.

Battery drained down to 8.6 volts over winter in heated storage.
I never disconnected the cables in storage.

I now have the cables unhooked & seems to be accepting a full charge, but plan on getting a load test.

I tested ohms continuity/ resistance between red & black cables to see if there was a dead short.

It reads 24.7 K ohm.

Not sure if that indicates anything or a normal reading.
 
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