Anybody here use a micron gauge during a/c work?

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Apr 27, 2010
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Been looking at some videos like ones from Scanner Danner and wonder if it would be of any use. I had multiple instances where I vacuum the system for 15 minutes and then let it rest another 15 minutes and check the gauges to see if they have dropped indicating a leak. No they haven't dropped so I continue the vacuum an hour or two and recharge. Then a week later find the charge has leaked out. Would the micron gauge be helpful in showing a leak too small to detect with the 15 minute rest test?
 
I flush and pressurize the system with 150 psi nitrogen. If the system holds pressure for 24 hours, I release the nitrogen and vacuum the system down to 250 microns. If the system stays below 500 microns for five minutes after I valve off the system and turn off the pump, it's pretty sure it is tight. I then turn on the vacuum pump for another 30 or so minutes to get out any minute amount of moisture before charging the system. Maybe overkill but dealing with a leak after charging the system is additional work and expense.
 
Those gauges will not show a leak in the schrader valves. And is probably where your leak is.
Nylog on the schraders and cap threads supposedly helps.

Ive read that vacuum doesn’t show all causes of leakage, therefore a pressure test is also prudent. I don’t have a micron gauge, or do I have an alternative bone dry gas, so I use HC refrigerant in certain cases. Has worked well for me…
 
I flush and pressurize the system with 150 psi nitrogen. If the system holds pressure for 24 hours, I release the nitrogen and vacuum the system down to 250 microns. If the system stays below 500 microns for five minutes after I valve off the system and turn off the pump, it's pretty sure it is tight. I then turn on the vacuum pump for another 30 or so minutes to get out any minute amount of moisture before charging the system. Maybe overkill but dealing with a leak after charging the system is additional work and expense.
I'll probably get the micron gauge, but after watching this Scanner Danner video, (there is also a part 1 if you want see all of it)



I decided to start with nitrogen testing. Got this Uniweld regulator made in USA off Facebook for $50 and a filled 20 cf tank from a local supply house for $115.

Nitrogen tank.JPG


What pressure should I test too? Like 150 psi? The low side never gets that high so I don't want to blow something there. Any idea how long a 20 cubic foot tank should last? How much volume is there in a system? Maybe less than 1/10th of a cf, multiplied by 10 times atmosphere = 1 cubic foot per test?
 
Like 150 psi? The low side never gets that high so I don't want to blow something there.

When the system is turned off, the low and high equalize at a static pressure, should be equal to the saturation pressure of r134a. That pressure would be about 125-psi on a 100°F day. 150-psi is static pressure at 112°F.

So 150-psi seems pretty reasonable to me.
 
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