Briggs/Stratton 12.5HP Racing oil?

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Delo 400 Diesel 30 CF/CF2? Conoco HD30 CF/CF2? Turning a 1991 Craftsman 6 speed riding lawn mower into a racer. She has a Well Used 12.5HP Briggs/Stratton that runs like a Champ, will be ran at 100% throttle about 10% of time, mostly 75% throttle(around 4000RPM)(500 more than stock wide open). She does burn a bit at start-up, and did have a bit of wear metals in the oil I dumped, but other wise runs very well. Should I use a Low Ash Diesel 30 weight because of oil burning?(Ash deposits might increase compression, though) 20w-50 Conventional? Mobil 1 15w-50? I have GTX, Quaker State in 30 weights as well.
 
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I have a 1990 Snapper RER with an 8hp Briggs that is probably very similar to yours. A lot of these engines were specd to 3600 rpm but also to run at 4000 rpm for use in generators, so it's not some horrible abuse you are subjecting the engine to. I run mine at 4000 rpm from time to time just cutting the lawn. It is a lot louder at that speed, and no the mower isn't that much faster.

In these splash/mist lubed engines thicker is not really better. I think a HDEO 30 weight oil is a good idea. The engine is going to throw a rod through the block or die of neglect, overheat... etc before wear from the higher speed is going to cause an issue. In the L head engine any compression you gain from carbon deposits would be negated by flow restriction... cleanliness is godliness.
 
Keep in mind that at the stock 3600 rpm the mower went 5 or 5.5mph. With the stock drivetrain you're not going to get much more than a couple MPH. 7200 rpm would be a dream with the stock valvetrain and you'd still only be going 10 mph. It would probably be better to tweak the governor up to 4000~4500 rpm and see what you can do with belts and pulleys. The mower won't be struggling for power (a 125cc dirt bike with much less HP can do 40 mph all day long) just for gearing.
 
Yes, the pulleys are being Reversed, big at engine, with small at trans. 1st gear will now be a bit higher than 6th was, stock. Hopefully 25MPH.
 
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I have never used it, but when I first started researching oil for OPE before I found BITOG I read several sites about go kart oils. There is a oil called Red-E. Look on Red-e.com/

Red-e has a history of providing winning performance in single cylinder 4 cycle racing engines. It is a straight 20 weight that holds up under the demanding temperatures and abuse a single cylinder 4 cycle air cooled brigs puts it thorough.

Users have said that in the demanding applications of go-cart racing many change oil after every race. With Red-e they are able to run it for several races, many run it for an entire day of racing. Red-e being liter than 30 does not load the engine down as much as a 30. And some post said that when they broke the engine down at the end of the summer the parts were still within original specks, though with all the stress on the metal you still should change the piston, wrist pin, and connecting rod.

Along with providing a lite load on the engine because it is a 20 instead of a 30, some posted that they also leave the sump a little low so there is less load on the engine, and even when the sump is low, Red-e holds up.

Check out Red-e.com and see if anyone around you carries it, but you probably will have to order it directly from the manufacturer.

From what I have read, if I were going to run a 4 cycle single cylinder go-kart and I really wanted to win, I would use Red-e.

Check out some of the forums on go-Kart racing. In some of those forums you can read about the success some people have had using Red-e in their 4 cycle go kart engines.
 
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