Cheap rebate oil any good?

[1977c10phxdriver]

I've been doing the rebate thing for some time now at Checker and Pepboys trying to save a few bucks on oil. I have 3 vehicles to service regulary and have a Frantz on each one.

Lately, i've been catching heck from a few machine shop guys for running "----" oil. Mostly it's Chevron or Shell 10/30 or Castrol 10/40 and some 20/50. Most have either one rating or maybe two.

Given todays lack of ZDDP, what rating is GOOD and which one's should I stay clear of?

Thanks a bunch.

Mark

 

[Drew99GT]

Well, if they want to pay full price for the same oil that you're getting for half off or even less, then let em. What do they consider non "----" oil?

 

[Steve S]

what kind of engine ? The oils listed are fine ,study up the used oil anaylsis' ? Not a bad one on your list. The oils are cheap to get you into the store and spend your $$$ on other high priced stuff.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

Vehicles are 77 chevy truck, mild built 350. 86 chevy 350 truck, stock. 86 305 caprice, stock.

The oils I have on hand are:

Chevron 10-30, SM

Shell 10-30, SL

Shell 10-40, SM

Mobil clean5000 10-40, SM/CF, SL, SJ, SH, SG

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

Forgot the one's they suggest. Any synthetic and Brad Penn racing oil. Some diesel oils but those are falling fast too.

 

[bobfather99]

Quote:

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Vehicles are 77 chevy truck, mild built 350. 86 chevy 350 truck, stock. 86 305 caprice, stock.

The oils I have on hand are:

Chevron 10-30, SM

Shell 10-30, SL

Shell 10-40, SM

Mobil clean5000 10-40, SM/CF, SL, SJ, SH, SG

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Any of these oils are fine for your vehicles, I really dont see what the mechanic's problem is with them...

 

[Aldaris]

I love rebate oil. It's just as good as full priced oil.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

The main reason the discussions started was all the flat tappet cam failures that seem to be showing up lately. I'm sure the oil has something to do with it but so does spring pressure and breakin procedures. Plus, if you use the provided cam/lifter moly paste, it's not really an issue. Roller cams are becoming more desirable due to the nature of the lack of friction on the cam lobes.

So far, all my vehicles are doing fine so I guess i'll keep buying the cheap stuff!

Mark

 

[Drew99GT]

So all your GM V-8s have solid lifters?

You're In Arizona, so you could easily run a 10w-30 or 15w-40 diesel/heavy duty oil. Even with the new CJ-4 spec, zinc/phosphorus is 200 ppm higher than Those SM/GF04 oils.

If you can get Chevron or Havoline 10w-40/20w-50, those two oils have SL levels of zinc as well since they aren't GF-4 energy conserving.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:

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I love rebate oil. It's just as good as full priced oil.

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Don't be too sure....

My BIL, as a teenager, thought that his mother didn't love him as much if he got sale jeans along with his holiday gifts (or at least he acted like it). There must be pain involved to assign value.

Take it back and pay more for another oil. It's the only way to be sure you're getting your money's worth.

 

[mechtech2]

Those flat tappet failures are by far for hot cams and valves with heavy springs.
For normal street cars with broken in cams/tappets, it isn't a real problem.

 

[Lonnie]

Be careful about the advice from friends. You're doing fine.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

Quote:

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So all your GM V-8s have solid lifters?

You're In Arizona, so you could easily run a 10w-30 or 15w-40 diesel/heavy duty oil. Even with the new CJ-4 spec, zinc/phosphorus is 200 ppm higher than Those SM/GF04 oils.

If you can get Chevron or Havoline 10w-40/20w-50, those two oils have SL levels of zinc as well since they aren't GF-4 energy conserving.

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The lifters are all hydralic flat tappet......not rollers.

I guess i'll keep running the "cheap stuff"....Checker/Schucks/Kragen has Shell for .49 again. Guess i'll go stock up on some.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

Quote:

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Those flat tappet failures are by far for hot cams and valves with heavy springs.
For normal street cars with broken in cams/tappets, it isn't a real problem.

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I agree. Really heavy spring pressures and agressive ramp speeds are tough on any non-roller cam. Most cam grinders suggest "breaking in" the cam/lifters with softer springs, then changing back to what is needed for the lift/duration of the cam.